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Torklift StableLoad Quick Disconnect Installation Issue

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I drive a 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 (not a dually). I have a cab-over camper made by S&S that is heavy and induces quite a bit of sway. I put Firestone airbags on it a couple years ago to level it out and am happy with them, but they obviously don't alleviate the sway issue. I picked up a Torklift StableLoad Quick Disconnect kit for that purpose.

My issue is in getting the four 3/8" holes drilled through the overload spring. The kit includes four carbide bits, apparently one for each hole. I made it about 1/16" on the first hole, drilling slowly and using lots of oil and force, before the spring either work-hardened or the bit was dull. Drilling slowly and oiling every few seconds should've helped, but no such luck.

Anyone have any tricks for drilling through the overload springs that doesn't involve pulling the springs and putting them on a press? At this point I'm resolved to just using all four bits and sharpening when the last one quits cutting - maybe drilling until my arms and shoulders can't take it any more every night and lots of sharpening will eventually get the job done!

Probably already answered my own question (elbow grease is the solution), but thought I'd ask. I used to hate asking for help, but the school of hard knocks has cured me of that. Thanks!
 
Possibly rent a compact magnetic drill although I am not sure it will fit in the space. Short of that .. give Torklift a call and see what customer service recommends, at the very least they can ship you more drill bits.
 
Are you drilling pilot holes first? Drilling 3/8" holes in any steel is a chore. Go to the local big box store and get 1/8" and 1/4" cobalt bits, drill through with 1/8" and then 1/4" and then drill it out to 3/8.
 
Pilot holes

The TorkLift instructions specifically and emphatically say NOT to drill pilot holes. I'm with you...that would normally precede the 3/8" holes when drilling in steel, but they say not to. Think they're afraid you'll drill to fast and harden the steel possibly. That might be my next step even though they say not to.
 
Never heard of drilling holes in spring steel, however I had the occasion of needing some holes in a large metal file/rasp while blacksmithing a knife tang. I used a very small diameter oxy/acet torch tip to heat the small desired area, air cooling, then drilling went smoothly. I've also "annealed" some thinner 'hardend steel" panels using a high speed drill with a blunted nail. This produced sufficient friction to get it red hot, thus "annealing" the spot only. Maybe these examples will inspire a solution.

Wally
 
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