Okey dokey, injectors have been successfully installed!
Here's the tools it took:
19mm open end wrench, to loosen fuel lines running throught the cylinder head
15mm socket, to remove valve cover and rear engine hoist bracket
10mm socket, to remove intake plenum
8mm socket, for injector hold-down brackets, and for fuel line brackets
8mm open end wrench, for hold-down and fuel line brackets not accessible with socket.
A prybar & something for leverage (you may have to get creative with this "tool. "
The whole process was easy, except most of my injectors were not willing to vacate their holes without a lot of persuasion.
I printed out Ram_Kowboy's directions he posted on 1/3/00 (not sure what thread) but here's what I went by (paraphrased with some of my own comments/suggestions)
1. Disconnect the intercooler hose to air intake plenum, then remove the plenum. Makes it much easier to reach cylinder #2. Put a rag in the hole to keep stuff out of the intake, and be careful of the heater grid & wiring.
2. Remove valve cover. First remove the rear hoist bracket from off the intake manifold. Then it is easy to remove the valve cover. Rock and slide it out toward the Driver's side. (others remove the hose to the heater, but then you have to deal with coolant--could be messy) When reinstalling, put the rear bolt in first because you can't once the valve cover is back in place. I left the hoist bracket off. Not planning to remove my engine anytime soon (but will keep it, just in case!!).
3. Break loose all the injector line nuts at the cylinder head. Then remove fuel line clamp at whatever cylinder you're working on, one at a time (makes sense to start at cyl #1!)
4. Unscrew cyl. head fitting and pull back out of the way just far enough so that you can back out the grey aluminum fuel delivery nozzle. Gently prying on this with a small flatblade screwdriver will loosen it, then it slides out easily. Just pull back an inch, don't remove. Be careful to not let dirt/debris get into this fitting!
5. Remove the injector retaining bar. Only loosen the rear bolt, and remove the front bolt and it slides right out.
6. Using a 10mmx1. 25 bolt from the air plenum, screw it into the injector to facilitate removal. Use something to gently pry on the bolt, to remove the injector*. Make sure the copper washer comes out with it.
7. Install new injector, making sure the port is facing the fuel line. A dab of grease can hold the copper washer in place, but they stayed on OK for me without grease. Wipe some engine oil on the large O-ring and stick it in. On cylinders 1-4, you can pop it into place with a small mallet (preferably a soft-blow), but on 5 & 6, I used the side of an end-wrench in the large slot at the top to rotate the injector while applying pressure to get it to slide on in. Also using this wrench, you can align the slot of the injector with the hold-down bolts for proper orientation. This makes it easier to reinstall the hold-down bar, and to properly seat the fuel delivery nozzle.
8. Reinstall hold-down bar. Press fuel delivery nozzle back into place (reposition fuel line against it and push, it will reseat easily). Screw the fuel line nut back into the cyl. head, making sure it screws in easily without excessive resistance or binding (verifies fuel delivery nozzle is seated OK).
9. Reinstall fuel line clamps. Clean up anything that may have gotten in the valvetrain area and intake. Reinstall valve cover, then intake plenum.
10. Fire it up! It will take several seconds of cranking and will run rough a couple seconds then smooth right out. It'll probably smoke a lot. Mine fogged the garage.
11. Check for leaks around the fuel lines, and you're done!!
*The most difficult part was removing the injectors. I ended up using the bracket from a puller, run the bolt through it that I screwed into the top of the injector, then leveraged it against the front injector hold-down bolt that I screwed back in with a deepwell socket on it. Then popped it a few times with a hammer. Email me if you want more details.
Hope this helps. If I've forgotten any details, I'll go back and edit this post.
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Vaughn MacKenzie
1998 3/4T Quad Cab 4x4, 24-valve, 5-speed w/3. 54 rear, White over Driftwood, Fog Lamps, Air Dam, Agate leather with most options.
245/75/16 Kelley Safari MSRs on M/T Classics, DeeZee running boards, diamond tread bedrail & tailgate protector.
55,715 miles (1/16/00)
BOMBING with 275HP INJECTORS
[This message has been edited by Vaughn MacKenzie (edited 01-16-2000). ]
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