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trailer batteries

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Duramax BS!!!

Painless auxilliary fuse blocks

Im just cleaning up my trailer for use this summer. The batteries are about 2 years old. I leave the trailer plugged into AC all year which keeps the batteries generated (dont know if thats good or not)



The only thing running is the refrig. (sometimes) and the gas sniffer. Do you think my batteries are still good for dry camping ? Is there a way to test them (without going out for the weekend and finding that the batteries dont last thru the weekend )
 
Well, you COULD simply unplug it right where it's at, and run a few lights and accessories to see how well the batteries hold up - you don't HAVE to be actually camping to test the batteries... ;) :D
 
batteries

Yeah, yeah, I know. But I dont remember how long they should last with the radio and lights on. When they were new, I can remember camping for 3 or 4 days without any problem. But I dont have a feel for how long I left the lights on at night etc.



Besides, there must be a much more diffucult way to test them. Ive never been accused of doing things the easy way
 
The best test for batteries is a load test. Turn on the lights and see how it does. Check the water level if they are servicable type batteries. If you can tell us a bit more about the batteries, we can help determine a load test and how long they should last.



How many batteries?

What brand?

What Size?

12v or 6v?

Amp-Hour rating would be very usefull.



Enjoy camping.
 
pull the batteries from the camper, make sure they have a full, slow charge, then take them to your local Sears auto center. Ask the service manager for a battery load test, they have a tester that does this, and where I live, SE Virginia, it's a free test, because they just might sell me a new battery. If they don't test well, replace them with deep cycle batteries, charge them at least overnight BEFORE you ever use them--no battery comes off the shelf with a true 'full' charge, and they have a 'memory', which means the charge you start with is all the potential charge they will ever accept. I always do this, and have had very good life from the batteries I've used in camper and truck.
 
FWIW - the best test of a battery is to get a hydrometer and test the specific gravity of each cell in each battery. At full charge, you should see a specific gravity of 1. 275 - 1. 300. If they are not all equal, you need to perform an equalizing charge (aroud 14 volts) until all of the cells are at an equal state of charge as measured by the hydrometer. If you cannot get them to come to the same level, you have a weak cell and should replace the battery. Actually, it is a good idea to replace them in pairs.



Make sure the batteries are out of the RV before you do the equalizing charge (takes a special charger). 14 volts may harm some of the electronics in the RV.



Check this website for further information: http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq4.htm#hydrometer



The load test is designed for starting batteries - not deep cycle batteries. In deep cycle batteries, the load tester is most useful for removing the surface charge you will have by being plugged in all of the time.



Good luck & happy dry camping.
 
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Just was talking to my service mgr at the trlr dlr where I get all my servicing and repairs done. He told me to disconnect the batteries when I'm not camping as there is a small current drain from the propane detector. Also told me there is a small current drain from the fridge even when it is turned off.



He said to not plug in the trlr until a few days before going camping unless the trlr will be sitting for a long time. Then plug it in every 3-4 weeks just to charge the batts. Same in the winter as a battery won't freeze unless it is in a dischaged state. According to this I've been doing it wrong all this time!

Larv
 
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