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traction bars

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shawn huizenga

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Hey guys, I’ve got a couple questions about traction bars. I’d like to put a set on my 2001 ¾ ton 4X4 longbed. I can’t decide which ones to get. I did a search on traction bars and pretty much decided on putting on a set like Steve St. Laurent markets, but later found out he doesn’t produce them anymore. My main reason for liking those is because it’s up out of the way, and wouldn’t get hung up on anything. My next choice would be the RCD traction bars, or any other for that matter, but how much do these standard style bars hang up when going over terrain/through snow? Also, would a set like the RCD bars allow full range of suspension travel without binding, such as when towing? Thanks in advance for your replies, they’re much appreciated



Shawn
 
I have two trucks now, and both sport traction bars. I think anytime you add something to the rear of the truck in hopes of controlling it's behavior, you are going to give up some things in that area. it's a compromise, you ask the traction bars to keep the rear springs from wrapping up in certain situations like take offs and during backing. They also help in other areas like control over bumps, but yes they will cause some bind in certain spots. The key is to minimize that compromise, and get enough positive response to off-set the negative.

My Ford truck runs a set of FabriTech traction bars, they are a nice set and not that expensive. I Had a bad time whenever I went over several bumps in a row, especially in a corner. The rear would dance around and the result was bad ride and loss of control. The bars fixed that, they also fix the problem of the springs wrapping up when backing. I have large tires on it and for , the bars where necessary. On the Dodge, I didn't have such a sever need for them, It never steeped out in the corners like the Ford, but I did like the way it helps with control. I also have to back a very large and heavy trailer, and they make it much more enjoyable.

There are at least 4-5 sources for traction bars to fit your Dodge. FabriTech has two, Tuff Country has a set, Rancho and FabTech both have a set, though they might not be listed as for your model. Pro Comp and a few others offer traction bars for the Dodge as well. I wouldn't get to caught up on any of them, basically they will all do the same thing, you are not in competition or scorching the desert in the Baja 1000. On mine I used the Rancho line, they did not offer one for the Dodge but I made the rear mount and they worked fine. I had used them in the past, and liked the simple, but strong and clean look. Good luck and post your results.



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I have to disagree yknot. If they are properly designed there are no negatives. I have taken my truck rockcrawling and had no problems at all. When we designed them we tested crossing up the suspension with a large forklift and had exactly the same amount of crossed up suspension travel with the bars on as I did with them off - both with and without the sway bar. My rear suspension works better than it did stock in every way.
 
I heard some negatives a while back about some people cracking their frame? Dont remember exactly off hand. Anyway I got Kurt Yardley's version. It's a different concept, it's basically a single piece that mounts over the top of the pumpkin and is braced by a single bar that attaches to the bed frame. I havent installed it yet because my custom dual exhaust is in the way. When I put the stacks on I'll get the bar on. I know I didnt explain it well but I'll see if I can get some pics of it posted tomarrow.
 
That happened to myself and one other person. I made some improvements (doubler plates) and posted it on the site. The problem hasn't resurfaced and it never affected the function of the rear suspension which was what I was speaking to. AFAIK noone else has made the changes and I've heard of noone else having the problem since either.
 
I have the Fabritech that I am currently working on. Not to challenge Yknot but last time I checked with Fabtech they did not make a bar for our truck. I talked with them and they offer nothing for the dodge. Anyway the Fabritech bars will work fine but when and if you order these make sure you get the right parts, I did not and they would not replace them with the correct ones even though they admitted it was there fault, because I was past the 30 return policy. Something happened where I did not get to install them when planned. I purchased them through NTW. So I cut up the brackets and made my own. Now I just want to check the range they will travel through to make sure they will not bind.

Question for Steve or Rob, I was told if I keep the angle in line with the drive shaft I should have no binding problems, sounds reasonable to me? Any comments. I'll post how they come out when I'm done.
 
It really depends on the length of the bars as to what the angle needs to be. As the axle moves upwards relative to the frame it move rearward and rotates rearward. This is due to having a stationary mount at the front and a shackle at the rear. The angle and length of the bar have to be proper so that as the axle moves up it also moves rearward the proper amount. That's why your driveshaft has a slip joint at the front of it - to account for that movement. I would assume that fabritech has worked that geometry out and that for their length bar it is the same angle as the driveshaft if that's what they told you.
 
