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Tire regroover and siper

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winter fronts

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Just received my new VanAlstine Tire Regrooving machine and, BOY is it cool! I learned a lot by talking to "Weir" from VanAlstine. What really sold me is that you can regroove recaps! A lot of times, the recaps are actually thicker than the original tread. Since our septic pumping trucks all utilize recaps, this will be a big money/time saver, since I automatically have fresh tires or recaps installed just before winter if tread depth is less than approximately 3/8" (12/32"). Legal limit is 2/32" on rears, but I never let my trucks get that low for safety/traction reasons.

So the magic question is "how deep can you go"? Well, based on my lengthy discussion with VanAlstine, and from what I've read, you want a minimum of 3/32" between cords and the deepest groove you cut. Depending on the tire manufacturer, and if it's been recapped, that means you can go somewhere between 1/32" deeper than stock, or a whopping 24/32"!!!!!



So, I've been practicing. Been picking up casings on the side of the road, (AKA Road Gators) and bringing them back to the shop. I have found that I can safely groove 8/32" (1/4") deeper than stock groove depth out of any recap that I've found, and still have at least 5/32" before hitting steel belts. I can go much deeper and still be safe on some, but I'm really just looking for the shallowest safe depth, and will use that as my mental "do not exceed" depth!



HOWEVER, that has been on the bigger truck tires. I have one casing that I found that seems to be from a 19. 5" tire (maybe even 16 or 17) that I can only go about 5/32" while leaving 5/32" safety margin.



NEXT, I learned another important lesson. DON'T BUY GEOSTAR TIRES!! Those came stock on our '07 NRR Isuzus. They are 19. 5" due to being a 19,500 GVWR truck. They wear funny, and quickly develop a hopping sensation. One tire I was playing with had 8/32" tread depth on most of the tire and BALD on other parts, along the same tread line! So I cut into it to get some practice and found that once I went 4/32" deep, I hit steel belts!! And these tires say "regroovable" on the side. I'm not sure how anybody could regroove them safely, and it isn't really worth the effort to only trim 1/32" deep and still only leave the MINIMUM 3/32" rubber gap. Never heard of Geostars? Me neither. Made in China, of course. The only regrooving I would consider doing to these is to change the pattern for more traction in the winter, since these tires are very highway oriented. If I still have some on the Isuzus this winter, I will probably do that, and probably set the depth of the cutter to be more shallow than the deepest factory groove, to keep them stable too.

I have pictures of what I've done, but I need my wife to download/upload pics from my phone, since I don't have a rat's *** as to how to do it!!



Regarding the Siper, apparently the guy I talked to forgot to include it or charge me for it. I think he spaced it off since we spent so much time discussing the "science" of grooving and siping. That should be here later this week and I will report on it as well. That machine is basically a tool that holds 1 to 13 razor blades, and heats them up so you can pull them across your tire. Depth is adjustable, although he recommends not going more than 3/16" deep and actually recommends only 1/8".
 
Sounds like a huge money saver for someone operating a fleet of larger trucks.



I certainly hope so!!:)

Getting full life out of tires, then out of recaps is the first step. And before, we would have to get our truck to the tire shop, drop off the truck, pick up the driver, then drop off the driver the next day... that could add $250 in labor right there. Although now, our tire guy comes out to our shop and changes out tires when that truck has a day off.

But still, the flexibility and convenience it offers by boosting tread depth/profile just before winter will be great.

Doing the regrooving while on the truck would be the best case, but I still think I'll build a simple rack with rollers on the bottom that I can set the tire in question onto, and roll away as I reprofile. When I'm getting bored of it, I'll just have to remind myself of the $$$ I'm saving. Word is, after a few tires worth of practice, a 22. 5" will take 30-40 minutes. add 10 for siping, and 8 rear tires can be done in a day, easily. I'm not so cool that I'm above saving

$1500. Times 13 trucks...

An idea just struck me. I could build the above rack, but with a slow turning electric motor to roll the tire at a consistent speed for me, so I could just sit in a comfy stool and cut away, hmmmmmm!! And a bracket to hold the groover... and a piña colada!!Oo. Oo. Oo.
 
Siping a normal tire greatly improves wet and winter weather traction. I have a manual siper and sipe most of my LT tires... I have a set that need siped right now speaking of that.
 
I had my tires regrooved this spring.



Front tire design We only regrooved the two center lugs.



#ad




This is look of original tires.



#ad




This is what we ended up with on rear tires.



#ad
 
There is definitely a science to it... not just a matter of digging in. My siper should be here tomorrow so I can play with it, too.

Cumminz, I see you had the four rows separated. Are the grooves also cut along the circumference?
 
what's the siping tool look like???





Mine is not like the OP's, its non-powered. It basically looks like a hand plane for wood working, except it has six utility knife blades that protrude from the bottom. It can take anything from one to six sipes at a time, and anything from zero to 3/8" deep.



It takes about 30 minutes a tire to sipe with my tool if I remember correctly... its meant for racing tires (dirt track), but works fine on street tires.



I will see if I can find it tonight to take a picture...
 
I plan on grooving with air in the tire unless I hear otherwise. Since I won't be even close to the steel belts, and if I even did hit the belts, there is no way to cut them with this tool.
The cheaper units I've seen heat the entire head of the groover. The unit I purchased only heats the blade and is razor sharp. The strips I remove from my practice pieces are warm, not hot, so I don't believe heat is an issue.

Regarding siping: places like Les Schwab and Discount Tire offer siping on new tires for about $10-$12 per tire. I don't like their way of siping, since it just sipes everything without regard to the existing sipes already in the tire, or staying away from the edges of the blocks in the tread. My siper is hand held, and I can sipe where I want, how deep I want, how close the individual sipes will be to each other, and the direction of the sipes.

Another word about Michelins... our newest truck has Michelins on the steer axle, and have the center rib siped from the factory!!! I haven't seen that on any other tire. Oddly, rear axles have Hankook tires from the factory.
 
Regarding siping: places like Les Schwab and Discount Tire offer siping on new tires for about $10-$12 per tire. I don't like their way of siping, since it just sipes everything without regard to the existing sipes already in the tire, or staying away from the edges of the blocks in the tread. My siper is hand held, and I can sipe where I want, how deep I want, how close the individual sipes will be to each other, and the direction of the sipes.







In the siping I've done (by hand), when I first started I was worried about sipe placement, sipe depth, etc. I have found it doesn't seem to make any difference on a street driven tire (other than the appearance)... they don't wear any different, nor do they lose pieces.



I've placed sipes 1/8" apart, I've made them 3/8" deep (on new tires), I've siped just the center, I've siped the entire face, siped at an angle to the face, siped perpendicular to the face, used six sipes per inch, used two sipes per inch, siped edges of tread blocks, etc... it just doesn't seem to negatively affect the tire.
 
Steved, did you sipe across existing sipes? I'm a bit afraid that if the sipes were criss-crossed, they would chunk. Have you experienced that? Was the siping better overall regarding traction in wet or snow? When I've done some practice on some scrap tires and casings, I can't even see the sipes. I can also remove small slivers of rubber, using a v-shaped 1/32" wide blade, also. Those are visible.
 
Across existing sipes, yes. There was no chunking, unless I accidentally cut a piece off.



Sipes are just slits, not really visible; but they allow the tread blocks to flex and provide a biting edge. They really do help wet weather and snow traction. And they seemed to help increase wear... as in the tire lasted longer.



The angle across the tread didn't seem to make a difference.
 
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