Track bar bolt at axle

[VolsFan]

got my truck aligned after new tires. Only thing wrong was the passenger side of the track bar at the axle had play in it. I put a 3rd gen track bar in it years ago. It’s a heim joint at the axle. Looks like the bolt threads are wore down, anyone have this issue? Apparently that part is on national backorder until December 30. There’s no dealers local to me that stock them. Just gonna band aid it til I can find a dealer that has it in my travels

 

[AEdelheit]

Its a 14mm bolt, you can use a 9/16" fine thread grade 8 and it will work too. If the joint was moving and hitting the threads then the bolt was loose, even if the bolt was a little undersized the joint should not be able to move on the bolt once tight so sounds like the bolt was loose causing that end to move back and fourth hitting the bolt.

 

[VolsFan]

Its a 14mm bolt, you can use a 9/16" fine thread grade 8 and it will work too. If the joint was moving and hitting the threads then the bolt was loose, even if the bolt was a little undersized the joint should not be able to move on the bolt once tight so sounds like the bolt was loose causing that end to move back and fourth hitting the bolt.

Great good to know, thanks for the info, I’ll go that route. Yes I agree likely was loose

 

[KATOOM]

Be careful... Heim joint are notorious for wearing prematurely and also making a lot of noise. They're allow more movement but they wear out faster. If the joint is worn then it will cause wear on the bolt.

 

[Ozymandias]

heim joint on a daily driver... oh no.

 

[VolsFan]

Thanks for the heads up. I got a 14mm x 2x70 bolt grade 8.8 from fastenal. Installed with my new impact and it tightened her up good. No clunking or funny noises and my steering is as good as my Malibu commuter car. I may have 50k on that track bar over a 6 year period.

 

[AEdelheit]

heim joint on a daily driver... oh no.

I have used FK heims on my track bar for years and they actully have a very long life span and work great though salt and corrosive ice control can shorten there life span. I would take a high quality heim joint over traditional Track bar bushings.

Cheap heims are notorious for wearing fast as is any cheap joint of any style, a worn heim will not wear the bolt if the bolt is properly torqued.

 

[AEdelheit]

Thanks for the heads up. I got a 14mm x 2x70 bolt grade 8.8 from fastenal. Installed with my new impact and it tightened her up good. No clunking or funny noises and my steering is as good as my Malibu commuter car. I may have 50k on that track bar over a 6 year period.

An impact is not a good idea, they dont always get bolts tight enough or they can overtighten them and stretch the bolt, 14mm bolts are not very strong so over-torquing them will cause problems too, FYI,

 

[JMcCoy]

I put mine in with an impact. The bolt loosened up and the tab nut fell off. I almost lost my front axle doing 80 mph. A couple more threads, and the bolt would of fell out altogether. It elongated the bolt hole in the axle. I now use a torque wrench to the proper torque specification. Almost a very expensive, and life threatening, lesson.

 

[Joe Mc]

Use anti-seize helps lub for correct tightening and easier removal next service

 

[RMcKinney]

Use anti-seize helps lub for correct tightening and easier removal next service

I'm pretty sure Torque requirements are for dry and clean threads.

 

[EDankievitch]

One Product for anything you don't want to vibrate loose -LOCTITE

 

[AEdelheit]

One Product for anything you don't want to vibrate loose -LOCTITE

Or just use proper torque spec, I have never had a Track bar bolt vibrate loose but have had to remove bolts that would have been much more difficult with Loctite.

 

[JMcCoy]

I now use blue Loctite on my track bar. A nut/bolt with blue threadlocker is easier to remove than rusted bare threads. I either put thread locker or anti-seize on every fastener. No dry fasters for me.

 

[AEdelheit]

Blue does work well, I hate when people cover everything in Red as it makes it very difficult to remove, granted that is the point but still a pain.

 

[Joe Mc]

I'm pretty sure Torque requirements are for dry and clean threads.

I'm pretty sure as well, but if you have a service item such as suspension components unless you like replacing nuts and bolts a little anti-seizee goes a long way. MHO

 

[JR]

Dry threads actually create resistance and can produce a "false" torque. Light viscosity oil is generally required to achieve proper torque, think head bolts, mains, etc. Putting together dry is a no no.
And depending on the brand of anti seize the torque coefficient can be all over the place. The biggest change I've seen, the copper based Bostik says reduce torque specs by 30%. That's HUGE. I personally use Chestertons nickel grade anti seize, it retains a much better viscosity in cold weather, seems like it resists wash out better than the copper grade, and has a zero coefficient meaning you don't have to worry about recalculating torque specs Everytime you use it on a fastener.