2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Track Bar Tool ???

[Mundgyver]

Ok, I have made the jump and have gotton the Solid Steel 3rd Gen mount adapter to put the 3rd Gen Track bar on my outfit. I have read the threads on the subject and looked at what is involved. It is not rocket science and I have everything I need save one item



The Puller is listed as a C-4150A in the service manual. DC wants an enormous amount of money of one these gold plated jewels :{ Close to $300 which is absolutly nuts.



The guys down at Napa are trying to find one with the number provided. I have called a local tool supply and they have one at $246.



Did I miss something This is just a tool with $6 worth of metal in it.



So with the tool being as costly as the track bar, does anybody have something or can anybody guide me to a reasonable priced tool that will do the job.



I am not interested in just pounding this thing out. I would like to ease it out as would be the case for using the right tool for the job.

 

[NLofton]

A GOOD Air Chisel with the proper fork will work good and wont hurt a thing.

 

[Mundgyver]

I have an air chisel and the method would be how

 

[NLofton]

They make different size forks just like the ones you hit with a hammer to separate ball joints and tie rod ends that will work in a air chisel. I got mine off the Mac Tool truck i believe.

 

[Mundgyver]

Guess I will see what I can find that fits. Thanks for the tip

 

[Signal73]

Oh yeah, I used a Lisile pickle fork set from pep boys, I think it was around $40 for a set with 3 diff. sizes in it. Didnt even affect the boot on the ball joint, popped it out no problemo.

 

[Mundgyver]

Yep this is good. That is what I like aobut TDR, lots of tips and tricks that work.

 

[Fishin Guide]

If you don't have a pickle fork, you can sometimes get the bar to seperate with a few well placed blows from a heavy ball peen hammer. Loosen the nut so that it will kepp the bar from falling on your head, but still allow it to drop.



Smack the area that the bar is "pressed" into.



You would be surprised how often this will work. You have to work your way around the mount, but it will come loose. BTW, I have done 3 this way.



I did have to break out the pickle fork one time. And even after driving it in, it still required the same technique to get it to release.



Dave

 

[Mundgyver]

This is good, Thanks

 

[Dave M]

I used the Leslie brand Pickle fork set (3 forks in the set) from Pep Boys for around $40. The forlks looked to be made well. . not like some of the cheap China stuff from Kragen.



Did it in July and it was the first time I even seen a pickle fork being a newbie at this. It popped off no problem. Rebuilt the track bar with Lukes Link. I plan on going with 3rd gen track bar too. Let us know how the job goes and the difference in steering and road feel response.



Dave

 

[Jeff Knight]

When I did mine I loosened the nut on the track bar. Then i took a blunt end in the air chisel and drove the ball end out. It took no time to get it out. Jeff

 

[Mundgyver]

Have Camera, will post pics of the process Tommorow is the day for this to happen. Oo.

 

[Signal73]

Good tip on keeping the nut on the last few turns, when I did mine my leg got clobbered.

 

[JKinney]

Carquest has a 1" fork for 12. 00

 

[KKunz]

I used a pitman arm puller when I did mine it worked great

 

[nps]

Used Autozone's free fork - 2 hits and its off.

 

[McCRam]

I had a hard time removing mine. I had to persuade it with a tamping bar. A couple of smacks on the bolt end popped it out.

 

[McLaughlin]

Pretty straight forward once I figured out the pickle fork I was using was to small to go around the tie rod bolt(ended up using a 15/16 pickle fork).



You might look at a discussion titled Steering Woes. We had quite a discussion about the 3rd Gen trackbar install, DSS install, and a Luke's Link install.

 

[NVR FNSH]

A long drift/punch on the end of the threaded stud and ball peen hammer worked both times for me. Who cares if you screw up the threads on the bad track bar... .



Brian

 

[Mundgyver]

Well I got it done. I used a pickle fork, first time I have used one, works good. I had been reviewing the Steering woes thread. Hardest part was the frame hole for the ear. The 5 inch bolt was not long enough that they included with the kit. So I went down and got a 6 inch and that allowed me to put a washer on top, 3 between the bracked and the frame and one under the nut. I used a 10,000 lb ratched tie down to hep bring the axle over to alignment so I could put the bolt through. Overall I am very pleased with the 3rd gen part. I did not have to elongate any holes. I did have to grind out the verticle hole bottom of the frame for the ear, as when the factory put the frame together there was some overlap that needed to be cleared, but that was it. I should have done this along time ago.