Tire rubbing control arms

[Big MAK]

Everything's installed. Skyjacker 2. 5 inch lift/level. KORE Weld Cheyennes. 35x12. 5r18 Nitto Mud Grapplers.



Looks awesome; rides great. At full turn; rubs control arms; have to back off about 1/5 turn. Doesn't seem like enough to be a problem. Apparently these Nittos have a larger and more aggresive tread then the Toyos KORE uses.



Anyone who's lived with that before; is it a problem? Or should I swap to a less aggressive tread while the tire dealer won't smack me too hard to swap them out.



I'll take a much better pic in the daylight:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=16536&width=3

 

[XJSuperman]

Unless it annoys you that much I would leave it be. You won;t really hurt anything... how often are you at full steering lock anyway?

 

[CLAYTON]

Looks Great

Everything's installed. Skyjacker 2. 5 inch lift/level. KORE Weld Cheyennes. 35x12. 5r18 Nitto Mud Grapplers.



Looks awesome; rides great. At full turn; rubs control arms; have to back off about 1/5 turn. Doesn't seem like enough to be a problem. Apparently these Nittos have a larger and more aggresive tread then the Toyos KORE uses.



Anyone who's lived with that before; is it a problem? Or should I swap to a less aggressive tread while the tire dealer won't smack me too hard to swap them out.



I'll take a much better pic in the daylight:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayimage.php?&photoid=16536&width=3

Big Mak your truck looks sweet. Don't change thing!!

 

[rbattelle]

Wow, beautiful truck!! What about getting a couple thin aluminum spacers for the front wheels? I know there are companies out there that make them...



-Ryan

 

[Big MAK]

I'm stewing on the spacer idea; the tire dealer mentioned that too. I think I'll consider it if the rubbing gets on my nerves. So far; it's not a problem. I believe it's best to maintain stock suspension geometry; spacers throw that off. That's the nice thing about KORE wheels. Still the stock bearing loads; etc; even with bigger tires. Just some rubbing with these aggressive treads.



The only time I've rubbed is getting into and out of parking spots. I don't think I'll even have a problem off-road; since my off-roading is hunting and some trail (fire trail); not hardcore rock climbing kind off stuff.



Just wondering if anyone had a horror story about it...

 

[smokejunkie]

That looks damn good How loud is it inside the cab with your stacks?

 

[Big MAK]

ha! How loud is it? Between the stacks; dual turbos; hummin' mudders and rattlin' Cummins it's downright symphonic!!!!!



With the windows up it's musical if you like the sound/s; with the windows down it's loud from the stacks.

 

[bchesley]

Did you add just the coils or the whole skyjacker kit (ie. springs, lower control arms, and rear add a leaf)? How does it ride.



Brad

 

[Big MAK]

Put in the works. I started a new thread with decent pics.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119140

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Wow, beautiful truck!! What about getting a couple thin aluminum spacers for the front wheels? I know there are companies out there that make them...



-Ryan

If you install spacers on the front, you will defeat the perpose of buying the right wheel. You will also start to rub on the fender. I am supprised that it rubs so bad on the control arms. Mine is barely appearant gong to the left. If I go full right lock, it hits pretty good. The problem is that when the wheels are turned to the right. The whole system moves to the left 3/4 of an inch. It has to do with the cycling of the suspension, the track bar, and the tie rods. Plus the steering, in my opinion, is a little better to the right. If you do not like it, go get a 1/4-20 tap, the corresponding drill bit, and a 1/4-20x 1" bolt and a lock nut. drill and tap the steering stop. make sure to drill it deep enough to install the nut and bolt. Use red locktite while installing the bolt so it never comes out. Put the nut on the bolt and install it into the hole you just drilled on the stop. Viola( as Marco says ) No more rubbing.

It is way simpler than it even sounds. Total time is a half and hour. It takes longer to find parts.....



Hope this helps,

Greg

P. S. keep us updated to your fix!!!

 

[rbattelle]

If you do not like it, go get a 1/4-20 tap, the corresponding drill bit, and a 1/4-20x 1" bolt and a lock nut. drill and tap the steering stop. make sure to drill it deep enough to install the nut and bolt. Use red locktite while installing the bolt so it never comes out. Put the nut on the bolt and install it into the hole you just drilled on the stop.

So then the head of the bolt becomes the new stop?



-Ryan

 

[NickSullivan]

Use duct tape next time.

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

Ryan,

Yes the head becomes the new stop. I would use grade 8 bolts. You can probably get away with just the bolt and the locktite. I am not sure if you need more space in between. I haven't checked. I just let them rub a little.....



Greg

 

[R.M.THOMPSON]

Another thing to check is how much deflection is going on while at the steering stop. You can do it yourself,but it requires jumping in & out of the truck alot. The reason I say that is it seemed to be a big deal to me when mine did it the first time with new tires,so I'll try to condense my point. I drove the truck into a corn field(no crop at the time) and moved at a craw speed in a figure "8" pattern until I could just feel the rub starting,then backed off. After establishing a track in the soil,without leaving the track,turned the wheel slowly until it hit the stops. Shut truck down while passenger holds the wheel against the stop and inspected rub area for how much bind is going on(deflection). The result was probally a 1/4 inch on the worst side(can't remember what side now ) Now , here is the other concern,restart truck and bring steering back to the "stops" while moving fast enough through the original track(and corn rows) to cycle the suspension. Listen and feel for any increase in rub. Be sure to check the differance in turning radius also. Mine was next to nothing,foot maybe ,and the rub was not changing enough to worry about. I convinced myself that this is a good way to alert me before my steering gets to lock(bind) as I'm not keen on using the stops as limits on steering when moving anyway ! There is a good way to ease some of your concern and it can prime ya for a couple of 4x4 hole shots. Have fun, Merry Christmas .

Mark T.

 

[Greg Boardman-RIP]

When the suspension cycles, in the compressed or "bumped" position, the wheels move forward almost an inch. That is when there is the least contact with the control arm. I know it sounds funny but I have spent countless hours bumping and drooping this truck. I would comment that doing the added bolt stop is not needed. Just a little rub at full lock. And I have noticed that it is most intense at full lock in reverse. Anyone else?



Thanks,

Greg

 

[R.M.THOMPSON]

As a matter of fact , Yes , I thought it was just the tread lugs on the tires catching the arm at a differant angle (taking a better bite !) ... ... ... ..... With the axle moving forward under compression , I'm assuming it must move rearward during extension/rebound. In any event , my stock suspension did'nt seem to stress itself when cycling or get worse in the rubbing department.