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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Tired of replacing ball joints!!!!

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Need Old Track bar

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission power seat problem

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Guinea pig volunteers?

That's nearly twice the cost of Moogs through Rockauto, but maybe they are more than twice the balljoint. . ? :confused:



Someone here needs to try them... I'm willing if my bank account is.
 
I will definitely look into them. See what the price to rebuild them is warranty etc... Next time I do them. If I don't forget by them. The mind is a terrible thing... What am I talking about? Who are you... .
 
ha HA HA HA , I LIKE THOSE THOUGHTS" when you have a 3/4 ton truck(not a pick-up) a TRUCK,which is what i call my cummins ram with a 100 gallon fuel tank in the pan and a welder and a skidder tire on a trailer behind it, you couldn`t care less about the ride, if i could snap my fingers and have leaf springs all round i`d be a happy trucker.

When i want a ride i`ll get in my wifes car!!! we have spent enough money on our 8 dodge ram cummins trucks that we could buy a new toyota for sure. saddly though 95% off it was on the front ends. the only reason i don`t get ride of mine is that old masculine lunkin cummins,i love to hear her rattle ha ha ha ha the wife however don`t get the rush at all. thanks
 
The lower set of ball joints I bought from quad 4x4 had a fomoco part # on them. The upper ball joints did not have a # stamped in them.



Casey
 
Grease

Some consider it a dirty word!

Some won’t consider grease-able u-joints or suspension pieces because of the mess it makes on the chassis. Some claim sealed units last longer. Arizona, Texas, California maybe, but who knows? But not where I live in the NE with lots of rain, snow & salt.

Hot & cold temperatures have a tendency for ball-joints & u-joints to suck in moisture.

Anyone who is old enough to have worked on or remember the (OLD) vehicles knows that every pivot point, bushing, cable or rod end had a grease fitting.

For this conversation let’s use my 1990 W250 as an example.

All u-joints, tie rods and ball-joints (kingpins) are greasable.

I have accumulated approx 250k on my 1990 which was purchased new and was recently sent to the salvage yard minus all driveline and interior components. It was a bit emotional for me, it brought a tear to my eyes, and she never disappointed me.

The point is I have replaced only 2 tie-rod ends in that time and that was because I blew the cap off the tie-rod while trying to force grease into it while (frozen) in the middle of winter.

We make a huge deal of which diesel oil to use but I never see discussions of greases.

All greases are not the same!

In my experience I found that grease containing Moly has worked well for me in all applications.

The rear u-joints have never been replaced and are still in service in my newer 1990 which was originally an auto but converted to a manual. Total mileage on them approaches 350k.

She was never babied. I’ve towed in excess of 22,500 in the hills of western Ma.

Grease won’t cure a poor design or lack of maintaince but it can make a difference.

When my truck was new the steering would not return back to center on it’s own after a turn. I was considering wedges to increase caster but then started looking at greases. I found that Mobil made grease for industrial machinery with Moly that claimed to reduce steering effort on heavy equipment, so I bought a case.

I changed the grease in my gun purged it of the Super Blue that was in it and greased away.

I took her for a 3 or 4 mile drive and by the time I returned the steering was returning to center on its own.

Consider this, Carli makes (expensive) ball-joints for Dodge and supplies Red Line synthetic grease.

Sorry for the long post. I have never been able to keep it short & sweet, just ask my son when I get on a rant!
 
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