Trailer Brake Controller Problem and Questions

[KOwens]

Hello TDR Gurus,



I've had my 2010 Ram diesel with the integrated trailer brake controller for about two months now, made three trips (each over 1,000 miles towing) and the EVIC constantly tells me to "Check Trailer Brake Wiring" and chimes at me every second or so. When this happens, it also seizes the EVIC display so I can't contiue to monitor something important like transmission temperature. To say this is annoying would be an understatement. I used an aftermarket controller in my '95 for 15 years with no, none, zero problems using the exact same travel trailer that I'm towing now with my 2010.



I've taken the time to completely clean the trailer plug (connector) with NeverDull and it looks like new. I also used some dielectric grease on the contacts to keep that "like new" appearance and reduce tarnish on the contacts.



Does anyone out there in TDR-land know what is wrong with my truck's controller? Trailer lights and charging are all fine. I'd like to get your collective advice before taking it to my local dealer (who I have little or no confidence in their troubleshooting skills).



Thanks, Kevin

 

[matkinson6054]

I have the same problem with my truck. I dont know what the problem is but it would only do it now and then on my truck. It is very annoying and I actually just left the trailer unplugged a couple times for the two miles I had to move the trailer down the road.

 

[RonD]

If it does it all the time, see if the dealer can look at it with the trailer connected, if it does it with them driving it it will be easy to pinpoint.

 

[HBarlow]

Some savvy RV dealers or trailer dealers sell a small electronic device a little longer than a seven pin trailer male end plug that is, in fact, a male end plug but is also an electronic tester that simulates plugging in your trailer. I bought one several years ago and carry it in my truck at all times.

Having a flatbed with a seven pin female receptacle on the driver's side forward of the fifth wheel hitch I sometimes plug in the tester then stand in the open driver's door of my truck and turn on headlights, turn signals, emergency flasher, press the brake pedal, and push the override manual trailer brake lever on my BrakeSmart controller. Each separate circuit that passes through the seven pin connector has a tiny red led light on the tester that lights to indicate power is reaching the tester. I can see it from just outside the driver's seat but still reach the light switch, etc.

You could use one to assist in troubleshooting your truck's integrated trailer brake controller and might also be able to use it to allow the dealer to test it without dragging your trailer to the dealer. Having the tester plugged in will not simulate the resistance load of trailer brakes though.

I can't remember the manfacturer's name on my tester but I think it was Reese or Draw-Tite, one of the big name trailer towing equipment makers. I paid less than $30 for the tester.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I would concentrate my troubleshooting to the trailer brakes, it's probably a wire either loose or shorting somewhere going to the brakes or one of the magnets. Here's a chart showing amps per magnet and resistance per magnet. If your trailer wireing has the scotchlock connectors, that would be a good place to start by replacing all of them with crimp type connectors or solder and tape. Good luck. bg Trouble Shooting Electric Brakes

 

[domehead]

I second Harvey's idea buy the test plug and it will point you which direction to go in.

 

[mpaulson]

I assume the brakes are working on the trailer, be sure to check the ground, it is the biggest culprit in most trailer wiring problems. Things will still work with a bad ground as it will ground through the ball/hitch, but a system like the one on the 2010's and brakesmart will pick up on the bad ground, intermitent ground and show a fault even though things are working. Raise the hitch off the ball and see if you still have lights etc. Wiggle the wiring while the hitch is separated.

 

[GCroyle]

Any chance to hook up to a different trailer for a test drive?

 

[KOwens]

Wow!



Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips. This gives me several avenues to pursue, and yes I can do all of these things including hooking up another trailer. I will do some testing on my own and jump back into the TDR with my results.



Again, thanks for the tips on getting started.



Kevin

 

[BurlesonR]

I would concentrate my troubleshooting to the trailer brakes, it's probably a wire either loose or shorting somewhere going to the brakes or one of the magnets. Here's a chart showing amps per magnet and resistance per magnet. If your trailer wireing has the scotchlock connectors, that would be a good place to start by replacing all of them with crimp type connectors or solder and tape. Good luck. bg Trouble Shooting Electric Brakes

I would also start with the brakes. I read on another Cummins related message board where someone else had a '10 with the same symptoms as you. He went to his Dodge dealer several times without results. Through the discussion in the post he was directed to and found the problem to be a bad connection on one of his trailer brakes. Seems our Ram integrated brake control is fairly sensitive to poor brake electrical connections.



As you might know, trailer wiring from most manufactures is marginal at best. A few years of wear and tear takes it's toll and most need a little attention at that point. Trying a different trailer may or may not give you reliable info. Maybe hooking to a new tailer would provide more accurate results. There is a tester (that RV and/or utility trailer dealers should have) that trouble shoots trailer wiring systems. If you can't find an obvious problem you could try that.



It could be a bad ground, but I'd start with the brakes. Good luck!

 

[KOwens]

Thanks again Guys for all the suggestions,



Magnet resistance measured at the trailer plug was 8. 4 ohms (out of spec). Should be about 0. 8 ohms for 4 each (3. 2 ohm) magnets wired in parallel. Next, I disassembled the brake wiring at each wheel and remeasured the resistance of each magnet individually. One was over 200 ohms, the next was about 80 ohms, the third around 50 ohms, and the last just over 10 ohms--thus the 8. 4 ohm overall reading for all of these in parallel. Looks like these brakes do have a problem after all, and my new Ram brake controller was trying to clue me in on the problem.



