Tools For Timing The 5.9 CTD

[Jeff H]

A list I have so far for timing my Cummins

Barring tool

Dial indicator and adapter for over delivery valve

Delivery valve socket

Residue cleaner spray

Injection pump gear puller

Is there any thing else I need to add?

I really wanna do the timing my self. I've read the manual enough to almost have it memorized. Is there anything alse I will need?

My truck is a 95. In 98 a reman injection pump was installed by the dealer. Can I be sure that the specs will be correct to match up with the 95 pump?

If I have to pull off the injection pump gear? How much can the gear move once loose? I dont wanna worry about the gear jumping tooth and go out of wack.

 

[Joe G.]

You can get all that except for the gear puller in a cute little plastic case from: http://www.spxmiller.com/

 

[BigYellowIron]

I got mine from snapon it was around two bills, came with the dial indacater, Gear puller, adapter for the dial indacater, and the delivery valve socket. I had a barring socket but found it useless. I just use a 15 mm socket with a long ratchet and turn the engine on the front damper.



Adam

 

[Joe G.]

I found the barring tool a very useful addition to my tool box. There are a few considerations. It's a long reach to the barring tool when it's in place. I resolved that by getting a couple of cheap two foot extensions from Harbor Freight. With four feet of extension the ratchet is in front of the radiator. Nice and convenient. You can join a bunch of extensions, but that is a floppy mess. Another thing is that it's hard to get out of the hole when you're done. I resolved that by grinding a notch on the tool shoulder to allow me to pry it out easily with a long screw driver. For some reason mine was not assembled correctly. No big deal, just removed the snap ring and turned the sprocket around. It's easy to precisely turn the engine either direction. It also freezes the engine when putting 165 lbs of torque on the injection pump nut. Nice little tool for valve adjustments too.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Timing tools

BigYellowIron, I was just looking on the Snap-On site to find this tool set you mentioned. I am quite certain I found it, it's part number is SP500, would this be the same set you got? I would also like to know how difficult this timing job is. I am seriously considering doing this myself. I figure the tool is worth it since I have other friends who could also benefit from it.



Thank!

 

[illflem]

When you have the right tools it's not hard at all. I have the Miller kit and find the barring tool to be most helpful, when turning the damper you can only go one way. Sort of a PITA if you go little too far then have to go all the way back around.

 

[Mel Fuelling]

Illflem,

I recently found (on my 1st Gen) that I could accurately and easily

control crankshaft rotation and position for verifying TDC(my timing pin happened to be dead on) and checking and adjusting

injection pump timing by:

1. Remove Fan

2. One wrench on alternator(going counterclockwise)

3. Second wrench on crankshaft(clockwise)

I don't own a barring tool, but this seemed to work pretty good.



All dial indicator readings need to be taken after engine is backed up sufficiently to remove all timing gear lash.



I think this may offer sufficient crankshaft control to avoid damag-

ing the timing pin, if you haven't found and marked TDC on the

H balancer.

 

[BigYellowIron]

Re: Timing tools

Originally posted by CumminsPower98

BigYellowIron, I was just looking on the Snap-On site to find this tool set you mentioned. I am quite certain I found it, it's part number is SP500, would this be the same set you got? I would also like to know how difficult this timing job is. I am seriously considering doing this myself. I figure the tool is worth it since I have other friends who could also benefit from it.



Thank!

Yep that is the kit that I have, The job is simple, aslong as you have some mechanical ability. Just have you a haynes manual, or a copy of the instructions and just follow them closely.



I had no problem turning the engine CCW aslong as I went slow none of the bolts broke loose. That is just my way of doing it, I had a barring tool but it just did not work well for me.



Adam

 

[CumminsPower98]

Thanks

Thanks everyone. I was reading the instructions and it doesn't look too bad. I am a mechanic and have worked on and rebuilt a few diesels but never had to time one. I might as well try something new. I did an R&R job on a P7100 pump in a buss once to have it checked out but I didn't have to time it. Talk about a pain to get to!!

