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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) torqu converter lockup

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I have a 96' 2500 4x4 :--) with an auto transmission. Does ayone have a wireing diagram for this era trans. I would like to manually "lock up " tha TC. Secondly, What is the max "safe " line preasure I can run when adjusting the trasn preasure?
 
Some '96 Dodges need a reflash to make the lockup work. Get hold of srehberg to get the part number for the reflash (sometimes you have to rub their noses in it do get it done) and the correct wiring diagram for the '96.
 
Check your build date. I've read that the reflash is needed more so for the early built ones. My 96 was built in Oct 95 and it required the reflash.



The reflash part number is 04886926.
 
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The wireing diagram on the TST website is NOT the one you want. It does not allow the torgue convertor clutch to be forced to stay unlocked. I have a '95 with a 47RH so the way mine is wired will not work on a truck with a 47RE. The '96 is a special case because some of them have to have the PCM reflashed before the lockup switch will work.
 
Lock up switch

Joe G , The man said he wants to lock up the converter with a manual switch, whitch would overide the PCM I'm I wrong to think this. Thanks Steve B.
 
The TST web site has a diagram that will force a TCC to stay locked or allow the PCM to control locking. The better diagram will force a TCC to stay locked, stay unlocked, or all the PCM to control locking. The forced unlock ability is important to protect the TCC in some conditions like hard excellaration or heavy pulling on a long hill. An engine that has had some power work done can tear the TCC out if it is locked in those conditions, especially if the trans is stock.
 
I haven't been able to find the diagram on TST's newly redone web site. Maybe I am not looking in the right place.

The wiring for the switch is pretty simple for the 47RH but am not sure about the 47RE.

Does it's computer put obstacles in the way to prevent manually engaging the TC solenoid?
 
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Howard,



The 47Re has a relay that has to be removed and a jumper installed on a couple of pins in the socket. I'm not sure which ones they are. I think the wire colors are the same as for a 47RH but I'm not sure. The early '96s have to have the PCM reflashed. For some reason they will lockup ok, but won't let go regardless of switch position. Have to shift to N to stop without killing the engine. The lockup behaviour is a little different than the 47RH because the switch valve is different.
 
It's an orange wire with black stripe. You'll need to know which bank of wires it is in though because one of them is the wait to start light. I'm pretty sure its the middle one. The wire you need is on the backside of the connector (firewall side) i'm pretty sure.

You will need to jump the relay. There are only 4 pins. Two open and shut the relay. the others are the ones that need to be jumped. You can look at the relay and see the broken circuit on the relay itself.



The big problem- IF YOU HAVE THE EARLY PCM the TCC lockup will work untill you unlock the TCC switch. When it's unlocked after a lockup you will loose your foward

power. Restarting the truck will restore your foward gears. This does require the flash.



Get the PN# from someone because the dealer will tell you it doesn't exist, unless they really like you.
 
Joe g.



I have a pro-loc torque conv lockup control with rocker type on/off switch. I pull a 13000 # trailer. are you suggesting that i unlock the torque conv on a long uphill grade?
 
JEricson,



If you have enough power to slip your torque convertor clutch then you need a way to force it to stay unlocked in those situations. Otherwise, you can easily wreck your TCC. There is a draw back. If the TCC is unlocked then the trans temps will be higher. If you don't have a trans temp gauge and you are pulling that much weight you really need one regardless if you unlock the TCC or not.
 
Just an update, I put a manual lockup switch in with an indicator LED and itworks great. I found the instructions on DTT site. Very simple and strieght forward. Thnaks Joe G.
 
JEricson said:
Joe g.



I have a pro-loc torque conv lockup control with rocker type on/off switch. I pull a 13000 # trailer. are you suggesting that i unlock the torque conv on a long uphill grade?

All I know is, with my DTT 89% torque converter and my 11,000 trailer, if I try pulling a hill with the converter unlocked the transmission temp guage is winding up like a tach on a run away engine. I have been known to pull over and shift into low range to keep from roasting the transmission when I can't pull a hill in direct with the torque converter locked. With 3. 55 gears I can easily maintain 35+ mph in overdrive in low range. The egt, coolant and transmission temps stay real happy this way. yea, there are some hills around here. :-laf

I need a way to keep the transmission from shifting out into 3rd, I have the "mystery switch" installed, so I can make the torque converter do what I want, it's the transmission I can't keep from upshifting. :(
 
the stock auto will remain unlocked if you turn off the OD button and keep your foot in it, but you will need to watch your transmission temps.
 
When unlocked and under load, such as towing up a steep grade, use the least possible amount of throttle to hold speed. With a 10K# 5er in tow I was pulling the steep grade out of Taylor, BC and was caught behind a loaded dump truck doing 25 mph. My transmission was all stock and building heat very nicely. This caused me to throttle back some and I noticed that my speed had hardly changed. I had been turning about 2250 rpm and holding about 25 mph in 2nd. I had reduced rpm to 2100 and was still holding the same speed. The temp climbing was greatly reduced and readily noticed (probe in cooler line). In short, don't rev above the efficient fluid coupling in play. Feather/feel the throttle to speed situation and don't shear the transmission fluid anymore than absolutely necessary.
 
STripp, that applies to the 47RH like you have in your '95. The 47RE lockup works differently.



If you keep the TCC locked you can have EGT problems or TCC slipage. If you keep it unlocked you can have trans temp problems. Down shifting will help the EGT. Lifting will help EGT and trans temp. Ya gotta pay attention to your gauges.
 
Joe G.

I am still tinkering with my home made TC/OD controller for towing and am considering opening the OD control circuit while the TC is either manually locked or unlocked which, I am thinking, will only allow manual TC control in 3rd.

With the switch in it's normal position, TC and OD will function as usual by PCM control.

I don't want to use the OD lockout button because that would mess up my control scheme.
 
Howard,



I don't think the OD circuit has any affect on the TCC if the TCC is controlled manually. The PCM won't allow lockup in 3rd if OD is not locked out, but that's just the way it's program works. I can lockup the TCC in 2nd, 3rd, or OD regardless of the OD button setting.
 
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