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towing a 5er - hitch decisions

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Now that we're leaning towards a 5er as our first RV, we need to figure out what kind of hitch to use. Since we have a long bed, we don't need a slider. Loaded capacities are in the 2,700 hitch weight and 15k trailer weight range. There are also some fifth wheel hitch type variations I would like to learn more about. Of the major types I am aware of, there are static, dynamic/air ride (as opposed to slider), and ball. Here are my thoughts on these from what I have read so far. Any feedback on these would be appreciated.



Static: This is the standard type of fifth wheel hitch. I would probably go with the B&W Companion for this type. They have a good reputation. Having a flat bed to use while not towing would be nice. If I ever sell the truck to a farmer down the road, it would already be set up for a gooseneck and I could move the companion to the next TV. But, having a hitch with rails may save some money up front. I would certainly want one that pivots left/right and front/back.



Dynamic/Air Ride: I'm aware of a couple of variations, the TrailerSaver/Hensley BD3 and the TrailerMate. This type would likely reduce transient loads that would otherwise be absorbed mostly by the rear tires. I'm guessing the TrailerSaver is probably the standard here, though at an extra $1,000 compared with the TrailerMate. I'm not sure about the TrailerMate, other than it being an ugly gold color. Their site mentions not bouncing like an air ride, but then I'm not sure how it would handle a long stretch of concrete expansion joints without eventually compressing to the point of no longer being dynamic. Of these, I would probably lean towards the BD3.



Ball: I know of the traditional gooseneck ball and the issues with the gooseneck 'lever' and the forces that could apply to a 5er frame not designed to handle it. I think I would avoid using this type of ball hitch. But, there is also the Andersen Ultimate ball hitch. This avoids the issue with the gooseneck lever by placing the ball at the same plane as the pin. It provides the flexibility of ball movement without the lever forces on the frame. Compared with other hitches, the steel tube frame is also light weight at only 40 pounds plus rails for that version. The ball never needs greasing. And, the cost is also low compared with the other hitches I have mentioned.



I have read there may be issues with a ball hitch if turning onto an off camber road. A fifth wheel hitch may hit the pivot limit and prevent the trailer from crushing the side of the truck box. But, this makes me wonder some other things. Where would these forces go if the trailer cannot move freely after reaching the hitch pivot limit? Could these forces be the causes of some of the frame failures I've read about when using a fifth wheel hitch? If using a ball in this situation, the added hitch flexibility may allow the side of the truck box to be crushed. But, that leads to two more questions. Which is more likely to remain 'safely' mobile after damage, a crushed truck box or a bent trailer frame. Also, which is the less expensive repair, a crushed truck box or a bent trailer frame?



To add further complexity, the various hitches can be combined with different king pins. It could be the standard fixed king pin, a Mor/Ryde (front/back cushion), or even a Trailair Tri-Glide (front/back + air cushion).



So, how do you go about comparing the pros/cons of hitches and king pins to determine which is best for a given set of constraints? Thanks.



Tim
 
For me it is a real a easy decision. I like Reese. Reese is not cheap but you get what you pay for. The Reese Elite series has an under box mounting system that leaves a clean floor when hitch is removed. The hitch head pivots both ways as well. If you need a goose neck hitch they make a ball plate that uses the same mounts. I use the 25K Elite because of my trailer weight. I also always buy more hitch than I need because I like a safety margin. There are other good hitches out there but this is my preference.
 
I also have a Reese 15K hitch for my 12K RV. The head pivots in 4 directions. It works great, and I have a nice clean, flat bed when not in my truck.
 
Thanks for the Reese pointer. While researching the Reese products, I came across the Goose Box. It has the air ride of the 5th Airborne, would work with just the B&W Turnover Ball (without Companion), and is approved by Lippert. (Lippert - Goosebox) This would certainly fix the issue of what to do with the hitch while parked for several months at a time. Instead of leaving it hanging from the pin, I could just flip the ball over. It says it "Fits Lippert #1621 and #1716 wing sets" I would just need to check if that is the right frame. Any thoughts on this option?
 
