took axles and hubs off, put them on (no torque wrench) what did I do wrong?

[raxley]

I have a 1994 Dodge Ram 2500 w/ automatic, 2 wd,
I took the hubs and axles out because I have a leak in the hub which gets axle lubricant on brakes. It's also easier to work on the brakes when the hub is off. I didn't have a torque wrench, but I guessed at around 120-140 ft pounds ( youtube video for these specifications) for the big 2-9/16" (I think) nut on the axles. I took it out for a test drive and something is wrong. Also did a brake job. I had anticipated towing a 27 foot trailer with it, but that's not going to happen at this point. The brakes thump even with new drums. The automatic adjusting thing is different for each side, and I tried to "tighten" up the shoes so they didn't have as far to travel. Maybe I have those adjusters on the wrong side.
I'm kind of in a hurry to get off my own property. I camped on it, it's about 20 miles away from any towns in El Dorado County in California (in Pilot Hill). I got a ticket and I have until March 8 to get off my own land, else they will start fining me. It's a beautiful piece of property, but unfortunately it's located in California, which isn't (IMO) located in the United States. I have the neighbor from hell, who has complained many times to the county and apparently has gotten another neighbor to complain too. I guess I'm too 'low rent' for their tastes.
I'm going to rent a 3/4 ton truck to tow the trailer (I'm moving about 125 miles away) tomorrow. I also will make another trip to tow my truck back. I had wanted to use a dolly, that thing that lifts up the two front wheels. I'm hoping I didn't damage the axle bearings but them not being tightened enough. I had plenty of axle lubricant and jacked up each side of the truck to try to get lubricant into each hub before test driving it yesterday. The only thing that I can think of that I did wrong was not put enough torque on the bearings.
I'm worried that if I didn't damage the bearings on my 20 mile round trip, that I will do it when I tow it another 125 miles.
I could get a flatbed trailer (I guess) but the time factor might make it better to just replace the bearings.
I'm hoping that it's just my brakes that I need to fix, but it felt something was wrong with the bearings yesterday.
To get it 125 miles (and if the bearings are not damaged already) does it seem likely to damage the bearings now?
I guess I'll get a torque wrench tomorrow. That and my shop manual were too far away yesterday
I know it's a rambling question, but any info regarding the axle bearings would be helpful.
I hope the bearings don't cost a fortune. Except when things go wrong (like now) I like doing my own work just to learn how my truck goes together!

 

[Topzide]

Haynes manual states 175 ft lbs for front axle nut. We'll help you get through this. I think your bearings may be okay, just need more torque. I knew someone did the same thing and when tightened up was fine.

 

[BigPapa]

raxley's talking about the rears. 120-140 ft. lb. is correct.

 

[NIsaacs]

The initial 140 lbs torque is just to seat the bearing, then you have to back them off 1/8 of a turn. Yours are too tight.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

but it felt something was wrong with the bearings yesterday

Verify when you pull it back apart, don't assume, you'll sleep better. Make sure you have the parts you need and incidentals when you take it apart again, lest you have to leave it apart and head back to a parts store or wait for shipping for a part you didn't expect to be damaged from the first installation.

Bearings are one of the few things you don't want to guess torque on.

 

[Timd32]

I would make a call and let them know you are having some issues and it might be an extra day or so, just in case you neighbor plays some sort of games, most places are really decent and will extend that for you since you are making an effort and as long as progress is looking that way. Much cheaper then wasting parts probably.

Besides the torque deal lots of good info above for that.

Read some stuff on bad drums out of the box, maybe get them checked at an old school place that could turn them if needed?

How about your shoes and the sort, are they directional if so are the on the correct side.

Have any friends in the area and AAA maybe they will tow it somewhere safe that won't charge storage for a few days. Some AAA does 100miles, some 200 miles, sometimes your auto insurance has roadside assistance and they might tow it.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Have any friends in the area and AAA maybe they will tow it somewhere safe that won't charge storage for a few days. Some AAA does 100miles, some 200 miles, sometimes your auto insurance has roadside assistance and they might tow it.

Just started working for AAA, driving a 5th gen Flatbed 5500. Miles depend on you membership level, call and verify with the number on the back of your membership card. Specify that you need a flatbed for a 2500 truck. Make sure you don't have any commercial decals, stickers, or business information on the truck. Anything of that nature will default into commercial rate even if you're a member. Commercial is 65.00 flat and 6.00 for every mile. Depends on the driver but its a policy majority abide by. Be transparent about what you need and your circumstances, no one likes surprises.

Membership levels and tow distances: Basic is up to 7mi, Plus is up to 100mi, Premier is up to a 100mi with one 200mi tow coverage also extending to RVs, motorcycles, and trailers.

 

[NIsaacs]

Bearings are one of the few things you don't want to guess torque on.

I agree. I also don't agree with the back it off 1/8 turn like the book says. It could be too loose or too tight. I tighten by feel. A bearing slightly loose will run forever, too tight will destroy them quick.

A lot of trailer axles use a castellated nut, cotter key and a hole in the spindle. Not very good precision adjustment. One notch can be too tight or too loose. Always error on the loose side, if you have to.

 

[raxley]

Great, thanks everybody! I knew it had to be something simple. Also now I will have a torque wrench, a service manual on CD, and I'm not so much in a hurry. Also I could park it at my neighbors if need be.
And the too loose rather than too tight is what I always used on my VW's and I don't think I ever had to replace a bearing. I've got the original drums that didn't 'thump', also I won't be towing now. I rented a truck that got my trailer down to where I wanted it.
Thanks again!

