Tips on turbo installation

[lpearson]

Tips on tubo installation

Looks like I will be getting a new turbo shortly. I've searched the forums for details but didn't find any. All I found is that it was pretty simple.



I'll be installing a PDR HX-40, with downpipe and clamp. Haven't got it yet so there may be detailed instructions.



Any tips of do's and don't's?

 

[SOOT]

pre-lube the bearrings before ya put the supply oil line on. other wise it's pretty simple.

 

[Devildog]

You may need to "clock" the intake side of the turbo for proper alienment, loosen the bolt enough to rotate the intake, you can do it out of the truck when you pull the old turbo out and set them side by side, just make the new one the same angle as the old one.

 

[Huff N Puff]

Dont Tighten any bolts all the way

Until you have every thing positioned,snug all the bolts lightly. When everything else is in including the down pipe. Go back and tighten everything. Merv

 

[Jamie Attridge]

I did mine this winter while the truck was in storage.



You will need to trim the downpipe. So bolt the turbo up and get it clocked right by loosening the 6 bolts in the middle of the turbo. Then once its bolted to the manifold you can hook the oil line and the inter-cooler line up. Then you just have to trim the down-pipe to make it fit. Then just make sure before attaching the oil feed line you put a little engine oil into the turbo oil inlet to prelube it so there is no starvation for oil.

 

[rweis]

Know a GOOD welding machine shop near by, have a second mode of transportation to be able to get to the shop.



I thought I had mine all figuered out, asked every supplier "would this fit with that"



Reality: Needed to grind part of a pipe flange to get a turbo flange to fit over it. Need to weld both pieces together. Did you order a new turbo to manifold gasket? Did you order a new oil drain return line gasket? My HY turbo wanted to keep 2 of the mounting studs. Unless you have a stud remover, back to the machine shop.



Measure three times cut once, make that measure rour times ...



You can figuer out anything, and you may get your opportunity. Add 1 day for "adjustments" to total time needed.



BUT I would not swap today for anything. It was PURE enjoyment.



Bob Weis

 

[lpearson]

THANKS

Gee Whiz,

Thanks for all the tips. It's always good to learn from other peoples experiences.



Turbo is slightly used so I will need the gaskets. Clocking- I guess when I get the old one off and look at the new turbo I will understand.



Triming the downpipe this too will be something I will understand more when I remove the old one. I would think that the there wouldn't be that much variance in the engines - but--- I will see.



Thanks again,

Lowell

 

[rweis]

Update of today ATS exhaust swap and KSB1B. Machine shop taped and threaded ATS for 1/8 NPT. This ATS has a LOT of beef to it. Follow directions from ATS. Found that needed to take the spacer bracket off the water lines by the manifold to get the lines under the ATS well. ATS provides a bracket to remount the water bracket. Exhaust gaskets were not too hard to get in. Does the little ridge on the exhaust gasket go toward the engine or toward the manifold?



KSB1B went on next. Needed to clock it, called Kurt, easy when talking to the master. Had to go get a stubby 15mm combo wrench. The nut lower right could not get with socket or long combo wrench. Stubby worked fine. Torque wrench was out of the question.



Rips 4" with Kurts KSB1B flange. Had to grind some of Rip's PDR40/16 flange to get Kurts flange over it. Remember the machine shop?, they welded the two flanges up tight. Put the down pipe on tonight and it hits the firewall blanket at one point. That is tommorrow's project.



Also turned the pipe hanger system into max adaptability. Got the 4" OEM C clamp by the muffler off the factory weld and cleaned up. Cut the rest of the hangers off and shortened them to 2" down and put a J hook on each one. Thought is to use metal perforated strapping on the J hook, around the pipe twice, back up to the J hook on the other side. Will monitor this for a wear point. Anyone see any problems with doing it this way?



Thanks, update tommorrow



Bob Weis

 

[KWIKKURT]

Rweis,



The Rips 4" Down pipe. How far did it come straight back from the old turbo before bending down infront of the firewall?



We have modified almost every other brand of 4" and so far none have touched the firewall. Glad to hear the rest of the install went well. . Kurt



Edit. After rereading your post it sounds like they did not shorten the HX40 down pipe before welding the B-1 flange to it. The B-1 requires a 1" shorter (Overall) Down pipe. Other than that the B-1's, KSB-1's, B-1B's and the KSB-1B's are all a direct bolt in. Kurt

 

[rweis]

Turbo install update - final day



Kurt - I cut about 2" off your flange and was still a little long. I took the distance of the B1 from the flange to the end of the B1, added the distance from Rip's flange to the start of the true 4" diameter, added 1/2" for welding bead and was about 1/2" too long. The downpipe hit the firewall on the 2002 QC. On the QC the firewall has a crease on it right where the downpipe needed to go. I got out my trusty hammer and dented the downpipe by the 1/2" and it fit fine. I figuered that I went from 3" to 4" and 3" is suppose to handle 350 hp, so a 1/2 dent is not going to really matter. The trick was to put the dent EXACTELY where you needed it.



Got the downpipe on (see above) started adding sections of pipe. I used band clamps for the joints and that went very well. You have to cut the section after the first long piece to the muffler, mine was 30 1/2". All sections slid into the mating section easily. The mods to the hangers went well too. Made it easy to hang and very flexable to install. The last section is long enough out to the side you really don't need a tip if you don't want to.



The compressor feed air hose went on fine. Cut the 4 1/2 hole for the Scotty II and cranked her up. A very smooth throaty much deeper sound.



During a test drive I noticed the pre and post turbo temps vary by about 50* consistently. OEM HY were often the same. Which I think means the turbo really is doing work (ie the temp difference). With stock injectors until the B1B gets to about 10 # boost it is a little slow. After 10# it will accelerate right on up there. I knew it would be slow with stock injectors, DD2's install is next.



I am going to figuer out how to get the turbine whine out of the Scotty II hole modification. The whine is fairly significant! (meaning wife will probably not like it), but you can hear the turbine doing it's thing as road conditions change with speed control on.



The only tool I needed I did not have to make sure everything was tight was a stubby 15mm for the back right lower turbo to manifold bolt.



Bob Weis



I'll query about the Scotty II turbine whine on a different thread.

 

[rweis]

I was thinking of a way to say it sucinctly:



Make SURE all parts match and mate.



I have a second downpipe and turbo flange comming because I did not totally understand the differences in the flanges on pipes and turbos. MY MISTAKE, try not to do what I did.



Bob Weis