 

[Jeff H]

Can Delivery valve seal be reused? It says not to. But I though That the steel seal would hold up better to be reused.

Also torquing the nut back on the shaft. I was reading both methods of doing timing on the p7100. I think final torqu on the spill port method was 144 ft lbs. For the plunger lift method it says 122 ft lbs for final torque. Its the same pump. Wich amount of torque to go by?

Thanks for the info. Keep it coming so I don't have any suprises.

Is there a TDR issue that covers timing with the procedures with tips?

Thanks Jeff

 

[Joe G.]

Jeff,



You have to clean the tapered shaft with brake cleaner before putting the nut back on and torquing it up. If there is any oil on the shaft at all it will slip and you walk. The torque is 165 ft/lbs regardless of the timing method. It was lower but was increased because of slippage. If you don't have a Dodge service manual you really need one. I don't trust the after market cheapies.

 

[jimk]

Originally posted by Jeff H

A list I have so far for timing my Cummins

Barring tool

Dial indicator and adapter for over delivery valve

Delivery valve socket

Residue cleaner spray

Injection pump gear puller

Is there any thing else I need to add?

I really wanna do the timing my self. I've read the manual enough to almost have it memorized. Is there anything alse I will need?

My truck is a 95. In 98 a reman injection pump was installed by the dealer. Can I be sure that the specs will be correct to match up with the 95 pump?

If I have to pull off the injection pump gear? How much can the gear move once loose? I dont wanna worry about the gear jumping tooth and go out of wack.

I used 6. 3mm lift on my 95, you will need a new delivery washer, you may be able to buy only one but I bought a kit from a Boush dealer which has 6 washers and o rings ect. A delivery valve kit mighty be a good way to go if you are going to do that later. I made a long extension to get the rachet over the grill with the barring tool. After I got the barring tool out of the back of the engine I machined enough off of it so the tool would come out the next time without a hammer and a screw driver. lol Jim

 

[shendren]

for what it's worth, cummins jessup who wrote the manuals for the 12v engine told me the torque on the timing gear should be 144ft-lbf.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Scott, 144 lbs is the right torque spec, but I have had the timing slip when the nut is torqued to 144 lbs. I always torque it to 160, and have never had any problems with slippage. Plus, be sure the pump shaft is clean and dry. Hit it with some brake cleaner, and then blow it dry with compressed air.

 

[CumminsPower98]

One more quick question

For you guys who do the timing job without the baring tool, how do you hold the engine from turning while torquing the nut on the pump?

 

[NETim]

chalk

I've never played with timing the pump but I've read (and been told) that once the gear shaft is cleaned and degreased, chalk should be put on it to give the pump gear a better grip,i. e. , prevent slipping.



Tim

 

[Joe G.]

Tim,



That's what you do if you remove the pump. I don't think there is any way to put chalk on the tapered shaft otherwise because the gear will not fit thru the hole in the gear case cover. I think it was Power Wagon or DieselB59 that made a post some time ago about this. In that post the recommended torque was 165 ft/lbs and the chalk lines were discussed. I don't know how you would hold the engine against that kind of torque unless you had a helper under the truck with a bar in the ring gear.

 

[BigYellowIron]

you have a damper, that has bolts with 15mm heads that can be reached from the top with a long ratchet.

Adam

 

[DieselB59]

Jim Leonard sells a engine turning tool that uses the principle of a pipe wrench to grab the balancer and turn the engine. I have used it for the trucks where guys have had butchers weld on hydraulic snow plow reservoirs that completely prevented any service on that side of the engine, including the turbo. I guess they didn't care, since it wouldn't be coming back to them for service. With two guys, you can also use the 22mm alternator nut to turn the engine, but only backwards. To turn it forwards, you need two guys... . one to turn the ratchet, the other to further tension the belt with both hands.

 

[NETim]

OK

As they say, you learn sumthin' new everyday!