track bar failure?

[FDNYMOPARGUY]

I have been reading about these track bar failures and was wondering if a possible cause might be the installation of larger tires and/or lift kits. Any thoughts anyone?

 

[Steve Campbell]

I don't know about the lift kits...

but bigger tires to the front end steering componets is like more horsepower applied to the drivetrain.

 

[tmacc]

Bigger tires might be a contributor to the failure of the track bar, but they wear out pretty quick w/o any help all by themselves. My first one wore out at 26k, or I should say the dealer replaced it at that point. That one lasted about the same length of time. I just installed a Luke's Link last week and it works very well. I wouldn't let that prevent me from putting on larger tires if that's why your asking. IMO It's junk. So is the tie rod end at the pittman arm. Both of mine wore out together. Just keep an eye on them. If you start feeling a 'knock' thru the steering wheel, it's probably the pittman arm tie rod. Someone posted on here that Moog will have an after market one in a few months. Till then you can use a Luke's link there too. HTH

Tom

 

[The Sequel]

Dealer replaced mine at 26,000 also and I have stock tires and suspension. I've got just under 41,000 now and I can tell it's getting squirrelly again.

 

[KD7GYJ]

Had mine replaced at 12,000 miles. Dealer said everything is fine, had to show him wiggle in tie rod. Rides much better. Will put on the 285/76/16's on.



Blair

 

[Heetseeker_1]

junk

Most think that the failure is caused by the weight of the front of the truck and I tend to agree. Coupled with the fact that the components are not overbuilt with longevity in mind, a premature failure is certain. I took my track bar off and replaced the joint with a Lukes link, but when it was off I decided to see why it was even on my truck in the first place. With it on the workbench, I started the engine and turned the wheels R and L. The front of the truck lurched to either side but the tires don't turn much at all. This leads me to believe that the entire force of turning the wheels of these heavy trucks is on this small joint. It's obvious at this point that there was absolutely no overbuild factor in this part.



Having the dealership repair it under warranty is just putting off the real fix. Go aftermarket!



Remember, any movement of the joint is time for a fix. Have someone operate the steering R and L and see if yours moves, indicating the need for replacement.



Steve.

 

[BK]

A 99 2500 came into my buddies shop that other week. It needed a track bar. . 80K miles, his 1st track bar. He's had 305 tires on it for 50K miles. It was ooozzzing grease, so I know he greased it a lot. The owner is a General contractor and it's a work truck.

I was impressed. That's about the longest I think I've heard a track bar go. My buddy was backed up so I did the track bar for him. The owner of the truck didnt want the old one back so I kept the track bar to rebuild with one of the aftermarket kits... I figured I'll rebuild it and keep in on hand for when my dies.



Speaking of which... I know there's Luke's Link and I thought there was another... ???

 

[clanders]

Putting a lift on the front of your truck will increase the angle that is put on the ball joint, that is on the upper section of the track bar eventually causing it to wear out. Mine wore out with a 2" lift in 16000 miles. I replaced it with a moog track bar, which has a life time warranty, and a bigger ball joint. Hope this helps.

 

[Kraut67M]

I replaced my OEM at 50K miles with a Moog DS1413, because truck was wandering. Three days later I noticed the knock in the steering wheel. Further investigation showed the track bar moving 1/4 inch at the bushing end. Put on another Moog. Now the steering wheel is 45 degrees to the left of center. The only way that can happen is if the track bar is too short. Measured another onw at the part store, same too short. Now going to the dealer to get one. Will also order the tie rod end that connects to the pitman arm, as there is some play there. Future track bar will be a DT. Good luck in your replacement.



My truck is all stock and original except for trackbar.



Kraut

 

[MidwestMotorman]

My 99 had a new hub, trackbar, and steering links at 7ooo miles.

 

[DAB]

Have 106,000 on original 94 just starting to get loose now. Hasn't been babied at all

 

[BK]

DAB, how often did you grease it?

 

[MidwestMotorman]

Since I had everything new, I grease mine every oil change. A couple squirts will do. You will notice when the cups fill up with grease so you don't shoot it everywhere.

 

[BK]

ya, I grease mine every oil change too. I'm at 30K miles or so and track bar is still real tight.



There were some track bars that were never torqued down by the factory, correctly, according to one mechanic I know. That would explain some real early deaths.



I was just wondering how much DAB greased his with getting 100k+.



A friend of mine with a 1500, gasser 95, 3. 5" lift , is going thru them every ~35K-40K. But he doesnt grease a thing.

 

[Joe Mc]

Am I misunderstanding that you can rebuild the stock track bar???? Sounds cheaper thant buying a new on for sure?



How much for the Lukes Link (Website?) Vs the Moog (FM) what are the benefits? Sorry just learning about the Dreaded Track Bar the one on my 85 Toyota 4X (strait front axel) had an adjustment. You would remove a cotter pin then tabe a big flat blade screwdriver tighten it and reinsert the cotter pin till next time. Is this similar to the Lukes Lin or the Moog units?

 

[BK]

Joe Mc ,

Yes you can rebuild a stock trackbar with one or more aftermarket kits. I THINK, the kits cost from 125 up to 200, but not sure. And I'm not sure the pro's and con's of the different kits. . hence why I ask too.



Lukes links , from what I remember, is the easiest todo. If you have a good grinder... the rest is easy if you can replace a track bar yourself. I think one or more of the others require welding or fabricating of somesort. . or a "core"... you can buy one done, but gotta give them a bad one for them to rebuild.



The aftermarket track bar mod kits are supposed to have better "ball joint" ends, which is the thing that wears out on the stock bar.

 

[DAB]

BK

I grease joints every oil change(3500-4000 miles). I think I've been quite fortunate with this truck,I haven't touched 5th gear yet and I pull 20,000 to 25,000GVW quite a bit. Didn't even know about 5th gear problems until a couple years ago when I started reading TDR website. I used to pull down below 1500rpm in 5th,and pretty much haven't had alot of the problems I read about on here.

 

[dseabaugh]

trackbar

My truck had 5 dealer installed trackbars under warranty in 4 years under 70K miles and was still stock all the way through. they are under designed junk. Look at the Ford bar and you will see Chrysler was using popsycle sticks off Geos instead

 

[BK]

DAB, thanks for the feedback.





dseabaugh ,

well it's the ball joint that goes bad... not that the bar is a popsicle stick off of a GEO

2ndly... Fords dont have a track bar in the front end. neither do GEOs

 

[Kraut67M]

Originally posted by Kraut67M

I replaced my OEM at 50K miles with a Moog DS1413, because truck was wandering. Three days later I noticed the knock in the steering wheel. Further investigation showed the track bar moving 1/4 inch at the bushing end. Put on another Moog. Now the steering wheel is 45 degrees to the left of center. The only way that can happen is if the track bar is too short. Measured another onw at the part store, same too short. Now going to the dealer to get one. Will also order the tie rod end that connects to the pitman arm, as there is some play there. Future track bar will be a DT. Good luck in your replacement.



My truck is all stock and original except for trackbar.



Kraut

Here is an update on the steering wheel off center due to length of trackbar. Installed new OEM bar from dealer ($285 ouch) and the steering wheel is not quite centered, but better than before. I guess there is quite a bit of tolerance on the lenght of these things? Now on to the next problem... .



I have a slight knocking in steering wheel which is barely noticable when I drive short distances. When I drive longer distances, the knocking becomes really noticable. I can feel it when driving over small bumbs or even when I amstopped and let the truck roll backward/forward and step on brakes, ie i compress the springs slightly. The steering components appear to be tight except for the pitman shaft has slight side movement. I do not know if this is normal? anyone have ideas?