toyota 22RE need help?

[CTait]

I had a a head gasket failure about two weeks ago. I had another head that I got the machining done on, with all new seals and valves. I had a huge lack of power before I had this problem and I couldn't get it to run smoothly. I have it all back together and it still wont run smooth, and I dont have any power increase. I did a compression test to make sure my rings were ok. They tested from 163 to 168. 170 is what they are rated when new. When I had it apart I put on a new timing chain and gears and am certain that the timing is right. I am wondering what other problems I might have. Any answers would be greatly apprecitated.

 

[Matt400]

Is it carbureted or EFI?

Where in the RPM range does it have the trouble and under what loads?

Also what throttle settings- ie: 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, WOT.

 

[Lorenz]

I did the same thing.



My distributor was off a couple of teath. It looked ok on a timing light but I was almost 180* off. Pull the distributor assymbly out and start over at tdc.

 

[Lorenz]

Opps. I miss read. You had lack of power before the head rebuild. I doubt it's the distributor/gear.

 

[MMeier]

I did the same thing.



My distributor was off a couple of teath. It looked ok on a timing light but I was almost 180* off. Pull the distributor assymbly out and start over at tdc.

What he said... What caused the HG failure in the first place? Getting ready to do a timing chain R&R on my '89 here soon... only about 320k on it! Truck that is... about 170k on the last chain.

 

[CTait]

It is EFI. and it runs rough at all rpm.

My thermostate failed and engine got hot, may have been the reason the head gasket failed.

 

[Matt400]

It is EFI. and it runs rough at all rpm.

So at idle then. . can you pull a wire on each plug while running to see if you can isolate a cylinder? (possibly one that doesn't make an rpm drop)

Be suspicious of the distributor cap, internal cracks can lead to crossfire inside the cap.



Being rough at all rpms that sounds like a misfire, compression is good so I would go after the ignition system first before fuel system as thats more common.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Ahh yes good 'ol Carbon Tracking. Know it well. I would also suspect the distributer cap. Hot engine=hot plugs=resistence=hot wires from added resist. =carbonshed under the cap. A buddy of mine's 1992 had a fuel rail that had corroded and caused a rough run. Drove us nuts as we were thinking of having the block line bored on the crank journals as we were figuring "Twisted block".



but before we let it get that far and tossed in a fuel rail we went ahead and solved that underpower issue. So we jammed a blown nitrous fed 5. 0 302 in the truck and called it a day ... well a few months anyhow after the lift , boggers and such but that is a different troubleshooting matter alltogether :-laf

 

[CTait]

I went after it with a vacuum guage, and descovered that my EGR is still functioning.

However vacuum pressure will increase and decrease slowly, within a 5 Hg range. (at idle). When RPM is increased vacuum pressure will decrease dramaticaly.

When you accelerate RPM quickly it sounds like it coughs or chokes from the airfilter. Is thier a possibility that my exhaust is clogged? Has anyone else had this kind of problem?

 

[Matt400]

When RPM is increased vacuum pressure will decrease dramaticaly.

Could be a clogged exhaust then. I would drill a small hole (one that you can plug with a sheet metal screw) in the exhaust just in front of the converter. Your vacuum gauge may have a pressure side to it. Simply hold the hose to the gauge up against the hole you made and have a helper stab the throttle once. If you get anymore than 1. 5psi then you have a restricted exhaust.



However to be so severely clogged that it would idle rough I would think you couldn't drive it at all. Your "rough" condition sounds to me like cylinder misfire.

 

[OKish]

what year? try to pull the codes, might also be a bad cts or amm.

 

[GOlsen]

You said you got all the machining done on the new head. Did you check to see if by chance the deck on the block was straight? Also, maybe you cracked the block when it overheated?

 

[scootergmc]

I went after it with a vacuum guage, and descovered that my EGR is still functioning.

However vacuum pressure will increase and decrease slowly, within a 5 Hg range. (at idle). When RPM is increased vacuum pressure will decrease dramaticaly.

When you accelerate RPM quickly it sounds like it coughs or chokes from the airfilter. Is thier a possibility that my exhaust is clogged? Has anyone else had this kind of problem?

I've had these symptoms before on my old '85... Here's my two cents:



1. Have you adjusted the TPS (I would start here)? Check out this page... good info: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml#TPSAdjustment





2. Did you adjust the valves after the head gasket change? I know you said it had the valves replaced, but I had an '85 22RE and had a head gasket go. It wouldn't run right until I had the valves adjusted again. It was weird. But that's what fixed the problem for me.

 

[OKish]

also if they took too much off the head, the valve timing could be off. maybe they adjusted the valves too tight?

 

[Matt400]

You would of course want to re-do the valve adjustment after removing the rockers for head removal. I like to do it on a warm engine, . 008" on the intakes and . 012" on the exhaust.



Loose valves make noise while tight ones make for an overly quiet valve train with rough idle.

 

[BFoughty]

I have a 1989 Toyota pickup that was having the same problem. It ended up being a sheared half moon key on the harmonic balancer. It would run good once in a while... then go to crap.

 

[CTieman]

How did you find out it was the half moon key?

 

[BFoughty]

How did you find out it was the half moon key?

I took it to a shop and a friend worked on it. He just happened to look at it while it was off and noticed it. stroke of luck i guess before he tore down the whole bottom end. We thought it was the crank.

 

[AKAMAC]

Sounds like valve timing. Try advancing your timing with the truck running, when the idle reaches a peak rpm, rev it and see if the coughing stops. Remember that the tensioner needs to be released before correct timing is checked. Sounds like your a bit retarded, probably a single tooth.

 

[ohnoitsyu]

I also had a 22R (actually, I've owned several 22Rs and REs). One problem that I can remember was bad spark plug wires. I replaced all the wires and the problem went away.



But like suggested, check for a dead or low-powered cylinder.



Oh yeah! The electronic fuel pumps in the tank were known to fail, causing poor performance before complete failure (sound familiar?). These were very expensive, from what I can remember. I think after saving an extra pump for over 13 years, I finally threw it away. Sorry.