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Trailer disc brake conversion

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RV/5th Wheel Class III Hitch

Tow'g Empty Cargo Trlr WA to CA 2-25-07

Hi to everybody , in last Toyhauler magazine they do have article on conversion from electric to disc brake. They use this set up

HD 3000

Sound like a great product, but little bit expensive. Did anybody installed this product on trailer and if you did, how do you like it and is a delay very long or it is Ok ? It is worth of money ? I try to do search, but can't find anything on this system.

THX mevan
 
M Evan said:
Hi to everybody , in last Toyhauler magazine they do have article on conversion from electric to disc brake. They use this set up

HD 3000

Sound like a great product, but little bit expensive. Did anybody installed this product on trailer and if you did, how do you like it and is a delay very long or it is Ok ? It is worth of money ? I try to do search, but can't find anything on this system.

THX mevan



Whatever disc system you go with, it will beat the electric drums hands down. We had the Moryde system along with the neverRlube bearings installed. The brakes will stop you quick. And it eliminates the need for an engine brake. Mine never get hot. Have really pushed them but they never get hot to the touch; like the drums did!
 
My truck and 18' foot flatbed with Jeep on it (just under 8500lbs Jeep and trailer) stops better with the trailer then just the truck alone. That's with drum brakes.
 
We tow 20 ft trailers with 2 12K axles... . we've changed 2 of them from electric brakes and ordered one set of axles with disc... . We use the BFG electric over Hyd. pump to power them... .



We agree this is the best set up we've ever used..... . in fact the trailer will stop the truck is the hand lever on the brake controler is applied... we've got controllers in the cab that allow is to add more pressure the harder you step on the brakes... . I can't say enough about them except for the cost of the pads and overhaul kits for the calipers.....



Hope this helps...
 
jelag said:
We tow 20 ft trailers with 2 12K axles... . we've changed 2 of them from electric brakes and ordered one set of axles with disc... . We use the BFG electric over Hyd. pump to power them... .



We agree this is the best set up we've ever used..... . in fact the trailer will stop the truck is the hand lever on the brake controler is applied... we've got controllers in the cab that allow is to add more pressure the harder you step on the brakes... . I can't say enough about them except for the cost of the pads and overhaul kits for the calipers.....



Hope this helps...



I'm not sure what you ment about the "cost of pads and overhaul kits for the calipers" That is one of the reason we went with the MOR/ryde system; because it has a GM part number for the pads, which would mean that they would be available in most NAPA or truck parts stores.
 
I also have looked at the HD 3000 & talked to a person who installs them. He gave me a name & address . Greg Bess, Tow Brake International LTD, 800-927-6778, www.towbrake.com. Tow Brake International LTD makes the HD 3000. It has a 5 yr warranty. They say that their system has little if no delay. Hope this helps
 
I had them installed on my tri axle trailer. Its the best investment I have made. The improved braking performance was phenomenal. The company name is Tow Brake International of Hardy ,Arkansas.
 
BLevy said:
I had them installed on my tri axle trailer. Its the best investment I have made. The improved braking performance was phenomenal. The company name is Tow Brake International of Hardy ,Arkansas.



Just a little up-date on mine. The unit worked fine until the "HD3000" burned up and locked all four brakes!! :eek: So I cut the wires and drove the 300 miles home without brakes on the trailer. Mor/Ryde more or less told me TS. We don't make or warrant the brakes or controler. Well TOWBRAKE went bankrupt; and after looking into the situation, Mor/Ryde does not make anything, they just install other cos stuff, and they do not warrant anything. Mor/Ryde has a good name and that is the reason we went with them.



If we had to do it over, we would still do the same thing, but Mor/Ryde would not touch my truck or trailer. So we went to Carslie and have a new controller ($650. 00). I don't think the present wiring can be used. Am tlking to Carslie about that. Mor/Ryde installed "Kodiac" brakes and Dexter Never-R-Lube bearing. No one ever mentioned this; but they did make much of the long warranties (but didn't say they didn't do it). Learn every day. Sometimes it can be expensive. :{
 
My axles are Dexters and use the Dexter Hyd disc brake... . the pads and calipers are only available from Dexter... at least I can't find them anywhere else... . Yes a set of GM pads are 15 bucks... . but not these... most of our trailers see 100K miles a year... which means an overhaul a year..... I'm now upgrading to larger trucks... and hopefully the trailers will sit idle longer.....



Hope this helps fill the gaps I left out above...



Jim
 
Update from Our Experiences....

Two years ago I vistied with several here including Jelag (Jim) about converting a couple trailers. We did not need new comnplete axles, just he hub conversion. Kodiak and Dexter both make good products. Kodiak is much cheaper and DOES use standard GM replacement brake pads. We conveted two trailers and tested one season.



After that first season we changed another 4 trailers. All have 8K axles. We have over 100K combined miles testing this setup and it is without a doubt the way to go. I have over 50K on the disk conversion with the trailer I run. The brake pads still had 1/3 left this fall and will be run another. We run hard and run alot of gravel. We found the need to change the bottom caliper bolt annually as the gravel was hammering the exposed bolt to the point we lost on lower bolt. The braking ability is so good that we have found the trailer brakes are more then adequate when decending the big hills of WY and MT when loaded to 20K combined... . without a engine brake. The fact Disks brake much cooler then a electric drum setup helps and it alos is much easier on the axle grease/oil. We used to require a service every 12K ( one in the summer and once in the winter). We find the grease to be like new after 12K and have gone to once annual services (20 - 25K miles for some trailers).



The only hardware we changed from the orginal testing of two trailers conversions was from Carlisle Hydrastar hydraulic actuator to the newer Dexter model. We found the Carlisle units had problems with developing air in the lines requiring repeated brake line bleads. If negleted the time to get brake action increased. Upon bleading... the quick brake action returned. Also, the Carlisle unit is sensative to the in truck brake controller. They do have an additional electric component to alow its use with almost any brake control (Inlcuding the Factory Ford). The Dexter is good to go with any controller including factory ford.



The new Dexter model (old Dexter model was just a rebadged Carlisle) has a larger fluid volume. We run all Dexter actuators now. When combined with Brakesmart brake controllers, they have almost instant response and the trailer braking action is undetectable from your tow vehicle brakes. Read... . race car brakes even at 20K.



If buying complete axles the Dexter setup might be the best. When converting... . check into Kodiak. http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/



We average $2300 - 2500 per conversion. That does not include any trade in of old parts. This includes four 8K Kodiak disk kits, brake line kit, Dexter Actuator and labor to install.



For those of you that tow alot (Like Jelag) or just want dependable, brakes... Hydraulic Disk is the way to go.



Also, any trailer we buy that requires trailer brakes... . it will only be hydraulic disk from now on.



jjw

ND
 
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