I prob ally confused the issue some, FabTech does make bars for the Dodge, just only the 1500 series. Which would not stop me from running the bars. I run the Rancho bars and they do not make anything for the Dodge Ram, mine were for a Chevy, I just changed the rear mount some. You may be right about the traction bars not interfering with the rear suspension , I don't know. But I think anyone that runs a typical traction bar would disagree, they do interfere with the movement of the rear end. Yours might not have?? Really is makes no difference for the typical user anyhow, Most will never venture off the pavement, and when they do it will be a dirt road or running over their grass lawn. The needs of a competition suspension or extreme sport suspension is not what I was referring to, The Dodge Ram with a Cummins is not the type of vehicle to compete in those sports, nor would most even contemplate that action. My comments are for the 99% of owners that use there trucks on a daily bases pulling normal loads or commuting on hard packed roads or highways. Nothing extreme here, just want to get their and back home again safely and in style.



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Actually Fabritech never returned any of my calls to swap out for the right parts. I gathered the info from other sources. I understand all the geometry and the way it all works but I was a little confused when the fabritech bars were way off in regards to the angle of the driveshaft. If the mounts were right it seemed as if there was no angle at all in the bars, they almost lay flat from front to back. I'm starting to think I got the wrong kit all to together, so now just trying to make them work. Before I mount them permanent I will do a few test to make sure there not going bind. I still would like full travel without binding cause I do use my truck as a 4X4. I did mean that Fabtech does not make it for our truck meaning the CTD 2500. I do realize they make it for a 1500.



Thanks for the info Steve. I'll make them work, or they see the junk pile which would suck for a brand new set of bars.
 
My main concern with traction bars is allowing nearly full rear suspension travel so that when towing heavy loads the suspension isn't binding. My second concern is a bar that mounts below the rear differential causing extra drag when running through deep snow, in which case the bars such as Steve used to produce would be perfect for my application. My next choice would be the RCD bars, if i were confident they would produce minimal or no suspension binding I would get those. Thanks for your replies.



Shawn
 
ynot



just to let you know the ranchos don't work well under heavy loads like sled pulling. a couple of years ago there was a picture showing the bars had flexed in the middle about 6".





mediccummin

i used to run the fabritech bars when i had my dana 70. when i switched it out for a 80 they wouldn't work any longer. these ladder style bars work great, i have the model that are rigid. i think they were they heavy duty model.



jim
 
Thanks CUMINN, I believe that I received the brackets for the Dana 80 instead of the Dana 70, I am working on making them work though. Did you have any binding problems with the angle. Now that I have modified the brackets to work they will be mounted to the bottom of the axle instead of the top, about a 3" difference in location per the mods. So therefore I have changed the angle slightly in the rear, I also am attempting to mount the front mount higher than original location, because they hang to low in the front and make the angle almost flat. My current angle is even with the drive shaft. Going to mess with it a little and make sure they will work before installing. Any input would be great thanks.....
 
I wonder is one could modify those Rancho traction bars to be used for control arms for 4-link air ride?



I am throwing together 4-link but don't need Heims or a ton of travel...
 
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MEDIC



the ones that i have mount with u bolts around the axle. the bars actually mount to the front of the axle tubes. not the top or the bottom.



jim
 
Gotcha so they are not the same ones I have, but I know which ones your talking about. Thanks again for the info. I put one side on today just to test them, got the rear suspension pretty twisted, almost to max before the springs rested on the stops, and the bars seemed to do fine. I could still grab it and move it back and forth a little, what I mean is they were not tightened up yet. I would think if they were binding they would be tight and my suspension wouldnt travel that far. So far so good, and my mounts I know are much stronger now than when I got them. Let ya all know how it comes out in the end. Later
 
I had the Ranchos on my '01 Ram 4x2 and was very disappointed with them. Both ends of the shaft are rigid and don't swivel for articulation (when one tire is higher than the other) so they use soft bushings on them, which renders them a lot less effective at controlling wheel hop.



I'm starting to check into traction bars for my '96 4x4 and looks like Rob Thomas' setup is the ticket. Also saw some from Michigan Performance Diesel, not sure if those are the same or not?



Vaughn
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
looks like Rob Thomas' setup is the ticket. Also saw some from Michigan Performance Diesel, not sure if those are the same or not?



Vaughn





Howdy Vaughn,



Yes, those are the same... ..... Michigan Performance Diesel= Rob Thomas :)





Rob
 
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