To Seize or Not To Seize and Other Questions

[RUSSELL5000]

I am about to re-assemble my rear trailing arm/brake backing plate/wheel hub and bearing assembly as part of my 2008 Jeep Patriot overhaul.

1. I am planning to put anti-seize between each mating surface. Good idea? Bad idea? Where else should I consider use of anti-seize? Should I use anti-seize on all of the suspension component bolts passing through a bushing?

1. I was planning to reuse the bolts that hold the wheel hub to the trailing arm. They appear very sloid and the head of the bolts were the least rusted of all the bolts on the rear suspension area. I was going to wire brush the bolts well. Think this is OK?

1. I am planning to put BLUE Permatex threadlocker on the bolts that hold the wheel hub to the trailing arm. I believe I want BLUE and not RED. Correct?

1. Is there anything I can use on the threaded ends of the bolts on suspension components to keep them from rusting so bad? Should I use threadlocker on these bolts?

Thanks!

 

[Wayne M.]

Anywhere you use loctite on chassis, blue is fine. On bolts passing through backed up by lock nuts, I'd use anti on the shank of the bolt, not the threads. Dry threads. Bolts into housings/ castings like hub bearings, universal joint strap etc, I'd use loctite, no anti.

 

[JR]

I know I've said it other places recently but make sure you know what the manufacturer of antiseize you use recommends for torque recalcs. I personally use Chesterton 725 Nickel for a few reasons, mainly due to the resistance to water wash off, excellent viscosity retention regardless of temps, and balanced coefficient of friction meaning zero torque recalcs. Some brands of copper based seize can vary by as much as 30% so it's imperative you know what you have.

 

[RUSSELL5000]

Thanks, JR. I'll check the label.