Toasted Turbo

[CLiberty]

I am finally getting around to installing my BHAF and Old Smoky mount. Good thing I did, meethinks my turbo is quite done. I saw what appears to be signs that the inducer wheel(?) is hitting the housing. There is no material removed from the housing(yet) but there is a good mark where the carbon has been rubbed away (see pics) and there is about 1/8in of lateral play in the shaft. I am deffering to the experts here,whatta ya`ll think?Looks pretty ugly to me. Second question is, assuming it needs rebuilding/replacing what unit would be a good replacement? I was thinking of sending it to HighTech and having them do a stage 3 on it... opinions PLEASEEEE!!!!https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=19351&width=1

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=19350&width=1

 

[JLEONARD]

Yes... do a stage III. You will like it alot. But remove the ex housing before you ship it... no sense paying for that to travel to Utah.

Plus it will give you a couple of days to port it



IF you need a temporary stocker to keep you running you can drive to NW Ct and borrow one.

 

[bgilbert]

Doesn't look bad to me. Lateral thats side to side for us truck drivers yes? 1/8" side to side is ok, I've tugged on turbos on brand new motors and they moved that much, I think, I could be wrong. But if you have in/out, fore aft maybe, someone else step in that one, then you got a problem. Got any junkyards near ya? Find a nice 'bigger' turbo for upgrade.

 

[BushWakr - RIP]

Bill I'm going to differ a bit on this one... . a new turbo should have literally zero side to side... and I believe that 1/8" is not recommended (this is assuming the turbo is "oil primed" when the inspection is done).

Yes, the side to side is not as critical as the 'to and fro' but it is still not a good thing.

The biggest issue for "servicability is whether or not the blade is making contac with the inside of the housing. . obviously that is not a good thing. If it is getting close to doing so, you are on borrowed time, at least in my opinion.

That side to side play will eventually result in "downstream" damage/wear and that is not something you want to have happen when you're under boost on a hill or highway.



just a thought here... .



pb... .

 

[DieselBuzz]

Has anyone been brave (or thrifty) enough to find a kit and do it themselves?

 

[smithy]

from your pictures the turbo looks ok ,whats your boost psi? side to side play is normal as long as there is no metal to metal contact,there's bushings in a turbo not bearings,there is no rebuild kit,its all replace,new cart, old cleaned housings= rebuilt,new is new=$, in and out play is not good, thats how its done in the south, good luck,

 

[JLEONARD]

anyone been brave (or thrifty) enough to find a kit and do it themselves?

I bought and still have a kit. . cost me about $85. I was going to rebuild mine a couple of years ago, but when I took it apart it was beyond repair. I have used kits in the past on a couple of other turbos (Holset 3LD and a Rotomaster) and it's not that hard to do. I never balanced them and they seemed to work fine, but balancing is a whole nuther debate.

Jay

 

[CLiberty]

Thanks for all the help/suggestions! I`m going to send it out to HTT and have a stage4 62mm wheel installed, and have them re-bush and balance it. I`ll let you all know how it turns out. Oh, I WILL be getting a cooldown timer as well, this way I won`t be tempted to kill the engine with the pyro still @ 450-500f just because I`m in a hurry... . I know my bad.