 

[Joe Mc]

Drums, drums, drums... years and years back I too had purchased "new" drums for my truck. Every time I would break the back end hopped like a bucking bronco! I took drums and had them trued, man were they whacked. After installing it was way better but sill pulsated while braking?!? The old (original) ones were too thin to reuse. I read an article on how to "fit" the shoes to the drums, basically (drums off the truck) put the shoes into the drums as they would be installed. If they rock on the center of the material = end to end, clamp one end to the drum and using another clamp pull the high (other end) side down to the drum and release. If there's still too much rocking place a small pin (a nail or old phillips screw driver) in the center of the shoe (along the mating surface drum to shoe) and clamp one shoe end then gradually pull the other end down a bit. Remove clamps, nail/screwdriver, and check progress. If the shoe to drum gap is in the middle of the shoe, clamp center of show to pull to drum, check and if still too much space, place 2 nails/screwdrivers on the ends and gradually pull middle down, checking as you go = remove spacers and check mating surfaces. It was a PIA but actually did the trick. Whenever installing new brake shoes (or even pads) I sand a bit of an angle off the material to help reduce break-in chatter. I learned this trick years ago at my uncle's truck shop.

Eventually I got tired of all the BS with brake shoes and converted rear to disc brakes.

Hope this helps you or others.

 

[raxley]

Drums, drums, drums... years and years back I too had purchased "new" drums for my truck. Every time I would break the back end hopped like a bucking bronco! I took drums and had them trued, man were they whacked. After installing it was way better but sill pulsated while braking?!? The old (original) ones were too thin to reuse. I read an article on how to "fit" the shoes to the drums, basically (drums off the truck) put the shoes into the drums as they would be installed. If they rock on the center of the material = end to end, clamp one end to the drum and using another clamp pull the high (other end) side down to the drum and release. If there's still too much rocking place a small pin (a nail or old phillips screw driver) in the center of the shoe (along the mating surface drum to shoe) and clamp one shoe end then gradually pull the other end down a bit. Remove clamps, nail/screwdriver, and check progress. If the shoe to drum gap is in the middle of the shoe, clamp center of show to pull to drum, check and if still too much space, place 2 nails/screwdrivers on the ends and gradually pull middle down, checking as you go = remove spacers and check mating surfaces. It was a PIA but actually did the trick. Whenever installing new brake shoes (or even pads) I sand a bit of an angle off the material to help reduce break-in chatter. I learned this trick years ago at my uncle's truck shop.

Eventually I got tired of all the BS with brake shoes and converted rear to disc brakes.

Hope this helps you or others.

How hard was this to convert? I have a wrecked 2005 Dodge 2500 w/ diesel. I kind of wanted to move the upgraded (Goerand convertor, billet input, etc) transmission to my 1994 along with the driveshaft (because I understand the 48re trans is longer than my r7rh) and rear end. Not sure if it also has posi or anything else good. I could put the other rearend back in 2005 and turn it into a trailer. It's got a great bed, no dents, paint is new.

 

[AnonEd]

I would plan on measuring driveshaft length and if possible, back side of engine to rear axle centerline. Even if you take the 2005 transmission and axle, the engine and rear axle may be closer together in your 1994 than the longer-wheelbase 2005. Unfortunately I don't have either here to measure.

 

[raxley]

If I decide to replace the drive line, I will remember what you said. Time, money and space are the problems. I'll probably struggle along with what I have, although I'd like to improve the 1994 (since I never want to deal with any kind of smog bureaucracy in California again. Worse than California DMV) but other things now are more important.
Thanks everybody!
I'm much obliged!

 

[bigblock_doc]

Do you have stock rims? I once had after market rims and when you tighten the lug nuts it would bend the drum. Put the winter stock rims
on and no more pulsation. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Joe Mc]

Don't think that it will be an easy conversion = 05 trans to the 94 truck. Electronics.. = PCM, not saying it can't be done just that it wouldn't be something I'd want to take on. I'm not an Electrical sort of guy and if I can't do it myself on something like this I typically don't want to pay whatever the hourly rate would be for someone to "try to figure it out" $$$$.

The rear should be not bad. I did a complete axel swap from a 94 to my 99 in conjunction with the rear drum to disc conversion. The D70 in my truck was an open end with a chipped ring gear tooth that happened during a loss of brakes when a line let go = had to drive 10 miles home using downshifting and e-brakes, had to downshift into low and heard a "ka-chunk" 1/2 mile from the house, inspection revealed big chip out of a tooth on the ring gear. Found the 94 D70 for $300 Drum to Drum and it was a fresh rebuild LSD = win-win. The housing bolted right in, but the 94 didn't have sway bar as did the 99 and the 94 shock mounts were different than the 99. I cut (with small cut-off wheels) off the sway bar and shock mount brackets from the 99 = at the base of the brackets into the housing, so as not to change length of them and cut flush the shock brackets off the 94. Measuring the locations on the 99 and transferring them to the 94 housing. Cleaned everything up and tacked 99 brackets to the 94 making sure shocks and sway bar would correctly bolt up prior to final welding. Not a bad job, lots of measuring and checking, etc. The drum to disc conversion was pretty straight forward bolt on stuff except for the tabs to secure the hose to caliper brackets had to be welded to the housing as well as relocating tabs for e-brake cable. All in all not a bad job just a bit fidgety.