Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
http://www.blackhills.com/lindstad/
This setup rocks. Found this through another TDR member and was warned by another TDR member it was tricky to install. So I went by a random Dodge Dealership, explained what I was doing and asked if they had any trac-bars I could have to play with, they had a stack of them. Took three home to work with before I was ready to do mine for my truck.
Hints:
1. When grinding the cap off, remove the zerk first and grind with the grinder flat to the cap. Keep a water hose running to cool the end off otherwise the heat from grinding will melt the poly "spring" inside. Grind just until you see the circular ring where the body meets the pressed in plug. Then put the nut on the ball stud to protect the threads and knock it out with a hammer.
2. Use the edge of the grinding wheel to reduce ball end to accept the new cap (to be welded on later) You only need to grind down 1/8" or so. Keep checking to see if the cap fits before you grind too much.
3. Make sure you have a good rubber boot to assemble it with, the pickle fork used to remove the ball stud will tear these up. I think Prothane ( prothane.com or http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/truck_stop/parts/prothane.htm ) sells new ones.
4. Use the poly "spring" instead of the 3/4" lock washer.
5. Pre-grease it before assembly.
Hope this helps someone, sure is good to have a tight front end again.
Anyone have a front diff cover? My Lukes link almost beat a hole in mine
This setup rocks. Found this through another TDR member and was warned by another TDR member it was tricky to install. So I went by a random Dodge Dealership, explained what I was doing and asked if they had any trac-bars I could have to play with, they had a stack of them. Took three home to work with before I was ready to do mine for my truck.
Hints:
1. When grinding the cap off, remove the zerk first and grind with the grinder flat to the cap. Keep a water hose running to cool the end off otherwise the heat from grinding will melt the poly "spring" inside. Grind just until you see the circular ring where the body meets the pressed in plug. Then put the nut on the ball stud to protect the threads and knock it out with a hammer.
2. Use the edge of the grinding wheel to reduce ball end to accept the new cap (to be welded on later) You only need to grind down 1/8" or so. Keep checking to see if the cap fits before you grind too much.
3. Make sure you have a good rubber boot to assemble it with, the pickle fork used to remove the ball stud will tear these up. I think Prothane ( prothane.com or http://www.4x44u.com/pub/k2/am4x44u/truck_stop/parts/prothane.htm ) sells new ones.
4. Use the poly "spring" instead of the 3/4" lock washer.
5. Pre-grease it before assembly.
Hope this helps someone, sure is good to have a tight front end again.
Anyone have a front diff cover? My Lukes link almost beat a hole in mine
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