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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Too hot for towing...

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Drum, BAD Squeal

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2001 HO 6spd. 3. 55 gears

Edge drag comp

Mach1 EDM 3. 4s

Super B turbo

BHAF air filter

4" downpipe straight to 6" stack



Dyno 450rwhp 1025rwtq



Weight ~8k lbs.

When pulling ~8k lb. trailer for instance... it gets way hot on EGTs - way quick. I'm tired of fighting it... it's been a super fast fun ride the last 5 years. :cool:

I want to make sure there's nothing else I can do before I back the injectors off a few sizes down to a Mach 1. 6 or so...



Thanks,

Josh
 
Those are aggresive injectors. If you have already checked to be sure your radiator is clean front and back, the next step is to realize some times you have to back off the loud pedal.
 
That's the conundrum with high HP single turbo trucks. Lotsa power on the dyno, but it isn't very usable or friendly when you try to work 'em. Towing twins would probably fix those egts though.



I just finished up taking the other path last night. I'm down from 465hp/930tq to whatever you get with 275s, a stock turbo, and an untapped Comp. I'm sure there will be times that I miss having the tires light up in fourth *sniff*, but now I'll be able to pull anything with any amount of throttle without egts being a concern at all. It was fun while it lasted...
 
Thanks for your input guys - yes I realize you can't always have your cake and eat it too. I knew that going into the medium/agressive sticks way back in the day. I always assumed I'd add water injection, larger intercooler, and eventually twins... but I don't see that happening any time soon. Prior to the drag comp and the EDM 3. 4s... I ran the 275hp bosch rv injectors with an Edge EZ. I LOVED that combination... I once pulled another dodge diesel like mine on my 2500lb. flatbed trailer up Big Walker Mountain @ 95mph and couldn't hit 1300 deg F pre-turbo... Flat to the floor with no worries. :-laf



Long live the five niner...



Josh
 
I think you just answered your own question!!!



I wouldn't have started this post (maybe some of you will get a laugh out of this)... but I became slightly confused after I called a reputable dealer to order injectors the other day - and after answering all the questions about my setup - was told I could possibly cure my heat problem by running my drag comp on setting 5 vs. setting 1 or completely off - that it sounded like I was running too lean and needed more fuel. :eek:
 
Uh, yeah, sure. I can sorta see that logic on the drag strip, but towing, notsomuch...

My friend has the Super B on his truck, and I know what you mean about being a touch "saggy" off the bottom and egts whipping up pretty quickly before the turbo lights off. Have you thought about changing the 14cm housing on the Super B to a 12cm? You'll possibly loose a touch of power on the top and gain a bit of egt at full throttle, but it'll move the useful range of the turbo down a couple hundred rpms and get it making air where you need it.

And I say possibly gain some egts on top, because I know of a fellow that was around 430hp who had his full-throttle egts drop when he went from a 14cm to a 12cm. For him it was a win-win. That smaller Schwitzer flows more than most folks think.
 
PC12 - I see where your going... where can I get a smaller exh. housing to try? Will it still bolt up to the 4" downpipe?

I will say this - If I could legally run 80+ mph everywhere I went - we probably wouldn't be having this conversation. Once I'm moving that fast I'm turning enough rpm 2200+ that i'm making enough boost/and or moving enough air - I can keep it under 1300 towing heavy.

I guess if I had 4. 11 gears I might not be contemplating this drop in injector size either?!?! haha

It's the 60/65mph range that gets me - not enough boost/air yet... gets hot quick. I can only use about 1/4" of my pedal - anything more drives the temps up quick.....



Anywho... thanks again for everyones comments/suggestions. This forum is/has always been ever so helpful.



