Tractor Electrical Problem

[tugboatphil]

The tractor is a MF 1250, which is actually a variant of the Iseki TA-230. 3 cylinder diesel with a preheater hooked into the start switch. My electrical troubleshooting skills are those of a trained monkey doing brain surgery, although I can use a multi-meter with some success.

I was brush hogging last week and the PTO stopped. I was making a turn to head back towards the shop and I looked at my gauges and noticed they were dead. Figuring it might be something out of the ordinary, I headed to the shop. When I turned the key off, she was still running, so I pushed in the plunger on the shut off solenoid to kill the engine. I now have no juice to the switch or gauges, or lights.

My battery tested good, but I'd had problems with it last winter and it's 6 years old, so I got a new one. Took the cable ends to the wire brush wheel and cleaned them up and sanded the ground spot on the chassis to a shiny surface. Chopped the end off the ground cable to check for internal corrosion and redid the clamp.

I get over 12v to the starter, and on the alternator. There is a 40 amp fusible link just past the alternator, and it is still intact. The harness is taped beyond this point and I've not had the time to seperate wires and trace them.

I'm guessing that I should have 12v somewhere at the switch? Any ideas as to how the juice isn't getting to the dash area?

Thanks for any help!

 

[B.G. Smith]

This is a shot in the dark. Look at the starter solenoid where the battery cable connects, there should be another wire connected to that terminal that powers the accesories on the tractor(switch, shutdown solenoid, etc. ) That wire will be fused somewhere, could be fusable link. Most likely place would be at the controls (switch) for the tractor. Hope you get it worked out. bg

 

[Wingate]

The tractor is a MF 1250, which is actually a variant of the Iseki TA-230. 3 cylinder diesel with a preheater hooked into the start switch. My electrical troubleshooting skills are those of a trained monkey doing brain surgery, although I can use a multi-meter with some success.



I was brush hogging last week and the PTO stopped. I was making a turn to head back towards the shop and I looked at my gauges and noticed they were dead. Figuring it might be something out of the ordinary, I headed to the shop. When I turned the key off, she was still running, so I pushed in the plunger on the shut off solenoid to kill the engine. I now have no juice to the switch or gauges, or lights.



My battery tested good, but I'd had problems with it last winter and it's 6 years old, so I got a new one. Took the cable ends to the wire brush wheel and cleaned them up and sanded the ground spot on the chassis to a shiny surface. Chopped the end off the ground cable to check for internal corrosion and redid the clamp.



I get over 12v to the starter, and on the alternator. There is a 40 amp fusible link just past the alternator, and it is still intact. The harness is taped beyond this point and I've not had the time to seperate wires and trace them.



I'm guessing that I should have 12v somewhere at the switch? Any ideas as to how the juice isn't getting to the dash area?



Thanks for any help!

dunno... but i just watched your 5+ minutes of fame... . thats friggin awesome!!!. .