Here I am

Towing ? witha new 600, thoughts?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

2" front lift on 4x4

shifting truck without clutch

Status
Not open for further replies.
My truck is being delivered to my house Saturday (Carsdirect).

It will probaly have 100 miles on it.

Sooooooo... ..... I have a enclosed trailer and have to go racing sunday 40 miles away. I can put my new brake controller on it saturday and run it around for awhile:D .

Should I wait and use a company truck to tow with or go for it?

It is a 6-speed so I figure maybe the clutch needs a little seat time for 500 miles?

Thoughts?
 
In owners manual it states to not tow anything for the first 500 miles. I think this is for the AAM rearend not the engine, but why risk it?
 
The break in is for the rear end only. The manual says to not tow in the first 500 miles then not over 50 mph for the first 500 miles of towing.



The engine needs to be worked to break it in.
 
My point exactly, sure the engine needs to be broken in, and done so under a load.



But are you going to write off your rear end. I would follow the guidance of the owners manual, why risk ruining the rear end.
 
i don't know about you guy's but i bought my truck. to tow with and have done that from day one. also i don't seem to have a lot the problems with mine that some guys have had. other than the ac evaporator at 2 years.
 
Originally posted by knewman

i don't know about you guy's but i bought my truck. to tow with and have done that from day one. also i don't seem to have a lot the problems with mine that some guys have had. other than the ac evaporator at 2 years.



I agree, pull it!



Too many lawyers makin rules these days. My first pull was around 10,000# for a 5,000 mile round trip through the mountains.



In all reality if the rear is going to fail it will fail either way.
 
break-in--

RaceBeeper;

Do you have any idea how the guy that delivers your truck is going to drive it? You know as well as I that when you were test driving one your self, you wanted to see how it would go, with no concern to babying the differential. If it were me, make sure all fluids are up and be gentle. stress is going to be the stop and go, and your trailer plus load isn't going to be that bad.

Ever go to an assembly plant and see how the finished product is driven out the door???? The new corvettes are floor boarded, if they break, to bad. Plus they put them on a Dyno, how hard can that be on that pristine auto.

just my penny's worth.

Marv.
 
Follow the advice of MA and Tri. for the same reason you don't put synthetic in a new engine. Parts need time to establish clearances so they will play nice for 300,000 + miles. Place a mit on the rear pumpkin after you drive it home from the dealer, and see if it's warm. Lawyers don't have much influence over the laws of physics...

Greg
 
My 97 ram cummins was delivered 3 day before my trip to Florida.

:eek: . I called cummins and they said to load it up and GO :D . I put a 24' trailer with 9 motorcycles + 2 motorcycles in the bed and ran to Daytona only stopping for gas. The truck had 410 gears so i was at redline most of the trip on I95 (1300 mile at 85). I never had a problem with that truck.

:cool:
 
Originally posted by Doubleclutch

Follow the advice of MA and Tri. for the same reason you don't put synthetic in a new engine. Parts need time to establish clearances so they will play nice for 300,000 + miles. Place a mit on the rear pumpkin after you drive it home from the dealer, and see if it's warm. Lawyers don't have much influence over the laws of physics...

Greg



Have to disagre. You can put synthectic in a new engine, it just takes longer to break in, and you are talking about two different thing. In an engine you are talking about rings that need to wear to finish of the cylenders, that is the break in.



For gears their really in no break in, they are either put in right or wrong. A wrong set up on gears will not get better with break in, it will get worse. The only thing that a break in can really do for them is put them through some heat cycles to stabilize them some what.



I have installed many a Dana ring and pinion and never "broke" them in. As long as they don't wine going down the road, hammer down.



The Lawyer thing I was refering to was this. They may be concerned about people buying these new truck and big 5th wheel for the first time and jumping on the high way going 70-80 with no experience pulling anything. The 500 at 50 give people time to get the feel for it. Just a thought.



In the end it is your choice, but I would pull it.
 
I don't care how hard someone drives a unloaded vehicle, pulling a trailer is a lot more stressful on a vehicle.



The main thing is how close you'll be to the GCVW and what type of terrain you'll be driving on.



If the terrain is fairly flat and you take it easy you should be fine, otherwise I would use the company tow vehicle and be patient with your new baby.



Also one more point to throw out there. My '91 W250 had a Dana 70 in the rear and I don't remember a break in period with that axle. Maybe someone should call a tech at AAM and see what their reasons are.
 
I would run the engine like you are going to drive it, don't baby it. That being said, I would follow the 500 recommendation for not towing, that is all about the axles, not the engine.



