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Trailer brake adjusting?

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Going Northeast

Looking for a good deal on trailer axles

Hi Guys,



Need your help with this adjusting question for my electric trailer brakes. :rolleyes:



Just got my new fiver weighing in at about 10K dry.

I am trying to get the brakes adjusted, so my Prodigy will lock up at 25mph like the instructions say. Best I could get on this new trailer (stock) was a moderate slow down with full manual brake applied with the Prodigy. They work OK on Boost level 2-highest setting, but probably could be better.



Just checked the star wheel adjuster on all four Dexter axles with electric drum brakes. They all went about 24 clicks to the tight side before the wheel stopped turning (one handed from underneath). The instructions say to tighten until very diffcult to turn then "back off until wheels turn freely with a slight lining drag". I backed off 3 clicks and the wheel turned one full rev before it stopped.



My question is, how far should I loosen the brakes, to avoid overheating them but still get good braking?



Your advice and experiences would be very helpful.



Thanx :D

Joe
 
I usually back off five clicks from the point where the wheel will no longer turn by using hand pressure. Works for me and my last five trailers. Depending on the gauge of the wire in the trailer, you may never achieve lock up. I never have. As long as you have good brakes that is usually all you can hope for.



Casey
 
Thanks Casey,



Sounds like 5 clicks would just about be one full turn of the adjusting screw. If it worked on 5 trailers for you, I guess it should work for me too. :D



Anyone else out there adjust their own brakes? :rolleyes:
 
I hooked up my Prodigy and tried to adjust per instructions. Never could get a 6. 0 on the readout as instructed. Never did get "lock up". Since I was in the mtns and had to get my trailer down a 6-9% grade, I used the manual handle. I was anxious at first, but the Dodge handled the trailer better than my old 90 5 speed. I will try to troubleshoot it next spring or say to hell with it and go as it is. I did have it on max "boost" I thought the Prodigy was much better than my old Tekonsha brake controller. Have my doubts now. Seems to be more trouble than the price was worth!! Wish I had kept the old controller!
 
I think if everything was right you should be able to lock up the trailer wheels. Thats kind of like you saying you cant get your truck to stop right, you wouldn't leave it that way? so don't leave the trailer like that. It's very, very important to have good, working, brakes on a trailer. There are just to meany nuts out there who don't think ahead, or give alittle room. If your trailer will not lock the brakes, then find out why. I have a 36' tri-axle, about 12,500lbs, and it will lock the brakes. I use a prodigy controler, and it should not matter it you have another brand. Also most trilers come with #12 guage wire, some #14, and that should be enough size to work.
 
It seems like the most common failure mode of brake controller's is that they just get weak. Seems like I'm lucky to get 3 or 4 years out of one and then it's junk.
 
:confused:



Most of the replies were good. Another thing to look out for is the newer trailers coming out either have the Hayes or Dexter axles. I have had both and found that the star wheel adjusts in the opposite directions. An improper direction of loosening and tightening can result here. On the Hayes the star wheel rotation adjusts down to tighten, whereas the Dexter adjusts up.



Chuck Goode
 
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trailer brake lockup

I don't think you really want to lock up the trailer brakes under any conditions. When you do you may get a free jackknife, and I don't mean one you can whittle with!
 
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