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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Torque converter slipping

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it would be my luck, i have a 2000 auto with a k&n airfilter and boost and pryometer. i read alot of the posts about the edge ez and most of the people were saying the transmission/tq would hold up. so i got the box put it on three days ago. first day i put it in was like a new toy, step on it here and there but not what i would say to be "abusing" it. today i notice when locked up in overdrive the tq is slipping when pushed about half throttle in overdrive. just had it to the stealer 3,000 miles ago for the 45,000 service. which included fluid and filter change in the transmission, rearend and that good stuff. i DID NOT have the box on when i took it in for the service. so my qustion is should i put the truck back to stock(take the box off and the boost elbow) and go in and explain what it is doing and act all dumb about it. i don't tow anything over 2,000 with it. can't really shell out $1,000 for a good tq right now. thanks for your help



Jerre:confused: :{
 
Take off the box,and take it in if you can live with the thought of the dealer touching your truck. A new stock torque convertor may last a little longer if you turn up the pressures or just replace the valve body. Good luck.
 
Check the line pressure at idle in drive with the wheels chocked and E-brake set. If below about 56 PSI drop the pan and turn it up, you are looking for 62-64 psi. If you cannot get it up that high leave the EZ off until you can afford a VB.



Your problem is NOT the TC. Your problem is the pressures in your transmission are not holding the clutch engagement. It is also nearly impossible for us mere mortals to tell if it is the OD clutch pack or the TCC that is doing the slipping.



Directions for the pressure adjustment and the pressure check can be found on the DTT website.
 
I had that same problem on my 2000 and went with a Sun Coast (Pro Lock) valve body and it solved my problem. Give them a call at 1-800-868-0053. They are listed in the TDR.
 
Have you checked the fluid level? ( warmed up in Neutral).

Lots of times it'll slip if its low. The dealer may not have taken the time to "burp" it. Good Luck!

Frank
 
jerrethomas, I had basically the same problem of the TC locking and unlocking but not slipping. I had had it into the dealers several times but it always came back with a different fix but it still had the problem. I read here the other night to reset the APPS, it had worked for several people. What you do is unhook the batteries for 30 minutes, re-connect them... turn the key on but do not start. Press the accelerator pedal to the floor and let up slowly. Turn the key back to off and restart and drive for test.



I can't believe that it did fix MY problem. Might as well try it, nothing to lose.



If it is slipping, that's another story.



My . 02 cents.



Devon
 
yea, i checked the line pressure and it is 58 psi. could go a little higher. i unhooked it for now and it really sucks. it is defintely slipping something. what would totally fix the problem, TQ or a valve body?
 
I'd spend 2K and do it RIGHT the FIRST time, remember this # 866-504-4002 it is a direct line to the transmission god, and he's a good guy to,



no they do'nt sponser me, they just do right by their customers



p. s. roadking shifting is a mother trucker
 
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To fix it right,it needs to come out,have it checked out internally for damage,from slipping,put an upgrade kit in while its apart,then round it out with a torque convertor,and valve body. Call around,there's a lot of companys selling trans goodies,I chose DTT,and have no regrets,bu there are others ATS,BD,just to name the most popular. Talk with them,and go with who you feel the best with,this isnt going to be cheap,but it will fix it,and allow you to add even more power later on.
 
Originally posted by LSMITH

It is also nearly impossible for us mere mortals to tell if it is the OD clutch pack or the TCC that is doing the slipping.




i'm not trying to go against you as you may be right, but i'm pretty sure i am (can) slipping my tcc. if i floor it locked at around 55mph, it's fine, but if i ease into the throttle at 55mph then i can slip it. actually, i can't tell at that point. but if the converter is trying to lock up i can almost keep it from doing so by pushing the throttle a tad harder. don't get me wrong, i don't do that anymore as this auto has to last me at least 1 1/2 years:( . maybe you're right, but in my case, it just seems to point to the tc instead.
 
98rammer



That sounds like the convertor. At slight throttle the pressures are low so the TCC slips,the more pedal you give it the better it holds. Mine first started under light throttle,but hooked back up if I nailed it. Now it slips all the time,have to keep it unlocked under power. Cranking up the pressures is a temporary solution.



One easy way to tell if it is the convertor or trans,is to tap the brake pedal when it happens,which will unlock the convertor. If the revs don't increase it is usually the convertor. If the revs flare up more,it's the trans.
 
brg, all i can really say is: Yep. yes, i'm 99. 9% sure it's the tcc, but lsmith does bring up a good point. the line pressures are what's keeping it from slipping at WOT as compared to 1/2 rolling into it. luckily the clutch it still holding, but other than the quick accelerations, i've always babied this transmission.



to anyone- what about the tc manual lock up switch? i have the directions from tst here, but i wonder... if i install it, can i keep the transmission from locking up in OD? i don't like lock up with this converter until highway speeds as the rpm drop creates the fierce scrubbing on the lock up clutch.



twice i can remember a 400rpm slip, but it was mostly 100 or so rpms:eek: i took my plate out a while ago just to see the differences. the truck took off, but so did the rpms again in OD above 60 with my foot to the floor (didn't take long to let off).



so i'm stopped on all mods right now except for the gsk.
 
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You can install mystery switches that keep the TC unlocked in addition to those that keep the TC locked. Some switches have positions that are locked, unlocked, and stock. The switch I came up with is described in:



http://216.235.147.117/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54464



Keep your switch in the unlocked position until you are up to your cruise speed and then switch the TC into lock/stock. Operating around town with the switch in unlock will eliminate the low speed lock and unlock wear for the next 18 months before you get your transmission rebuild.
 
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