Now that we're leaning towards a 5er as our first RV, we need to figure out what kind of hitch to use. Since we have a long bed, we don't need a slider. Loaded capacities are in the 2,700 hitch weight and 15k trailer weight range. There are also some fifth wheel hitch type variations I would like to learn more about. Of the major types I am aware of, there are static, dynamic/air ride (as opposed to slider), and ball. Here are my thoughts on these from what I have read so far. Any feedback on these would be appreciated.
Static: This is the standard type of fifth wheel hitch. I would probably go with the B&W Companion for this type. They have a good reputation. Having a flat bed to use while not towing would be nice. If I ever sell the truck to a farmer down the road, it would already be set up for a gooseneck and I could move the companion to the next TV. But, having a hitch with rails may save some money up front. I would certainly want one that pivots left/right and front/back.
Dynamic/Air Ride: I'm aware of a couple of variations, the TrailerSaver/Hensley BD3 and the TrailerMate. This type would likely reduce transient loads that would otherwise be absorbed mostly by the rear tires. I'm guessing the TrailerSaver is probably the standard here, though at an extra $1,000 compared with the TrailerMate. I'm not sure about the TrailerMate, other than it being an ugly gold color. Their site mentions not bouncing like an air ride, but then I'm not sure how it would handle a long stretch of concrete expansion joints without eventually compressing to the point of no longer being dynamic. Of these, I would probably lean towards the BD3.
Ball: I know of the traditional gooseneck ball and the issues with the gooseneck 'lever' and the forces that could apply to a 5er frame not designed to handle it. I think I would avoid using this type of ball hitch. But, there is also the Andersen Ultimate ball hitch. This avoids the issue with the gooseneck lever by placing the ball at the same plane as the pin. It provides the flexibility of ball movement without the lever forces on the frame. Compared with other hitches, the steel tube frame is also light weight at only 40 pounds plus rails for that version. The ball never needs greasing. And, the cost is also low compared with the other hitches I have mentioned.
I have read there may be issues with a ball hitch if turning onto an off camber road. A fifth wheel hitch may hit the pivot limit and prevent the trailer from crushing the side of the truck box. But, this makes me wonder some other things. Where would these forces go if the trailer cannot move freely after reaching the hitch pivot limit? Could these forces be the causes of some of the frame failures I've read about when using a fifth wheel hitch? If using a ball in this situation, the added hitch flexibility may allow the side of the truck box to be crushed. But, that leads to two more questions. Which is more likely to remain 'safely' mobile after damage, a crushed truck box or a bent trailer frame. Also, which is the less expensive repair, a crushed truck box or a bent trailer frame?
To add further complexity, the various hitches can be combined with different king pins. It could be the standard fixed king pin, a Mor/Ryde (front/back cushion), or even a Trailair Tri-Glide (front/back + air cushion).
So, how do you go about comparing the pros/cons of hitches and king pins to determine which is best for a given set of constraints? Thanks.
Tim
Static: This is the standard type of fifth wheel hitch. I would probably go with the B&W Companion for this type. They have a good reputation. Having a flat bed to use while not towing would be nice. If I ever sell the truck to a farmer down the road, it would already be set up for a gooseneck and I could move the companion to the next TV. But, having a hitch with rails may save some money up front. I would certainly want one that pivots left/right and front/back.
Dynamic/Air Ride: I'm aware of a couple of variations, the TrailerSaver/Hensley BD3 and the TrailerMate. This type would likely reduce transient loads that would otherwise be absorbed mostly by the rear tires. I'm guessing the TrailerSaver is probably the standard here, though at an extra $1,000 compared with the TrailerMate. I'm not sure about the TrailerMate, other than it being an ugly gold color. Their site mentions not bouncing like an air ride, but then I'm not sure how it would handle a long stretch of concrete expansion joints without eventually compressing to the point of no longer being dynamic. Of these, I would probably lean towards the BD3.
Ball: I know of the traditional gooseneck ball and the issues with the gooseneck 'lever' and the forces that could apply to a 5er frame not designed to handle it. I think I would avoid using this type of ball hitch. But, there is also the Andersen Ultimate ball hitch. This avoids the issue with the gooseneck lever by placing the ball at the same plane as the pin. It provides the flexibility of ball movement without the lever forces on the frame. Compared with other hitches, the steel tube frame is also light weight at only 40 pounds plus rails for that version. The ball never needs greasing. And, the cost is also low compared with the other hitches I have mentioned.
I have read there may be issues with a ball hitch if turning onto an off camber road. A fifth wheel hitch may hit the pivot limit and prevent the trailer from crushing the side of the truck box. But, this makes me wonder some other things. Where would these forces go if the trailer cannot move freely after reaching the hitch pivot limit? Could these forces be the causes of some of the frame failures I've read about when using a fifth wheel hitch? If using a ball in this situation, the added hitch flexibility may allow the side of the truck box to be crushed. But, that leads to two more questions. Which is more likely to remain 'safely' mobile after damage, a crushed truck box or a bent trailer frame. Also, which is the less expensive repair, a crushed truck box or a bent trailer frame?
To add further complexity, the various hitches can be combined with different king pins. It could be the standard fixed king pin, a Mor/Ryde (front/back cushion), or even a Trailair Tri-Glide (front/back + air cushion).
So, how do you go about comparing the pros/cons of hitches and king pins to determine which is best for a given set of constraints? Thanks.
Tim