Josh
 
I can't answer what you need to do but how much boost are you running when under load? My truck seemed to have the same problem when I was towing 20K down I75 and I 40 through the mountains. I tried dropping down to 4th gear and the egts still climbed up to 1200+. I got ****** and dropped the hammer and as soon as the boost hit 30 psi, egts dropped down to 900 to 1000 and away I went. The old girl ran up every grade that I 75 and I 40 had, topping all of them doing at least 75mph in 5th gear. The really funny part was it was my last moving trip from Michigan to South Carolina and the truck hit 200K miles. I also noticed that my truck no longer dropped any oil from the crankcase vent tube ( the bottle was missing when I bought the truck) when it was parked and has yet to leak since then. So my best guess is that the rings finally seated in @ 200,000 because of the recent heavy loads during my move.

SO. . maybe you are not letting the turbo build enough boost or you have some restriction/leak somewhere in your air supply.
 
PC12 - I see where your going... where can I get a smaller exh. housing to try? Will it still bolt up to the 4" downpipe?

I will say this - If I could legally run 80+ mph everywhere I went - we probably wouldn't be having this conversation. Once I'm moving that fast I'm turning enough rpm 2200+ that i'm making enough boost/and or moving enough air - I can keep it under 1300 towing heavy.

I guess if I had 4. 11 gears I might not be contemplating this drop in injector size either?!?! haha

It's the 60/65mph range that gets me - not enough boost/air yet... gets hot quick. I can only use about 1/4" of my pedal - anything more drives the temps up quick.....



You're excactly where I was at. For my HTB2/12 the magic number was 2000 rpm (which shows how much drive energy that 14 is letting past - your SB/14 should be at a number less than that). So 65mph was right on the bubble between having egts under control or running wild.



I'm pretty sure High Tech Turbo can hook you up with the 12cm housing. It'll bolt right up to your downpipe.



I'll also put a nod in for a cam, but those only really help once the turbo is doing its work. As in run a turbo on the small side of what you think you might need so you'll get the lower-rpm boost, but then use the cam to take the peak egts down a bit. For example, with 100hp injectors, an untapped Comp, and a stock turbo, I couldn't reach 1250* pre-turbo. In my current state of 275s, untapped Comp, and stock turbo, I haven't cracked 1100* (killer low end torque though). With the HTB2/12 and the Comp tapped (465hp), I'd still barely touch 1350*. A cam is a great addition, but you'd have to get your turbo sized right for where you want your power first.
 
If you find yourself still wanting to cool down your injectors, I have a newer set of Mach 1. 6's I purchased new from Bob Wagner I'd be interested in trading you. They probably dont have 20k on them.

I'm going to bite the bullet & throw some twins @ my truck, so larger injectors are back in order.



Let me know,



Thanks----Proflow
 
Edge runs too much timing. Got rid of mine and went to the smarty; still have the power but dropped 200* EGT under same towing conditions. Not to mention Big injectors + single turbo=Hot EGT's!
 
There comes a point in power adding where you have to make a decision, race or tow.

1st step as noted earlier, what RPM's are you running? That engine will run all day at redline under heavy load with no complaints. Typically 2100 - 2300 RPM is the best zone to be in (at least in my truck - where my HP and TQ curves meet). When in doubt, downshift.

Water/Meth injection gives you the most bang for the buck. Lower EGT's, more boost, More HP&TQ. Takes a bit of trial and error to get the right combination of nozzles, water/meth ratio, and on/off points set but well worth the effort. Nothing like watching the EGT's drop 200 - 250* while climbing a hill when it turns on.

My truck with the Edge Comp runs cooler on 1x1 than with it off. Not sure what tweaks the Drag Comp has on the low end.

Twins would be a good step to take. More expensive than a cam, but a helluva lot less labor involved. Source Automotive sells partial kits to incorporate your existing turbo at a real good price.

Agreed, with the checking the radiator (outer edge on the engine side, dead center on the intercooler side) to make sure it is clean, and make sure your fan clutch is good. I know your EGT's are an issue here, but every little bit helps.

EDITED TO ADD - Now that I see how old this thread is, what did you end up doing?
 
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