2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tips for installing front mag-hytec cover

[MasterLow]

I've tried twice now to remove the drivers side tie rod nut to drop the bar down, so I can install the mag-hytec cover. I've doused it in liquid wrench, tried the pickle for, and have tapped the face of the steering knuckle a bunch, still no go. Any other tips?

 

[Matt42]

I've tried twice now to remove the drivers side tie rod nut to drop the bar down, so I can install the mag-hytec cover. I've doused it in liquid wrench, tried the pickle for, and have tapped the face of the steering knuckle a bunch, still no go. Any other tips?

Try this: Replace the castle nut so you know that the knuckle is tight. Not to torque, but tight. Then back it off one or two turns, NO MORE. One turn is almost always enough. Then reinsert the cotter pin and make sure it is secure. Back the truck out of the driveway and take it for a short drive close to home at low speed, being sure to drive on rough roads, the shoulder, bumps, etc. , and make some sharp turns. In a short time, you should hear or feel a pretty sharp "bonk. " That will indicate that the knuckle will have broken loose. Even without the bonk, it may loosen up things sufficiently. Then very carefully and slowly, take the truck back and finish the job.



When you reassemble, be sure to lightly coat the mating surface with a film of antiseize.



Disclaimer:

I have used this trick to break loose a stuck track bar, and have suggested it to others for a number of stuck front end components. It has always worked. But the key is to drive slowly and carefully!

 

[MasterLow]

I have to tighten the castle nut 100% of the way, and the cotter pin barely fits in the castle nut. If i back it off even one turn, I can't put the cotter pin back in.

 

[Matt42]

Awww, nuts. (No pun intended. ) The reason for putting the cotter pin back in is to prevent the castle nut from falling off and causing an accident. Here's is another possibility, which has worked for me, though not for this front end part. Back the nut off one turn. Start the engine and run the steering wheel through several full turns, left to right. If that does not do it, drive the truck forward and backward slowly in the driveway while also turning the steering wheel.



If that won't work, a specialized kind of puller that looks sort of like a pitman arm puller may be needed. A puller called a pickle fork might work, but might also damage the tie rod end. A two-jaw gear puller might work, but the pivoted jaws are likely to slip off.

 

[SierraRam]

If you smack the knuckle where the tie rod tapered pin is located with a good dead blow hammer the tie rod will drop out. Don't be affraid to give it a healthy wack.

 

[DIESELWRKS]

ditto on the hard blow. enough of these and if will go. did your castle nut not have the cotter pin in it when you first tried removing. good luck

 

[MasterLow]

Yes still has the cotter pin. Every day after work I park it and try it again. I even suspended a cinderblock to it for extra weight to force it off, not even that worked. I'm using a deadblow hammer now for a little extra force, this is driving me nuts!

 

[SierraRam]

If you are hitting the knuckle where the tie rod attaches try a slightly different spot. I have never had an issue getting the tie rods out with this method.