To fix injector pump or buy another?

[Federico]

Ok...Need some opinions as to what to do..I have a 93 Dodge with the 5.9 Cummins, the injector pump went out...metal bits out the fuel line bowl etc..the question is Is it worth to replace the injector pump or better buying another one for around 4-6 grand with less miles...

Mine has over 320 thou and body is rough but it hauls my 12000 pound Fifth wheel and gets 23-25 by itself on the freeway when empty so love that mileage...body is rough but has been a tremendous truck other then the injector pump going out...Thinking of changing it myself...is it Really hard or so-so? I did the killer dowel pin by myself and change all the fluids as well but I am no mechanic for sure.

It drives like a tank but I love my truck..had to buy a 94 ford with the 460 gas and the MPG is killing me pulling my trailer it gets about 6-7, the cummins gets 13-14 pulling the same thing!

Along the same line anyone have experience with the different companies that sell the injector pumps...one in florida is the cheapest but has GOT HORRIBLE reviews...most I've seen are around $1200 with the larger fuel pin and 3200 RPM spring (will the fuel/spring combo decrease MPG?)

Any help or comments are greatly appreciated
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[Steve Graham]

The guts on my 4 cyl VE pump were trashed too, cost me $1500 and that included a reman distributor head. Find a authorized Bosch injection shop and have them rebuild yours, you'll be money ahead over buying a "new" one. Get the part number for the 3200 gov spring and they should put in in no question ask.

 

[Federico]

I agree and today found a company out of Tennessee that will rebuild mine for $495 or with ALL new parts inside (I told them metal was washing out) for $900 including the 3200 spring and upgrade fuel pin with only the $95 cost of the parts for spring and fuel pin and no charge for upgrading since they are rebuilding it anyways..They had 4 stars overall...most of their issues seemed to be in failing injectors they were selling not thee pumps themselves...did you install it yourself Steve or have someone do it?

 

[Steve Graham]

I had the shop do all the internal pump work including installing the 3200 gov spring. I did the R&R on the pump and injectors. The shop also rebuilt the injectors at the same time.

 

[Federico]

I had the shop do all the internal pump work including installing the 3200 gov spring. I did the R&R on the pump and injectors. The shop also rebuilt the injectors at the same time.

wasthe removal and re-install pretty easy/ Or not?

 

[Steve Graham]

In hindsight it was fairly straight forward. When I started this I'd never pulled IP. so the task was a little bit intimidating. Theres a lot of info out there, got a lot of it from the Dodge factory service manual! Most important item is turn the engine to TDC #1 before you start to pull the IP. Then set the lock on the IP and you half way there, kind of. If you can't figure something out, Ask!

 

[Federico]

Yeah they all say to out it in TDC but how does one do that?

 

[Steve Graham]

Federico, what is your experience working on the 6B, Do you do your own engine maintenance? You really need a factory service manual, for me to try and walk you through setting TDC and locking the IP is more than I can do on the forum. Tips and tricks on working on the 6B that I have. There are companies that sell a FSM on CD, take a look at the IP R&R and see if your up to it.
PM me and I can give you more detailed info.
I'm not sure of the forums rules on displaying links to other companies on line.

 

[ofelas]

I bought a brand new 6BT VE injection pump from DieselTuff; he is user name "nascar mark" on here.

No core required & it can be had in various configurations, from stock to performance.

 

[nascar mark]

No need to put engine at TDC when removing or installing a VE pump unless you are anal about having your timing “exactly” to stock spec’s....and who wants to be running stock timing ?. As a matter of fact if you remove or install the pump at TDC you run a good chance of dropping the key either in the gear case or on the ground/frame. Read more than my share of people doing that.
Instead I prefer to put the inj pump gear keyway at 2 o'clock when looking from front of engine service hole & unn-pin the inj pump, turn shaft of pump to line up with 2 o’clock keyway of gear & install. Adjust timing mark of pump to say 1/8” above gear housing mark & see how you like it. This way you run no risk of dropping the key out of inj pump & much easier to see to line up installing.
If you don’t like your timing, 5 min easy job to bump it up or down from there.

 

[nascar mark]

And thanks Ofelas for the kind words.

 

[Federico]

In hindsight it was fairly straight forward. When I started this I'd never pulled IP. so the task was a little bit intimidating. Theres a lot of info out there, got a lot of it from the Dodge factory service manual! Most important item is turn the engine to TDC #1 before you start to pull the IP. Then set the lock on the IP and you half way there, kind of. If you can't figure something out, Ask!

