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TQ lock up switch?

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Wondering if anyone else has had this problem/thought? My 05 dually 48RE tried to overheat the transmission in a long pull with the trailer. Because of road conditions I had to drop to 2nd gear for about 5 miles. Since the torque converter will not lock in 2nd, I'm assuming this is the cause of the heat. On our 12 valve autos a simple tq lock up switch solved all this problem, any idea of doing this on the 48 RE??



Thanks for any advice!!



Adam
 
I had exactly the same problem this week pulling my 12K 5th wheel up a long climb with so many sharp turns I could not keep my speed up. Trans temp hit 280 or so about 3 minutes before I reached top (using temp sensor in trans cooling line where fluid is at its max temp). Never had a trans temp light on dash though. No unusual or hard shifting either.



To be safe I am having complete fluid change & power flush tomorrow at dealer and having bands, etc inspected, although I am pretty sure the unlocked TC produced all the heat.



I was looking at some of the trans shift controllers but they are a little expensive and a simple manual lock-up switch would be nice as long as it does not cause problems with the ECM or throw codes. Hope we get some good info on this one!
 
Initially, that was my reason for getting a L/U switch but I soon realized that even with the gear selector in "2", my 47re would shift into 3rd once you let off the throttle... that's right, with the gear selector in "2". I thought there was problem so I called up DTT and they said I would need their TC controller in order to hold it in 2nd. Not willing to plunk down $400+ for that feature, I just try to maintian speed in 3rd locked... added more power to solve that. :-laf



Now I just use it for racing or for braking assist.
 
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JimBob24 said:
I was looking at some of the trans shift controllers but they are a little expensive and a simple manual lock-up switch would be nice as long as it does not cause problems with the ECM or throw codes. Hope we get some good info on this one!



It will throw a code. You need to remove a relay in the fuse box under the hood and use a jumper wire in it's place. No biggie though. Again this is with the 47RE so yours may be different.
 
My convertor locks in second :confused: I was pretty sure it did in my '05 as well. Of course different conditions breed different results. I am usually towing light but do have steep grades and a 25 mph speed limit, so I spend some time in the lower gears ;)
 
The TC should lock up in manual 2nd, at least mine does. However, if the speeds are to slow it may not lock all the time.



The manual lockup switch will work in all gears, will prevent down shifts, and will allow the trans to upshift. You don't need to pull relays or put in jumpers to keep from throwing codes. Simply wire a 33 ohm 1/4 watt resistor into the gound leg of the switch and tap the wire to pin #7 on the trans harness to the other side of the switch.



One word of warning, a locked upshift WILL challenge the integrity of the trans. Locked shifts at low rpms can cause the TC to start slipping and stress the input shaft.



Other than that, it works great. :cool:
 
cerberusiam said:
Simply wire a 33 ohm 1/4 watt resistor into the gound leg of the switch and tap the wire to pin #7 on the trans harness to the other side of the switch.







Now that's what I'm looking for! Thanks
 
cerberusiam said:
The TC should lock up in manual 2nd, at least mine does. However, if the speeds are to slow it may not lock all the time.



The manual lockup switch will work in all gears, will prevent down shifts, and will allow the trans to upshift. You don't need to pull relays or put in jumpers to keep from throwing codes. Simply wire a 33 ohm 1/4 watt resistor into the gound leg of the switch and tap the wire to pin #7 on the trans harness to the other side of the switch.



One word of warning, a locked upshift WILL challenge the integrity of the trans. Locked shifts at low rpms can cause the TC to start slipping and stress the input shaft.



Other than that, it works great. :cool:



Why do I need a 33 Ohm resistor?

Thanks for your time.
 
I tried the resistor thing. Wired it all up and nothing. Called ATS and they say it should and to take out the resistor. I did and still nothing. What am I missing?
 
What would be the difference in this and using a ats copilot?



The Copilot is a lot more sophisticated. It will unlock the TC when the speeds drop far enough. With a switch if you forget to unlock it will kill the motor at a stop.





Why do I need a 33 Ohm resistor?





The ECU monitors voltage AND resistance on these circuits. A high or low reading for too long will trip a code and set limp mode. The resistor provides enough of a ground to activate the solenoid while maintaining enough resistance the ECU thinks things are OK. The minimum resistance is pretty low, 5 ohms, so the only thing you really need to worry about is not going with too much resistance for the solenoid.





I tried the resistor thing. Wired it all up and nothing. Called ATS and they say it should and to take out the resistor. I did and still nothing. What am I missing?



Not sure. Did you:



1. Tap the wire from pin #7 on the trans connector? (yellow/light blue stripe I think)



2. Run the tap wire to one side of a switch.



3. Run a wire from the other side of the switch thru a resistor to a GOOD ground.



4. Test the circuit to make sure you have good connections.





Taking the resistor out and direct grounding on a 04. 5 and newer WILL cause a MIL light and limp mode. I suspect you do not have a good circuit to ground or you would have seen results.
 
Just finished mine and works great. Now I am going to take a couple of relays and wire them up so when I tap my brake pedal it will automatically unlock it till I push the button again. Hell of alot better than paying 574. 00 to ATS.
 
[/QUOTE]Not sure. Did you:



1. Tap the wire from pin #7 on the trans connector? (yellow/light blue stripe I think)



2. Run the tap wire to one side of a switch.



3. Run a wire from the other side of the switch thru a resistor to a GOOD ground.



4. Test the circuit to make sure you have good connections.





Taking the resistor out and direct grounding on a 04. 5 and newer WILL cause a MIL light and limp mode. I suspect you do not have a good circuit to ground or you would have seen results. [/QUOTE]



Yea, that's exactly what I did. I'm going to check my ground. That's gotta be it. Thanks.
 
Lockup switch

John Rodriguez did a thread on this issue. It was called something like,



"The difinitive lockup switch"



You could also pm him.



If it's not on the TDR then it will be on DTR.
 
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