Towing Capacity, How best to beef up this suspension

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Howdy, I live in Minnesota and have been a member for sometime, now I need some advice and help. Recently I purchased a Felling gooseneck trailer (18000# bed capacity) for hauling medium square bales to market. I own a 1997 2500 4x4 club cab 4. 10 automatic 77,000 miles equiped with the trailer towing package, Horton fan clutch, TST upgrade (which I'll install after 100k is achieved), Rino lining, bright box, etc. Last week I took my first load of medium square bales (3'x3'x8' ~ 1,000# each for those not into hay bales)to auction. All week prior to the auction I was trying to figure out how much I could tow. I weight the truck @ 6,900#, trailer empty @ 6,400#, so my combined vehicle weight was 13,300#. I looked at the owners manual and it indicated that the combined gross vehicle weight should not exceed 18,000#. Well that would mean I could only haul 4 bales on the bed. Thinking that I could do better than that, I loaded 11 bales (around 11,000#). Well driving 90 miles to the auction was interesting to say the least. My rearend was bottoming out and I was REAL nervious to say the least. When I got to the auction, I saw at least 4 other 3/4 ton pickups with a similar trailer all hauling at between 22 and 27 bales (22,000# ~ 27,000#). I felt like I was driving a whimp of a truck, which I know not to be true since several of the trucks were Dodge Cummins 2500s. So I walked around and looked at their springs (understand I am a novice at this). I observed a Ford or two with Air bags, some of the Dodge's had a different spring setup. Being I was the new kid on the block at the auction, I spent most of my time recording details on the auction, and not much time asking about suspension setups. Also it was 34 degrees out with a 25 mile per hour wind and rain, so nobody wanted to sit around and talk anyway. I sold my load and delivered it 32 miles away to a dairy farmer, how promptly proceeded to tell me I should have loaded at least twice as much hay on my bed. Looking behind me I noticed the Ford F250 loaded with twice as much (he had driven south from Manitoba, Canada). I simply agreed with the farmer telling him this that I am a first timer, and needed to setup my suspension better. I also lowered my delivery charge a few dollars.

The trailer is new and has tandem axles with duals. It also has electric brakes that work great. Also when I had the Redline ball installed in the truck bed, the installer indicated he could only get about 2" infront of my rear axle because the mounting bracket wouldn't go forward any more because of the fuel tank.

So I am turning to the TDRoundtable for HELP! I know my rear end was bottomed out. And I really don't want to do that again. I know I need to beef it up, but I am also curious How Much I can tow safely (CGVW).

Gordy Thomas
Greenfield, MN


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OK, I used to own a 95 2500 2wd CC. I pulled a very large 3 axle race car trailer (enclosed) and with 2 cars, parts, fuel, etc. I went over the scales at 24,000+ ... What I did to the truck's rear was, took it to a spring shop. For $200 they took my rear suspention appart, fabricated 2 extra leaf springs for each side, and reinstalled. The chief spring man did say that he didn't care for the drop off from one spring to the next on Dodges' stock springs... . too big of a gap that he felt could shear under heavy load and a rough railroad crossing! The result: the truck rode a bit stiffer when empty, and just floated down the highway with the trailer on! Good luck!

 

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BCFast's idea of the extra springs may be a good idea, but I also highly recommend the air springs.

I had Hellwig air springs on my '96 3500 4x2 for use with my Lance camper. They work great!! I had the in-cab control, so I could be sure they were at the right pressure, and make changes as needed.

I took them off when I traded the truck this week, but am hoping to put them on the new one once I confirm if they'll fit a 4x4 (I think they will).

The springs are good for up to 100 psi and will handle up to 5000 lbs of bed weight (not ADDITIONAL, but total). With my (approx) 4200# camper on the truck, and 100 psi in the springs, the truck sat perfectly level.

I don't know how gooseneck trailers work, but I would suggest that you try to balance it as well as you can to minimize the rear droop. Also be sure your tires are at their max inflation pressure and that they're at least Type E load rated tires. Heck, if it were me, I'd go to the 19. 5" G rated tires for the extra safety cushion.

I'm assuming you already have good shocks, but if not, get a set. They're worth their weight in gold.

AND... put in that power kit! You'll be amazed how much better the truck peforms with it, but be sure you have EGT and boost guages in there too

Rob

 

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Listen there my freind i haul a 42ft horse trailer all over the us from kansas to boston from canada to florida weighing from 15000 to 27000 pounds put some quality air bags in and put that **** tst power kit and rock on these dodges love to be torchered with weight and power any questions email me and good luck

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99 24v auto 3500 4x4 reg cab 3. 55 axle,va cpc,275 injectors,k&n,rhino lining, tinted glass guage set tonnoue cover heavy duty trailer tow set up goose neck hitch draw tite brake setup,cb,cd player,catz back up lights,amsoil frnt to back,jre exhaust power edge hot number three, pressure lock,bd exhaust brake,transgo shift kit, a pro torqe extreme convertor amsoil atf and a magtec trans cover and trans guage

 

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Here is what I did to improve my hauling capabilities: First I bought the truck with the camper and trailer packag, added Firestone air bags with the on-board compressor, Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks and the VA box. I just got back from a cross country trip with my 11. 5' 4,500 lb camper and it performed magnificently. Give it a try. (I also installed a 4" exhaust)

 

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Gordy:

Your hitch install is putting more weight on the tail of the truck and is not helping. Six inches forward is prefered. Most factory hitches should provide for this. If you don't have alot of $ in the current hitch change it out for a B&W.

If you have a choice keep as much weight on the trailer by stacking towards the rear of the trailer. You will never fish tail with a gooseneck and those tandom duels can handle it. Don't haul any more than you feel comfortable with, especailly in the braking department.

I agree with the airbags. Simple, adjustable and don't beat you to death when running empty.

jjw
ND

 

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here is the thing to do, buy a truck rated to haul the load you want to pull. I beleive the gcvwr gross combination is something not to be exceeded, its not as safe as having a truck that exceeds your needs.

this will draw flack from lots a people

Sure you can move the load, but how safe is it really
We dont want to tangle with overloaded trucks on the freeway, (semi or light duty)
we dont want to tangle with those speeding sports cars either
B... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .

 

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bicepts
I added load boosters to my 1996. I haul alot of weight in the back end of my truck, A v hopper salt spreader. Now when I got the truck it already had the beefed up springs and load booster were the next best thing. I do not like the air bags becasue of runing all the extra air lines and those always tend to leak on me after a while and it never failed to leak while under a large load and away from home. I got mine from AW direct and cost was very inexspencive compaired to the air bags. If you what their number please e mail me. and good luck

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1996 3500 4x4 extended cab daul wheel cummins 12 valve, 1999 3500 4x4 quard door extended cummins 24 valve both 5 speed and plow trucks even thow the 1999 is my baby and the 1996 is my beater.