Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Yo Hoot
TDR MEMBER
CAUTION... the pictures in this thread may offend experienced welders!
There is a design issue with the mounting of the track bar to the frame on these trucks. With normal size tires you may never experience issue but I run heavy 10 ply 35 x 12. 5 x 17 tires all the time.
I have a huge aftermarket adjustable track bar that has a large heim joint on the axle end and a poly bushing at the frame.
The problem is the lateral forces generated by the track bar at the frame mount tends to overcome the clamping forces of the bolt/bushing/frame. The steel bushing inside of the poly bushing doesn't have much cross sectional area on the ends so there isn't much being clamped on.
The bushings starts moving side to side while the bolt starts wearing as do the holes in the frame. Before you know it you've got 1/8" of movement everytime you change steering direction. You can re-tighten it but it eventually starts moving again.
Source Automotive (Rip Rook) has a low cost kit that comes with two 1/4" thick special washers and a new longer bolt.
You remove the frame end of the track bar, install the washers with the supplied bolt and weld the washers in place.
Reinstall the track bar and you're done. Can't get much easier than that.
Made a huge difference in highway tracking. Hopefully this will be a non-issue from now on.
I pulled the bump stop out to get more room to weld the back side.
There is a design issue with the mounting of the track bar to the frame on these trucks. With normal size tires you may never experience issue but I run heavy 10 ply 35 x 12. 5 x 17 tires all the time.
I have a huge aftermarket adjustable track bar that has a large heim joint on the axle end and a poly bushing at the frame.
The problem is the lateral forces generated by the track bar at the frame mount tends to overcome the clamping forces of the bolt/bushing/frame. The steel bushing inside of the poly bushing doesn't have much cross sectional area on the ends so there isn't much being clamped on.
The bushings starts moving side to side while the bolt starts wearing as do the holes in the frame. Before you know it you've got 1/8" of movement everytime you change steering direction. You can re-tighten it but it eventually starts moving again.
Source Automotive (Rip Rook) has a low cost kit that comes with two 1/4" thick special washers and a new longer bolt.
You remove the frame end of the track bar, install the washers with the supplied bolt and weld the washers in place.
Reinstall the track bar and you're done. Can't get much easier than that.
Made a huge difference in highway tracking. Hopefully this will be a non-issue from now on.
I pulled the bump stop out to get more room to weld the back side.
