Too Much Idling?

[JBonpua]

How much idling is too much at one time to hurt the mighty CTD? There are times when my family stays in the truck with the AC running and I run to the store to buy something. Is 10 minutes too long? Also, I have bought the grounding pin from Cummins to ground pin #22. Where exactly is this harness located (pictures would help)? Once I get it installed, how high should I idle the truck when running the AC? I would appreciate any info.

 

[JFaughn]

Its more of an accumulated affect for short idle's like that , a lot of soot & coke build up .
A high idle should be about 1,200 RPM .
The pin thing I could not tell ya .

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

You can idle for hours in hot weather and not hurt it a bit. Letting it idle to warm up in cold weather after starting it in the morning is a different story. . . that can be a problem if you make it a routine to idle more than a couple minutes each time.

 

[JBonpua]

You can idle for hours in hot weather and not hurt it a bit. Letting it idle to warm up in cold weather after starting it in the morning is a different story. . . that can be a problem if you make it a routine to idle more than a couple minutes each time.

I never idle in the winter as I drive immediately after starting the CTD. I’ve only been doing it when it gets hot enough to run the AC to keep the 7 month old comfy but not over 10-15 minutes at a time. I’ve also read somewhere that should you ever a warranty done for say an injector problem and the dealer checks your computer and it records excessive idling (I would like to know what excessive to DC is), they can deny warranty. My question is at what RPM will the computer not record as idling?

 

[pservano]

I have a 2006 Mega Cab 3500 auto. My high idle control was inable from the dealer... I can increase the idle to 1200 - 1600 RPM using the cruise control. Did you ask the dealer if this feature is available for a manual transmission?

 

[JBonpua]

I have a 2006 Mega Cab 3500 auto. My high idle control was inable from the dealer... I can increase the idle to 1200 - 1600 RPM using the cruise control. Did you ask the dealer if this feature is available for a manual transmission?

I believe it is built in the ECM programing for both auto and manual. However from what I understand for a manual one must either get the clutch switch which is a little pricey or ground pin #22 on the ECM. I am just not sure where this harness is located.

 

[JasonCzerak]

Hot vs Cold (outside temp) idling. So this would be an EGT issue.

In 0 degree temps, after warmed up, and the heat half way between the red and blue and blower on low (to maintain temp). Once the truck goes into it's automatic high idle of 1000rpm the EGT stick around 280-300-ish with the A/C condenser kicking on every so often

95 degrees, no A/C on, the EGT's will get to 280 with in 10 minutes. However, you crank on the A/C, your at 350-ish EGT all the time.

So, I ask, what does the outside temps have to do with anything?

As far as a cold start in below freezing temps go, 1 or 2 minutes should be mandatory before moving. Let that oil warm up!!!

 

[JFaughn]

Jason any more new mods yet , I got a few .

 

[JasonCzerak]

Jason any more new mods yet , I got a few .

Nothing yet. I did bring back my stereo from my old jeep. ...

 

[ENafziger]

See if this works...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...179687-high-idle-6-speed-jumper-question.html

--Eric

 

[jjack]

I believe it is built in the ECM programing for both auto and manual. However from what I understand for a manual one must either get the clutch switch which is a little pricey or ground pin #22 on the ECM. I am just not sure where this harness is located.

The connector you are looking for is on the drivers side in the engine bay. If you look in from the top you will see 2 sets of connectors that plug into the engine control modules. The large rear most connectors is what you are after. Unscrew the allen head bolt located in the middle of the connector and pull the connector from the unit. starting on the top row and moving to the right count 22 pins. I think it is 2nd over from the left on the 4th row down. Take a paper clip and straighten out and push the dummy plug out of the connector from front to back. Push your connector in until you hear it click ( I have done several and some go in really easy and some are a little more difficult as the wire will want to bend before it gets in all the way) but you will not be able to pull it out once it is correct. Then hook everything back up and ground it to the bolt that holds the ecm to the block. All done except enabling the feature. Buy a Smarty and it will enable it for you or borrow a buddies.

 

[CDonaldson]

The numbers recorded by your ECM regarding idling are a bit skewed. Every time you drive up a hill and back off the throttle going down in essence coasting down the other side, that non-throttle activity is seen/recorded as an idle by the ECM. This is a very valid argument over their claims about too many idle hours. Once they know you know about this, you have overcome the battle about high idle hours on the engine. Until they find a way to also record speed simultaneously with this non-throttle all you rolling un-throttled time is recorded as idle.



I have the #22 jumper to ground on my standard transmission truck, it works excellently. You do not need the clutch switch just the high idle enabled. It was already enabled when I bought my truck, I put in the jumper and it worked.



CD

 

[JHardwick]

I idle my truck 6-7 hours at a time, and probably a total of 10-12 hours per day.



I once left for a 10 day trip in the dead of winter, and never shut the truck down until I returned home.



I'm almost as bad in the summer, depending on how hot it is.

 

[JasonCzerak]

I idle my truck 6-7 hours at a time, and probably a total of 10-12 hours per day.



I once left for a 10 day trip in the dead of winter, and never shut the truck down until I returned home.



I'm almost as bad in the summer, depending on how hot it is.

How much fuel did you burn in that 10 days?



I did do a 52 hour run from MSP to some place two hours west of Denver once. Truck idled 1/2 that time while at rest stops, the location to pick up the car, food, It was kinda cold out too for the most part.

 

[SSalzer]

JHARDWICK-uhm... ... . why would you do that?

 

[AKaiser]

As far as a cold start in below freezing temps go, 1 or 2 minutes should be mandatory before moving. Let that oil warm up!!!