Also looks like the magnets are too pricey to buy when roughly the same amount of money can buy a complete backing plate with new linings, magnets, etc. I'll have to see about having the drums turned on two surfaces to accommodate the new linings and magnet faces.



At any rate, thanks again for the help in troubleshooting my brake problem. Hopefully the built-in brake controller on the truck is less grumpy when I get these trailer brakes repaired! =:~)

 

[BurlesonR]

Thanks for the update!

Glad you found your problem.

 

[D casten]

Same problem here.

There needs to be a way to shut that chime off.

In the middle of a 2000 mile trip . . chime gives my wife a headache promptly followed by her giving me a headache.

I kept pulling fuses at every stop, none worked.

 

[KOwens]

Hey D,



I can relate to the headacke, but in my case the brake controller was correct, my brake magnets were out of spec. I ended up replacing my backing plate assemblies, which come with new magnets, and had the drums turned on two faces so everything is like new. When my new Dexter backing plates arrived I measured each electromagnet individually, and each measured exactly 3. 2 ohms, which they should. Once wired in parallel (installed on the trailer axles), the four magnets measured 0. 8 ohms as they should (1/Req = 1/R1 + 1/R2 + 1/R3 + 1/R4). Now my controller is happy as a clam and does not complain when I plug in the trailer, and the controller works extremely well. I have put on roughly 20 miles while burnishing in the new brake linings and the controller hand-actuated control works flawlessly and the automatic control equally as well.



If you have access to an ohm meter, check your resistance at the trailer plug. If it is greater than about 1. 0 ohm, you may have a similar problem with your brake electromagnets. Mine measured about 8. 4 ohms, which is way out of tolerance. As an example, the maximum current into a good brake system (assuming a tandem axle with four wheels) is 12VDC/0. 8 ohms = 15 amps. When my controller was complaining it was 12VDC/8. 4 ohms = 1. 42 amps maximum (an order of magnitude difference), which was not enough to properly engage the trailer brakes. Thus the chime and the annoying "Check Trailer Brake Wiring" message.



I would advise checking your trailer wiring and magnet resistance before trying to silence your trucks brake controller. It may save you some trouble down the road, and hopefully the headaches for both of you go away for good! =:~)



Kevin

 

[seafish]

Some savvy RV dealers or trailer dealers sell a small electronic device a little longer than a seven pin trailer male end plug that is, in fact, a male end plug but is also an electronic tester that simulates plugging in your trailer. I bought one several years ago and carry it in my truck at all times.





You could use one to assist in troubleshooting your truck's integrated trailer brake controller and might also be able to use it to allow the dealer to test it without dragging your trailer to the dealer. Having the tester plugged in will not simulate the resistance load of trailer brakes though.



I can't remember the manfacturer's name on my tester but I think it was Reese or Draw-Tite, one of the big name trailer towing equipment makers. I paid less than $30 for the tester.

HB, that's a pretty cool little testing device... looks real handy, especially for on the road troubleshoting to see if the problem is in the truck or the trailer. Looks like it has come down in price too, though probably now made in China. Here is a link for those interested-- There is also a handy, quick how to video embedded--



Tow Ready 7 Way Trailer Connector Tester Review Video | etrailer.com

 

[seafish]

Wow... I also just found this 7 pin round tester, which I also use on some of my trailkers (and have a 7 round receptacle wired into my Reunel bumper), and it has tests BOTH the truck and trailer at the same time, AND allows you to bypass the circuit to achieve power in a wiring emergency. (though I'll bet it does NOT work to bypass and activate the trailer braking)



VERY cool... I's gonna get me one!! Oo.



Amazon.com: Innovative of America (INN7865) 7 Round Pin Tractor Trailer Circuit Tester: Home Improvement



Whaddya guys think??

 

[HBarlow]

Wow... I also just found this 7 pin round tester, which I also use on some of my trailkers (and have a 7 round receptacle wired into my Reunel bumper), and it has tests BOTH the truck and trailer at the same time, AND allows you to bypass the circuit to achieve power in a wiring emergency. (though I'll bet it does NOT work to bypass and activate the trailer braking)

VERY cool... I's gonna get me one!! Oo.

Amazon.com: Innovative of America (INN7865) 7 Round Pin Tractor Trailer Circuit Tester: Home Improvement

Whaddya guys think??

The one I have was manufactured by Tekonsha and purchased at a small shop that served the RV transporter crowd (diesel duallies). It is simpler than the one in your link and uses tiny red leds to indicate power available to the male plug

 

[seafish]

The one I have was manufactured by Tekonsha and purchased at a small shop that served the RV transporter crowd (diesel duallies). It is simpler than the one in your link and uses tiny red leds to indicate power available to the male plug

That would be this link--



Amazon.com: Curt Manufacturing I-27 12V 7-Way Rv Round Circuit Tester: Automotive

 

[D casten]

Hey D,



I would advise checking your trailer wiring and magnet resistance before trying to silence your trucks brake controller. It may save you some trouble down the road, and hopefully the headaches for both of you go away for good! =:~)



Kevin

I have no doubt that its the trailer. But if I'm in the middle of a trip and cant fix right away. I need to be able to shut the chime off, leave the warning light on if you must. But give me the ability to shut the chime off.