Topper Wiring

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Guys (and Ladies):

I just got my new Leer topper installed Saturday. I like the topper, but the dealer was another matter. Not just a loser, but a boozer to match. Anyway, he insisted on wiring the cyclops brake light into the left brake/turn signal lamp. Obviously it's OK if you are just stopping, but if you signal for a left turn the cyclops blinks - NO GOOD. He also wired the interior light into the left tail light insted of the bed light circuit.

I think I found the correct wire for the cyclops brake light. There is a wire sticking out of the wiring harness near the spare tire on the drivers side. It'a about 2 inches long, has heat shrink on the end and check out as functioning properly with a meter. Does anyone know if this is the correct wire?

On the topper interior light, does anyone know where and how to tap into the bed lamp circuit so that I can turn it on the same way I would turn on the bed lamp?

Thanks,

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2001. 5 Intense Blue 2500 QC, SLT, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x2 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate, Trailer Tow Group, Sliding Rear Window, Line-X over the rail, Leer Cab Height Topper.

 

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The brake light wire you're looking for is white with a violet tracer on model year 2000 and is terminated with the heat-shrink you describe. It also is labeled CHMSL. I think you've found it.

 

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Originally posted by Thomas:
The brake light wire you're looking for is white with a violet tracer on model year 2000 and is terminated with the heat-shrink you describe. It also is labeled CHMSL. I think you've found it.

I'll have my wife look at it for the tracer color, I'm partially color blind. The tag on it is not in good shape. But I think your right.

Now if I can just find the bed light circuit.

Thanks,



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2001. 5 Intense Blue 2500 QC, SLT, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x2 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate, Trailer Tow Group, Sliding Rear Window, Line-X over the rail, Leer Cab Height Topper.

 

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You can buy a camper wire harness from the Dodge dealer (it plugs in somewhere near the steering column, if memory serves me right). It will have the 3rd brake light wire, as well as a ground and hot wire for any interior lights you might add in the future.
Andy

 

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I just had a shell or topper put on my truck. The brake wire was connected behind the left tail light (don't know wire color) and works correctly (doesn't flash with blinker). For the cab lights the power was run off of unswitched power at the main power distribution (fuse panel) by the left battery. This allows use of the interior lamp while camping without having to have the ignition switch on. Both circuits added with 15 amp fuses. A two-conductor connector used so shell can be removed.

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Just got my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather. Picked it up 8/31/00.

 

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That red wire is for a topper brake light. My top installer hooked my dome light to the running light wire. Only time you can turn on the dome light was with the lights on (stupid). I ran a seperate wire up the harness from the trailer hitch hot wire. Installed a fuse and a magnetic switch from radio shack. Now when I open the hatch the light comes on. The light has a seperate switch for on off. I also inlined a plug socket for 12 volt use. The only thing left is to hook this into the Rams factory alarm.

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THE ROCK/2001,4X4,3. 54 GEARS,QC,SB,AT,SPORT,CL,CAMPER PACKAGE,TRAILER PACKAGE,WHITE,MOPAR MOLDED SPLASH GUARDS,STEELHORSE NERF BARS,BEDRUG LINER,CAB HIGH CAP.

 

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Rock got it!
Go into the back of your 7 way connector, you have a brake light (cyclops), and hot (dome light with the truck locked) leads there. It is a short run and doesn't require cutting the harness. #ad


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'94 3500 4x4, 201,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (currently under remodification), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro gauges inplace of cupholder & Amsoil Bumper to Bumper. NRA member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"

 

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once you get all your wiring identified and routed, you can use a four-element boat-trailer plug between the truck wiring and the shell wiring to make disconnections and removal a little more convenient and tidy... put the "shielded" 1/2 of the plug on the "truck side" and the "bare" on the camper side---then when you stuff the idle outlet down the stake-hole to keep it out of harm's way, it won't make a "short" #ad

 

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Originally posted by ROCK KRIES:
That red wire is for a topper brake light. My top installer hooked my dome light to the running light wire. Only time you can turn on the dome light was with the lights on (stupid). I ran a seperate wire up the harness from the trailer hitch hot wire. Installed a fuse and a magnetic switch from radio shack. Now when I open the hatch the light comes on. The light has a seperate switch for on off. I also inlined a plug socket for 12 volt use. The only thing left is to hook this into the Rams factory alarm.

I think I'm going to try a slight variation of the magnetic switch idea. I'm going to try a mercury switch instead. I think it should provide 2 advantages. First, if the topper door is not closed tightly a magnetic switch might allow the light to stay on and run the batteries down, a mercury switch would remain off. Second, a mercury switch should carry more current.

I like the basic idea though and appreciate the suggestion greatly. I'll report on the results.



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2001. 5 Intense Blue 2500 QC, SLT, 5. 9L 24v Cummins, 4x2 Auto, 3. 54/LSD, 155 inch WB, Agate, Trailer Tow Group, Sliding Rear Window, Line-X over the rail, Leer Cab Height Topper.