Why??? You really don't burn enough fuel at low idle to add any significant heat to the engine in 1-2 minutes without a load.



The best way to warm up your vehicle, and it's in your manual, is to put a light load on the engine. As soon as the lie-o-meter oil pressure gauge is in the normal range, drive easy (under 1500 RPMs, no hard accel) until the water temp is above the low temp (140 deg F) line. That also serves to warm up your transmission and gear train lube, which idling for 1-2 minutes will not. I'm not saying 1-2 minutes idling is "wrong" or bad, but it's un-necessary, and in cold weather, really doesn't do anything to a cold soaked engine.

 

[JasonCzerak]

Why??? You really don't burn enough fuel at low idle to add any significant heat to the engine in 1-2 minutes without a load.



The best way to warm up your vehicle, and it's in your manual, is to put a light load on the engine. As soon as the lie-o-meter oil pressure gauge is in the normal range, drive easy (under 1500 RPMs, no hard accel) until the water temp is above the low temp (140 deg F) line. That also serves to warm up your transmission and gear train lube, which idling for 1-2 minutes will not. I'm not saying 1-2 minutes idling is "wrong" or bad, but it's un-necessary, and in cold weather, really doesn't do anything to a cold soaked engine.

Depending on the time of year, dropping hte transmission in N and running though the gears gets the fluids moving and makes shifting easier.



If you let things idle for a little, you give the motor a chance to start to heat other parts up. Think about the friction and the flow rate of oil that's near 0 degrees? do you actually think there is oil up at the valve train seconds after starting up the motor? What about the true massive oil pressures? At 0 degrees, I'm sure things are near 150+ PSI (I don't have an oil pressure guage, who does?), getting that though the oil filter isn't easy!





Summer or winter, a minute of idle is heat on the motor. I did this same practice on my 93 jeep. I let it cool down and warm up. Used good oils (mobil one for the jeep) for the time I owned it. at 177,000 beat'ed the crap miles, including a few near over heats when the radiator was going on me. we pulled the motor (it was back firing here and there, rear main started to leak, I wanted to put a stroker kit in)



The condition of the barrings, cylinders, and other contact parts were confused by many as 'new out of the box". This motor never burnt any oil (just leaked at the rebuilt time). The only real issues were spungy valve springs (this motor spend alot of time 4000rpm +), timing chain longer then it's replacement (hence the back firing. ), and leaky rear main. a rebuild would not have included any barring replacements if I was just to fix what was wrong. I'd say this was a testament to good warm up and cool down procedures and good oil as well

 

[AKaiser]

Depending on the time of year, dropping hte transmission in N and running though the gears gets the fluids moving and makes shifting easier.



If you let things idle for a little, you give the motor a chance to start to heat other parts up. Think about the friction and the flow rate of oil that's near 0 degrees? do you actually think there is oil up at the valve train seconds after starting up the motor? What about the true massive oil pressures? At 0 degrees, I'm sure things are near 150+ PSI (I don't have an oil pressure guage, who does?), getting that though the oil filter isn't easy!





Summer or winter, a minute of idle is heat on the motor. I did this same practice on my 93 jeep. I let it cool down and warm up. Used good oils (mobil one for the jeep) for the time I owned it. at 177,000 beat'ed the crap miles, including a few near over heats when the radiator was going on me. we pulled the motor (it was back firing here and there, rear main started to leak, I wanted to put a stroker kit in)



The condition of the barrings, cylinders, and other contact parts were confused by many as 'new out of the box". This motor never burnt any oil (just leaked at the rebuilt time). The only real issues were spungy valve springs (this motor spend alot of time 4000rpm +), timing chain longer then it's replacement (hence the back firing. ), and leaky rear main. a rebuild would not have included any barring replacements if I was just to fix what was wrong. I'd say this was a testament to good warm up and cool down procedures and good oil as well

I'm not going to argue with you about the Jeep (gasser, right?) since it would heat up quicker (smaller, gas engine) than a CTD. Besides, 1 minute is a minor idle event. I wouldn't waste my time beyond that, since the B and larger engines just won't heat up in a few minutes under no load in very cold weather. Now, if you have a JakeBrake, you have a load to warm up with at idle. Not sure what their recommendations are.

 

[JasonCzerak]

I'm not going to argue with you about the Jeep (gasser, right?) since it would heat up quicker (smaller, gas engine) than a CTD. Besides, 1 minute is a minor idle event. I wouldn't waste my time beyond that, since the B and larger engines just won't heat up in a few minutes under no load in very cold weather. Now, if you have a JakeBrake, you have a load to warm up with at idle. Not sure what their recommendations are.

This is true, yes. gasser, yes smaller. But similar principle. If you just fire up and go (like many of ppl do), your going to pre-mature ware things. That's all I"m trying to say.



Ever known someone to gets in a dead cold car, turns the key, drops in gear and it at 30mph by the end of the block? You can almost hear that barrings cry for mercy! I lived next door fro a guy that did this, even in the dead freaze cold months around here. Poor car.

 

[AKaiser]

This is true, yes. gasser, yes smaller. But similar principle. If you just fire up and go (like many of ppl do), your going to pre-mature ware things. That's all I"m trying to say.



Ever known someone to gets in a dead cold car, turns the key, drops in gear and it at 30mph by the end of the block? You can almost hear that barrings cry for mercy! I lived next door fro a guy that did this, even in the dead freaze cold months around here. Poor car.

Key words: Light Load. I'll give you a minute or two, but it takes me that long to get to the end of my lane, and I don't get in a hurry (15 MPH tops, and always under 1500 RPM. I'm arguing that my light load is better than no load at idle.



Diesel engines take longer to warm up: more mass, more fluids.