Dean
 
Here is some great info on the subject:



In most stock vehicles with stock tires there is seldom a risk of a burned gear set. For those of us who modify and use our trucks, there are many situations that can contribute to burned gear syndrome. Motorhomes, TOWING, tall tires, and high numeric gear ratios can all generate a lot of heat and cause the gear oil to break down. The greatest damage to a new gear set results when it has been run for ten minutes or more during the first 500 miles and the oil is very hot. Any heavy use or overloading while the oil is extremely hot will cause it to break down and allow irreversible damage to the ring & pinion.



In order to make them run cooler and quieter, new gears are lapped at the factory. However, they are not lapped under the same pressures that driving creates. The loads generated while driving, force any microscopic high spots on the gear teeth back into the surface of the metal. This is called "work hardening". Work hardening is similar to forging in the way that it compresses the metal molecules into a very compact and hard formation. This can only be accomplished if the metal surfaces are lubricated and the gear temperature stays cool enough that the molecular structure does not change. If the temperature of the metal gets hot enough to change the molecular structure, it will soften the surface instead of hardening it. This may seen like a balancing act but it all happens easily & passively as long as the oil keeps the gear cool while it is breaking in. Some of the synthetic oils on the market today can help a gear set live longer. These oils will continue to lubricate at temperatures where many crude oils break down.



Even with synthetic oils, break in is still recommended. After driving the first 15 to 20 miles it is best to stop and let the differential cool before proceeding. Keep the vehicle at speeds below 60 mph for the first 100 miles. It is also recommended to put at least 500 miles on the new gear set before heavy use or towing. During the first 45 miles of towing it helps to go about 15 miles at a time before stopping to let the differential cool for 15 minutes before continuing. This is necessary because not all of the gear tooth is making contact until it is heavily loaded. When towing, the teeth flex to contact completely, and cause the previously unloaded portion of the teeth to touch and work harden. All of this may seem like paranoia, but it is very easy to damage the ring & pinion by overloading before the teeth are broken in. If you take it easy on a new ring & pinion and keep it full of high quality oil, it should last a lot longer.



Do you really want to chance having problems with that expensive new truck? Gears require proper break in. Don't listen to haphazard responses and I would guarantee that not one of them is a Metallurgical Engineer. Why risk it.
 
LOOK AT THIS WAY

WHEN A COMPANY GOES BUY A FRIEGHTLINER RIG THEY DONT PUT 500 MILES ON IT BEFORE BREAK IN THEY LOAD IT UP WHITH A TRAILER AND CROSS COUNTRY SHE GOES. WHEN A FAMER BUYS A TRACTOR DOES HE PUT 500 MILES ON IT KNOW HE HOOKS UP HIS PLOW AND PLOWS THE FIELD. HOOF YOUR TRAILER UP AND PULL THE CRAP OUT IT THE OLE CUMMINS WELL LUV YOU LONG TIME FOR IT. MINE HAS AND HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM YET.
 
Okay this is 3rg generation. What works with 1st or second gen trucks is not gospel truth any more, things have changed -02= DANA 03+ = AAM Why risk having any problems 500 miles is a short weekend trip. Take it easy break it in. Like Dean said there is a logical reason to take it easy.
 
Re: LOOK AT THIS WAY

Originally posted by rdanley

WHEN A COMPANY GOES BUY A FRIEGHTLINER RIG THEY DONT PUT 500 MILES ON IT BEFORE BREAK IN THEY LOAD IT UP WHITH A TRAILER AND CROSS COUNTRY SHE GOES. WHEN A FAMER BUYS A TRACTOR DOES HE PUT 500 MILES ON IT KNOW HE HOOKS UP HIS PLOW AND PLOWS THE FIELD. HOOF YOUR TRAILER UP AND PULL THE CRAP OUT IT THE OLE CUMMINS WELL LUV YOU LONG TIME FOR IT. MINE HAS AND HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM YET.



You're not buying a Freightliner or a tractor. A tractor never exceeds 15MPH. Comparing your new AAM 11. 5 to a Freightliner with Rockwell axles is comparing apples to oranges... ... ... let's not get ridiculous now. :rolleyes:
 
WOW!!!

You all make very good points and I can agree with all of the them in one way or another. The decision for me is an easy one , since I have an able company truck at my disposle I will use it and let my new baby stay in the garage sunday.

Man , now I am kinda hoping for rain sunday LOL.



I didn't even really think about the rear, I probaly take more care in breaking those in on my race car's than the motor's that power them. My last race motor got 10 minute's of run time before it was in the burnout box doing 6000 rpm and making it's first pass.



Thanks for all the replies!

Keith
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top