Hey Steve...finally getting around to doing the IP, ordered the manual per your suggestions but it is not here yet..so my question is when I turn the engine over with the Barring tool does the little pin fall into the hole when it finds it automatically or do I have to push it in or something?

How did the truck run after the new IP? did you do the fuel pin and 3200 spring? any more power up them hills lol

I see you are also in South AZ I'm in Salome just off I 10, where you at?

 

[EDankievitch]

Pull your number 1 and number 6 valve covers. Barr the engine over if the rockers are both moving on cylinder 1 you need to turn the crank another full turn. If the rockers are both moving on number 6 then you are close to top dead center on number 1. If you watch number 6 exhaust valve closing just before the intake moves you, 1) slow down your barring speed to a crawl. 2) apply some pressure to pushing in the plastic timing pin by the injection pump. as you get close you will feel it drop into the hole in the gear. go slow when barring or you can break off the pin. It's not hard. helps to have a helper. then follow the manual. After the new pump is installed make sure none of the fuel lines, both low pressure supply and high pressure are not in contact with each other. I had one wear through from close contact way back when I did the pump on my 89.
Work slow take pics with your phone before you remove things. It'll help when re installing where that "domathingy" or the "What the Hell is this" part goes that you end up with extra parts at the end of the job.

 

[Federico]

Pull your number 1 and number 6 valve covers. Barr the engine over if the rockers are both moving on cylinder 1 you need to turn the crank another full turn. If the rockers are both moving on number 6 then you are close to top dead center on number 1. If you watch number 6 exhaust valve closing just before the intake moves you, 1) slow down your barring speed to a crawl. 2) apply some pressure to pushing in the plastic timing pin by the injection pump. as you get close you will feel it drop into the hole in the gear. go slow when barring or you can break off the pin. It's not hard. helps to have a helper. then follow the manual. After the new pump is installed make sure none of the fuel lines, both low pressure supply and high pressure are not in contact with each other. I had one wear through from close contact way back when I did the pump on my 89.
Work slow take pics with your phone before you remove things. It'll help when re installing where that "domathingy" or the "What the Hell is this" part goes that you end up with extra parts at the end of the job.

Thanks for the comment very helpful! The #1 is the very front one and the #6 the very back one right? Not like the firing order on a car Lol

 

[ofelas]

http://www.dieseltuff.com/instruction---tips.html

Probably the easiest instructions to follow on 12v adjustment/maintenance.

You'll find the valve lash instructions halfway down the page.

 

[Steve Graham]

Hey Steve...finally getting around to doing the IP, ordered the manual per your suggestions but it is not here yet..so my question is when I turn the engine over with the Barring tool does the little pin fall into the hole when it finds it automatically or do I have to push it in or something?
How did the truck run after the new IP? did you do the fuel pin and 3200 spring? any more power up them hills lol
I see you are also in South AZ I'm in Salome just off I 10, where you at?

You have to push to the pin in as the timing hole travels past, so go slow. Really takes 2 to do it right.
The Scout needed the extra rpm that the 3200 spring offered when shifting, theres a small gap between 3rd and 4th on the NV4500.
I did the Denny T's #1 fuel pin. It works pretty good.
I'm in Willcox on the north side of I 10.

 

[Federico]

You have to push to the pin in as the timing hole travels past, so go slow. Really takes 2 to do it right.
The Scout needed the extra rpm that the 3200 spring offered when shifting, theres a small gap between 3rd and 4th on the NV4500.
I did the Denny T's #1 fuel pin. It works pretty good.
I'm in Willcox on the north side of I 10.

I got most of it off but that nut in the lower back is proving to be a bear..got t mostly off but cannot seem to get the last 2-3 turns, messed with it for 2 hours finally went in for the night! :-( did you have some special technique to get it off AND to put back on?

 

[Steve Graham]

I got most of it off but that nut in the lower back is proving to be a bear..got t mostly off but cannot seem to get the last 2-3 turns, messed with it for 2 hours finally went in for the night! :-( did you have some special technique to get it off AND to put back on?

I'm assuming your talking about the bottom nut on the injection pump?
On the 4B in my Scout I remove the 2 bolts holding the power steering pump on and let in hang to get it out of the way.
Granted I don't have the vacuum pump attached in front of the PS pump, but have not had to pull the vacuum/PS pump unit off any of my 6Bs