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Tough shifting in 2nd gear

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Plastic Hydraulic Clutch Line

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So, then the question is; where do you put it? An aftermarket housing that replaces the PTO cover on the driver side



I was thinking more basic than all that. More like a fitting tapped somewhere into the lower side of the case, and another on top above the dry gear.

Then a pump mounted someplace in a frame rail, etc. to pump from the lower to flush the gear with oil.

I don't have a transmission in front of me to know exactly where those fittings could go, but if I were rebuilding one I would at least do the drilling and tapping... .

A couple of fittings, some stainless braided hoses, and a Walbro pump. Not terribly expensive.

Thoughts?
 
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I like that idea, it would certainly be a lot cheaper than using a self contained gear pump. If you wanted to get fancy you could also add an override priming switch, since it would be cheap and easy to do so, allowing you to cycle the pump at will, as well as a small 2 quart gravity feed reservoir with a fill and drain plug, making changing the trans oil and adding an extra quart a much simpler affair.
 
I am sure you guys are on the right track with an oil pump system. It would have to help. However the main reason for less then perfect oiling of the pocket bearing (even with good oil splash) is the fact that it is "hidden" in that pocket. The output/main shaft seals up against the bearing and input shaft with small oil slots to allow the oil to seep in. There is also the 3rd/4th gear shift collar that is acting like an umbrella over the oil entrance. This bearing is almost always bad on a transmission rebuild with input shaft damage (like in the picture) more often then not.



Nick
 
The picture has alot of glare, however, the rollers on that bearing set look just like the bearing race, in the picture. All are severely damaged. GregH
 
transmission and clutch to be reworked?

Called today and made my case to Clint at Advanced Transmission.

Also talked to Peter at SBC.

The transmission wont downshift from 4th to 3rd. It did grind on a couple of downshifts from 3rd to second, but not every time.

When operating in 4x4, high range on the t-case, using 3rd gear and into the torque range of 1600-1800RPM, the truck was shuddering as if the clutch was slipping.

Peter, at SBC, said he would work with Advanced Transmission so I could get a better clutch than the LUC replacement that was installed with the initial transmission rebuild. (I have to pay the difference. ) Peter, as always, is very helpful. If I can get this done, it will be my second SBC. The first was on "old ugly". Unfortunately, for me, I am no longer able to do this heavy work. My friend, that assisted me with "old ugly" is no longer available.

The LUC is warranted for one year. I argued that my annual mileage is only about 5,000 miles. If the LUC is acting up now at less than 1200 miles. What kind of warranty is that? So, we will see. I promised Clint a good writeup here if Advanced Transmission did a good job. We just need "old iron" to cooperate:-laf. GregH
 
For a lube pump you could use a gear lube pump taht is belkt driven off the driveshaft yoke etc. . like the nascar racers use to lube the 9" ford rears. I thought of this and bought a used lube pump with its bracket from a nascar surplus supplier etc. . I wanted to use it on my g56 . . same idea as Jleonard. suck from pto cover or fast cooler and pump int oth etop of the case etc . . I was thinking near the shifter. . in the top cover in a getrag 360 maybe you could run a t splitting the flow . . and plumb a smaller line with a restrictor to lower pressure and plumb it into the pocket bearing race some how?... in my G56 case I don't know what fails in them . . but extra lube and afilter can't hurt?...

Thanks,

Deo
 
Talked to Clint at Advanced Transmission, today and delivered a gallon of synthetic oil (they dont install synthetic oil in this transmission). The gist is that they will not do a South Bend Clutch, unless I buy it and swallow the cost of both units. Upon dissasembly, if any burn marks are found on the flywheel, we will talk further, however they are adamant about NOT doing the SB even with them being able to buy it at wholesale and retailing it to me. If it needs to be replaced, on warranty, it will be a LUC. I would bear the entire cost and ordering of the SB unit if I want it installed, warranty replacement or not.

Another interesting note is the new the plan of attack is to "remove the shift tower and inspect the forks and detents":eek:! HHmmmmmm:rolleyes:. That should have been done the first time!

This is one of the big disadvantages of not being able to do it yourself! Every shop is a gamble, with some really outstanding and many mediocre. This 3rd attempt will be the one that breaks the camels back, if it doesnt go well. As you can tell, I'm not to happy about the whole mess, but I am caught between a rock and a hard place. GregH
 
Greg, you're getting royally screwed. Tell them that they WILL put in a South Bend, you will not cover the cost of the Luk but will pay for a SB. This should be their last chance to make it right. I'd be looking at small claims court soon. Bah!
 
Coalsmoke! Could be, however I will be writing about it here. That way everybody will know. I called today and Clint said "the clutch was fine"? They are replacing the 3rd gear syncro with a different brand, design. The original, first and and second replacement was brass/bronze. The third attempt is a steel/kevlar syncro. Anyone heard of that? Dont know if they found any issues with the shift forks and detents. A test drive through the snow, with the engine running in its highest torque range will determine if the clutch is good or not, in short order.

Thanks for the heads-up. I will consider action only as a last resort. The BBB and Tom Martino(local consumer advocate) can often get things done, also. GregH
 
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The third attempt is a steel/kevlar syncro. Anyone heard of that



I have heard of steel and kevlar gloves and brake lines, but not syncros, gears or sprockets. I guess I would want to understand their thought process of changing materials to solve a problem that is not related to wear... ... . ASSuming they have a thought process, sounds like they may not.
 
I'd sure like to get the mfgr and part number off this new replacement syncro. Clint says; "its what is being used as a replacement when the brass syncros dont work". "Is what the manufacturers went to in the later getrag transmissions". ??? This I don't know. I am at a severe disadvantage, here. The part has a steel teeth ring with a fiber bearing surface.

Clint also told me that the shifing forks are only slightly worn and did not require any repair. They did install the synthetic oil, 5W-30 Amsoil.

The truck has had the LUC clutch in it before this replacement. The flywheel was resurfaced as part of the installation. Hopefully we can get the truck, on 2 February. GregH
 
Got down to -23*F. last night. Cant even get the cars started this AM. The transmission place is storing "New Ugly" inside, Thankfully. If I can get down there , today. I'll get the tank topped off with fuel and some cold weather fuel additive. There is no Cold Weather Diesel fuel. Straight #2 has been the year around fuel where I fill up. Maybe the truck stops have that choice? I would think so for OTR truckers. GregH
 
Coalsmoke, I drove it home and have done nothing with it since. Been having family emergencies and not enough of me to go around;). GregH
 
Got a chance to drive it around the hills, around home, today. Never even hit 5th gear. However the 1-4 gears shifted up and down flawlessly. Hopefully I can get it out on the highway and run it through its paces soon. The Synthetic oil really helps this transmission.

We are about to move into peak snow season. We could get lots of small squalls or lots of big dumps. We never know. The weather in March and April is very unpredictable. GregH
 
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