Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Tq plate or no Tq plate?

[Blacksdieselhp]

Whats the difference in running a big plate virsus no plate? I've never ran without one? Is there a big difference? Pros and cons of each?

 

[JGheen]

What is a "big" plate?



If you have the ability to run plateless(ability to move a lot of air), then try it but pretty much anyone who runs no plate, is gonna have some serious EGTs as the governor lever will have nothing to stop on with no fuel curve and run FULL fueling at every RPM.

EGTs=

 

[Kernel]

This topic sparked a huge debate a few years ago. I don't know if the threads are still around, you may do a search for them. IMHO it's there for a reason.



Scott

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

Well, I referred to a big plate as being like a #5 for autos or #10 for manuals.

 

[JGheen]

Well, I referred to a big plate as being like a #5 for autos or #10 for manuals.

Ok, understandable. But I would rather run a #10 in an auto and a #5 in a manual, but then again, plates are not transmission dependent.

 

[pwerwagn]

..

Why would you rather run a #5 in a manual? If so, why do you have a #10 in yours? Just curious. I always thought a 10 was about a small (numerically) as anyone runs in a 215. Unless maybe your talking 94-95 manuals?

 

[Kernel]

Has anybody dynoed a production plate (5,6,10,11,etc. ), a zero plate, and no plate to figure possible horsepower gains/losses or advantages/disadvantages?

 

[JGheen]

Why would you rather run a #5 in a manual? If so, why do you have a #10 in yours? Just curious. I always thought a 10 was about a small (numerically) as anyone runs in a 215. Unless maybe your talking 94-95 manuals?

Well, I was thinking in terms of what plate would be nicer to the respective transmission. A #10, IMO, would not be as hard on an auto transmission as a #5 would be. Those were just the example plates he gave and I just threw out an opinion. And the reason I am not running a #5 is because I like the profile and verstility of the #10 as well as I don't want to adjust my governor lever. If I ever go to twins or at least some bigger injectors, I will eventually have to beef up the NV4500 some more than stock and maybe at that time I might switch to a lower plate, but plates aren't exactly cheap these days.

 

[pwerwagn]

...

I gotcha. That is what I had figured, and it makes sense too. I just thought I was missing something!

BTW- I love your truck. Lifted duallys look killer!

 

[1dslram]

The #5 with and auto makes a lot of extra smoke and no HP gain for the smoke. There are several trucks with the #10 over 500 HP and some over 700HP. I need to dyno but should be about 600 HP with the #10 plate. The #10 plate is the best all around plate stick or manual medium to high horse power. The advantage is this plate is it is more adjustable as you increase HP and don't need to change plates. As far as no plate the pump will travel beyond the usable range and loose HP the same as having the plate too far forward.

Joe Donnely who designed the #10 plate has dynoed with all of the available plate and some that arn't. The problem is there is no back to back tests and recorded results, but that would not be very usefull as differnt plates need different setups, timing, turbo, injectors, governor setting, etc.

Bruce

 

[Blacksdieselhp]

So I would be better off with a #10 plate ful forward than a #5 plate in my 97' auto?

 

[98rammer]

it's hard to say what plate is right because if a #4 and a #10 are in different positions, then they can make the same hp. it's all relative to position of the plate, position of the governor lever, gsk or not, and star wheel set up FOR the set up you want.

 

[chrleb1]

The #10 plate is about the easiest one to go with. Make sure you adjust your governor arm. Personally, I run a 0 plate and have a power adjuster. This allows me to cut back my power and smoke when i don't want it, and when i mess around i have full travel. With the no plate idea, some people have said they messed up their pump with that. There is a pin that keeps the rack from moving too far and i guess some people have made it fall out and takes out the governor and other stuff.

 

[JGheen]

The #10 plate is about the easiest one to go with. Make sure you adjust your governor arm. Personally, I run a 0 plate and have a power adjuster. This allows me to cut back my power and smoke when i don't want it, and when i mess around i have full travel. .

Power adjuster? What is this and how would you be able to adjust your power from inside the cab as I am interpreting this?

Also, can't you just move the plate back to hit the gov. lever if it is too far forward and not hitting it? When the lever moves forward, it does not go up or down until it hits the profile of the plate, correct? So, when one adjusts the lever, you are adjusting the lever to go up or down and obvioulsy when it moves forward, it will start higher or lower on the profile of the plate depending on the adjustment, right? Sorry, if I explained that a little



Joe

 

[Bob4x4]

You shape your torque curve (and EGTs) with the profile of the plate. If you dont want to dump a bunch of fuel where you cant burn it run a plate that will provide the correct amount under specific conditions.



ATS the turbo company makes a set-up that will allow you to adjust(lower) from inside the cab,cable operated. Another way is to use a valet switch,to kill the signal to the afc.



Bob