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Hands down B&W. There is no question if you are latched or not. Very high quality. Tweets rv is a good place to buy on line. Every truck that I have seen with bed damage from 5th wheel falling on truck had a Reese hitch. Just my observation.
 
hitch

I have had a reese for years. keep it clean and lubed up,also i painted my jaws

red so i can see when they are shut. 1300 lb 5th wheel 2000 lb hitch,don,t go cheap it has worked out in the long run for me. I always tug with the jacks up just a little and brakes on 5fer locked before i move. to make sure every thing is locked and ready to go.



happy trails DK
 
I also did a lot of research before purchasing my B&W hitch... the jaws were a very inportant feature for me. They seem much heavier built than most all other hitches out there and the locking lever leaves little doubt that the pin is locked in. A flat open floor was a must and while I don't have a gooseneck trailer right now I don't rule out the possibility of one in the future and it is also good for resale. I couldn't imagine not having a side to side pivoting head and overall the construction seems to be much heavier built than a lot of hitches that use stamped steel. My only complaint with the Companion is that when removing it even though it removes as 2 pieces it is really heavy and a little awkward... but I think I can live with that.
 
I've been towing 5th wheels for 25 years and have used a variety of hitches. I've never had one come loose but I have had other problems that I won't bother to detail.



My most recent and current hitch is the B&W Companion and it is by far, the best.



I have a steep driveway and the B&W pivots all the way to the stop when backing out at an angle. The extra give after that will just compress the truck springs on that side a little more. If it was going to damage anything it would have done it by now since I've been doing it since 2005 with no problems.
 
Look at the trucks with custom beds most have B&W hitches installed on them from the outfitter. That says a lot. The jaws are at least 1" thick on the B&W and the Curt I looked at the jaws were only 1/2" thick. I think the B&W is under rated compared to some of the other hitches.
 
The B&W certainly looks nice. Any idea what the weight is of the B&W Turnover ball + Companion? The product details page doesn't provide this info. It doesn't say on Tweety's either. I was guessing about 150 pounds for hitch weight in my calculations. Would the polyurethane bushings on the B&W provide damping similar to a mini air ride?
 
I think 150 pounds for the combination is a good guess... as far as the poly bushings the plate sits on... they probably provide some cushioning but it's impossible to be certain unless one could compare it to something else with the same truck and the same camper.
 
I would guess the 150 is close also. The bushings are nice because they are quiet compared to a metal to metal connection. The only noise is when taking off from a stop ,som etimes there is a small clunk. It is the small vertical movement between the jaws and the king pin. The jaws fit fairly tight around the pin.
 
I use the B&W Companion 5th wheel with a Demco Glide-Rite pinbox stinger to provide fore-and-aft compliance. This combination really makes pulling a 5th wheel a pleasure. No fore/aft clunking and any surging such as when braking on washboard surfaces is reduced by probably 80%.



Rusty
 
Here's an alterative that no one has mention yet. It's called the Super 5th Pull-Rite. When you remove the hitch you can also remove the rails by pulling 4 pins. That leaves you a clean bed. After doing much research and talking to TDR experts, such as Ken Lenger and others, I decided that this was the best hitch for my needs. The system is very well engineered. You install four brackets on the frame through existing holes on the frame. No drilling or welding required. You then insert four 1 1/4" pins from the bed of the truck, which are turned 90* clockwise to lock. You then attach the rails to the 4 pins. See their web site: Pull-Rite



I've been very satisfied with my system and I highly recommended it. A little difficult to install, but I did it in a day.
 
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The B&W locks when you back into your hitch pin but you still have to put a locking pin through the unlocking handle. This prevents any chance of unlocking.
 
I use a padlock instead of the pin and attach the breakaway cable to the lock. Just keeps some a-hole from pulling your pin and causing at a minimum bed damage. I put mini padlocks where the head attaches to the rubber pivot bushings. There are jerks in this world just have to try to stay ahead of them!
 
Thanks again for the feedback. I found and read the hitch procedures in the Super 5th and Companion manuals. I guess there will not be much difference in hitch procedure between them.

Cummins12V98, thanks for the reminder of the padlocks.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. Grizzly, thanks for the Super 5th mention. I like the auto-locking feature. Does the B&W Companion do that, too?



Pull-Rite has a unique latch design that no other manufacture has, which I believe is superior to any other. Pull-Rite is a well respected brand.



george
 
No the B&W companion hitch does not have a auto locking feature, you have to put a pin in the handle to secure it. Whats nice is if the pin is in you know that it is locked. Twenty years ago I remolded my truck bed when I thought that the hitch was locked. Since then I have always tested the hookup even with the B&W which I have used for over 10 years and had no problems with hooking and un-hooking my trailer. I also use a Mor/ryde pin box that makes a big difference with the freeway slab spacing.



Ken
 
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