Tired of lift pump woes? This mod WILL fix you up

[Whitmore]

I want to try one more time to let all TDR Buddies know how to fix the OEM lift pump problems, should we installe a pusher? NO IMHO, many many are using this and it does work and deffinatly alot better than the OEM crap set-up... ... ... ... I am not trying to bash the pusher but IMHO it is only second best.

Please take a look at this if you want alot less trouble with your fuel system



... ... . back up a minute and think outside of the box, I did this and it works well and it will help your OEM lift so it wont have to work as hard, prolly get much better life from it too.

Get a in-bed auxillary tank and all the accessories for your aux tank, IE; level gage, supply port, return port and one more port if possible but not manditory, now use an 8 AN fitting and get a SS braided line to feed your oem lift pump , leave the lift in its original location, then take the return line from the VP and install it to the return port, wire in a level gage to the cab so you can monitor level at all times, OK now buy a small frame mount pump from the local auto store and mount it on the frame by the OEM tank port , hook it up so you can transfer fuel from OEM tank to new Aux tank, If you have no port available for this you can "T" into the return line from the VP. One more step to help out would be to do a SS 8AN line from OEM lift pump to the VP 44... ... ... ... ... ... DUDE you will never be sorry for this bomb... ... ... ... . Kevin



P. S. I cant understand that with all the OEM lift pump problems why others dont do this mod, think of it ... ... ..... with this mod the lift will have Possitive head pressure instead of a Vaccumn In other words why keep trying to make a fuel system work that was doomed before the first one was built!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Please please get away from the OEM set-up it is crap , Remember one thing ... ... ... ... If you polish a turd ... ... ... ..... it is STILL a polished turd... ... ... ... ... Kevin

 

[Hammer]

Ok,I am now offically confused........

Kevin... .

With all due respect to you and your backyard wizardry here,why do it this way???. First off,most guys who are looking to assist their lift pumps do not want to sacrifice bed space for a unwanted fuel tank and do something that is not cost efficent. Basically what you have done is to reverse engineer the already built and established Transfer Flow system for these trucks.



A good electric fuel pump to assist the one currently used as stock is all thats needed to relieve pressure and work overload on the stocker. Its always been widely known that a electric fuel pump is better pushing the fuel rather than pulling it. The only thing I'd do different than most guys who are installing a pusher pump to assist their stock pump is to put it on a remote switch seperate from the factory system. It can be used when needed or easily turned off in the event of a emergency.



The addition of the SS #8 braided lines are certainly nice for looks but serve no purpose other than that. There is a well known member here who has plumbed his complete 24valve truck in hopes of making the system more efficent and gaining some power and if you'd ever ask him he will tell you as he did alot of us all he gained in dyno HP was 2 and used alot of money to do it. Cost efficent,NOT. Your truck though... ..... Andy

 

[illflem]

Kevin, what happens if I want to haul a camper?

 

[Whitmore]

True true true

Bed space is a huge consideration, thats why I got the long box in the first place, I opted to go this route for the extra fuel capicity, and for the head pressure of the set-up Its always been widely known that a electric fuel pump is better pushing the fuel rather than pulling it. with the head tank positive flow you gain sugnifently in that itself, like Bill says the Bed tank aint for all but for those who have the aux tank already in place this bomb to me is a no brainer... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... also the 8 an lines are bigger then the oem units and simply help to give adequate supply so the pump doesnt have to pull fuel butinstead it is fead a supply... ... ... ... ... I think the pump is now relieved by 2 to 3 times the work load... ... ... ... ... ... ... . respects, Kevin

 

[MUDDY]

great idea. also with the higher capacity of many aux tanks, the more fuel, the cooler the fuel will be

 

[WDaniels]

Ok, enlighten me. What is wrong with cool fuel? If cool fuel is not kosher, what about fuel that is colder than the wife when she discovers the visa with all the bomb charges on it?

WD

 

[Shooter]

My aux tank fuel pu and returns are on the top of the tank as is the oem tank. How do you get a head pressure when you are still sucking fuel out of the top of the aux. If you are relying on a siphon from the aux tank then what about the siphon from the first 1/2 or 3/4 of the oem tank ????



If your aux tank suppy is from the bottom drain fitting then you are going to be in deep doo doo if/ when you have a leak or need to break a fuel line fitting or change a filter.



JMHO

 

[Whitmore]

Shooter

I did use the bottom drain port as a feed, I put a ball valve in for isolation if needed, then to a 10 micron spin on filter then to the lift, works great, before I hooked it to the lift I put a gage on the end of the line and showed 2. 5 pounds of head pressure... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ..... helped the pump tremendously, pump sounds like it is purring instead of sucking

 

[Chipstien]

I just moved my lift pump to the outer frame rail directly beside the sender so I have only 10 inches of hose to the pump. Didn't cost a plug nickel and has been rock solid reliable since. 16 psi idle, 13 psi cruise.

 

[duaneparks]

Originally posted by Shooter

If your aux tank suppy is from the bottom drain fitting then you are going to be in deep doo doo if/ when you have a leak or need to break a fuel line fitting or change a filter.



JMHO

I have a QC SB, so this mod is not for me (uses up too much bed), but I would think that even if you had a bottom drain fitting that a simple in-line valve could manually shut off flow for filter changes. In the case of a leak, yes, that could be a problem, but it's one that would need to be fixed quickly anyway.



Me, I'm gonna move my lift pump to the frame rail down by the sending unit and make sure it's drawing from the bottom of the stock tank.



Duane

 

[WadePatton]

Originally posted by WDaniels

Ok, enlighten me. What is wrong with cool fuel?

WD

Cool fuel is GOOD, as is cool AIR. The cooler these two things are the more molecules (density) there is in the combustion charge=more energy.



Cold fuel can be a problem with gelling, that's all. That's why the OEM LP is at the block and there's a fuel heater at the filter.



Not a big issue here in Dixie, but I run additives for cetane/lube anyway.