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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission torque setting for brake bleed screws

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) transmission Code P1792

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Speedometer correction

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My service manual at pages 5-42 and 5-50 gives the torque settings for brake components, but the list does not include the brake bleed screws. I have an inch-pound torque wrench as well as a couple of foot pounders, and I'd like to be able to use them on these critical fittings. Page 12 of the manual gives torque specs for standard bolts, but these screws are hollow, and I'd like to know the correct torque. I've been tightening bleed screws for 40 years, but I'd still rather use an engineer"s recommendation. Does anyone have the information, please? The front bleeders take a 10 mm deep socket, and the rears take an 8 mm socket. Thanks.

Nick.
 
Crowhurst said:
My service manual at pages 5-42 and 5-50 gives the torque settings for brake components, but the list does not include the brake bleed screws. I have an inch-pound torque wrench as well as a couple of foot pounders, and I'd like to be able to use them on these critical fittings. Page 12 of the manual gives torque specs for standard bolts, but these screws are hollow, and I'd like to know the correct torque. I've been tightening bleed screws for 40 years, but I'd still rather use an engineer"s recommendation. Does anyone have the information, please? The front bleeders take a 10 mm deep socket, and the rears take an 8 mm socket. Thanks.

Nick.





Good n snug is tight enough. They don't need torque. Use a small wrench. You'll feel it stop when closing. This will take vitually no pressure. Then give it a little more. Like 1 flat of the hex head. Don't overtighten!!! Remember, good n snug!



Dave
 
Dave, thanks for the reply, That's how I've been doing it for 40 years or so, like my Dad showed me about the late 50's, but yesterday I did that and a test stop on my driveway blew the dust cap off the bleed screw because it leaked so much. I had to re-tighten it more than I thought it needed. That was a new bleeder, a smear of anti-sieze, a 10mm deep socket on a quarter inch ratchet, and a new dust cap. To have a serious leak after that amount of care is unsettling,which is why I ask about the torque.

Nick.
 
J, that's excellent information, thank you. I will use 55 front and 45 rear unless I find anything more specific for our trucks. Thanks again.

Nick.
 
Crowhurst said:
Dave, thanks for the reply, That's how I've been doing it for 40 years or so, like my Dad showed me about the late 50's, but yesterday I did that and a test stop on my driveway blew the dust cap off the bleed screw because it leaked so much. I had to re-tighten it more than I thought it needed. That was a new bleeder, a smear of anti-sieze, a 10mm deep socket on a quarter inch ratchet, and a new dust cap. To have a serious leak after that amount of care is unsettling,which is why I ask about the torque.

Nick.



Most of the issues with bleeder screws are from overtightening. This is usually the case with most fasteners.



It sounds like you are on the right track!!



Dave
 
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