Trailer height

[Mak]

First off, I got a new truck... . yea!!



:{ Now the problem... . I had a two wheel drive and have gone to a four wheel drive, 2500 that is 4-5" taller than my two wheel. My 5er is a 29 Alpenlite. The springs are already located on top of the axles. How do I get a 5" lift



I just tried the Alpenlite web site but it seems to be defunct. I was hopeing there might be some kind of factory kit... . Any ideas???

 

[RustyJC]

If your axles are already "flipped", and if you don't have Jake plates (or if you do, they're adjusted as high as you can go), you're pretty much down to the following:



1. "Raising" blocks between axles and springs - not recommended because they can cause axle wrap when braking.



2. Go to a good trailer fabrication shop and have them remove the spring hangers, drop the springs and axles, weld in a section of 6"x2" channel on both sides of the frame at the bottom of the existing frame sections, and rehang the suspension on these new channels. Obviously, getting the alignment right when they rehang the suspension is critical.



Rusty

 

[ggorremans]

If your Alpenlite has Dexter axles (and I think they do) you can purchased a kit from Dexter that will raise the coach... . don't know how much, tho.

Look at the Dexter website.

www.dexteraxle.com

Gary

 

[RustyJC]

Here's the Dexter Axle lift kit info: http://www.dexteraxle.com/general_information/news.php?wn_id=10#top



From what you're saying, though, your axles are already "flipped" (i. e. , the axles are below the springs), so I doubt this will help.



Rusty

 

[Fuzz]

Mopar Kit

Didn't I read on here that Dodge has a lowering kit for the 4x4's.

As I recall it was expensive. . but...

Tried to find the thread and I couldn't . . but that don't mean much

I have a little trouble with the search feature

 

[JSoloman]

NO, NO, NO!!! You don't buy a 4x4 to start lowering the d%$M thing. I'm with RustyJC. I went through the very same problem. Talk about a pain trying to go over RR tracks, small ditches, etc. I was having someone spot for me every time I got it in a tight spot. The suspension shop where I had my front end leveler put on did the lifting of my 5th wheeler. They put 4" box steel under the frame. It extends from about 6" in front of my front springs to 6" behind the back springs. All welded down solid. The spring brackets welded onto the new steel. Then a 2" piece was welded across from frame to frame, for strength when turning. Got the wheels aligned back and I was ready to go.



There is still a little bit of a pitch. 6" may be the way to go, esp if you have tires taller than stock. I run 285's and plan to change the trailer tires this spring from the 205's that's on it, to 225's, in hopes of gaining a little more.



Hope this helps. I love the height of the trailer. I do alot of back road camping in the mountains and this works great.



Someday RV's will be manufactured to work on our trucks!!



Jen

 

[Mak]

Thanks for the help. I was hopeing I would hear someone say they welded a spacer on the frame to compensate for the difference. I will look into that and try to find a competent shop to do such a mod. Jen, did you find that your 5er handled as well after the mod. Assuming everything was done right... . alignment etc... ... Mak

 

[JSoloman]

Mak,



Yep, the trailer handles great. The shop I took it to does suspensions, brakes, stuff like that on big trucks, motorhomes, etc. I had a Superlift 4" suspension lift installed on my Chev at this shop a few years back and was really happy with the service.



I never liked the trailer not being level with the truck, but what got me in there in the first place was the big recall on the Montana 5th wheels' suspension. The guy that did the work for me had been fixing the Montana's for the factory and while talking with him about my trailer height, he said it was an easy fix and much stronger than factory. Cost me just at $450. Took about 6 hrs. Worth every penny and it looks good on the truck now.



Over time, leaving the trailer angled can weaken the rear axle and spring assembly to the point in a turn, esp trying to park it in a tight place, can snap the welds loose. Then your stuck.



So, go for it. Let me know what how it goes.



Jen

 

[Rockcrawler]

Frame rail x-bracing?

I do a lot of fab work and I'm an engineer too. I know Alpenlite is a good name, even so, a lot of 5ers have light frames and little cross bracing or "rungs" in the ladder. You should pay attention to this in the spring mt area. If you will be adding between the frame and spring hangers you are increasing leverage and may further rack and fatigue the frame in this area leading to cracking. Just make sure there is adequate support here- x-bracing would be best (Like a floor joist would have). There are professional fab shops that can lay beautiful welds but are lacking from the design side of things.



You could go with the lift block as your spring wrap would be minimal and could easily be countered (if you really need it) with some type of single control arm per axle. You would get the same leverage issues on the frame though. This could be countered with a Panhard bar or lateral control arm. Good luck!

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

I talked to dodge about the TSB that lowers the truck 1. 5-2" in the rear and. . :--) it costs $1200 :--) to have it done by the dealer. . I gave them an earfull about selling a 3500 truck that can't hook up to a majority idf 5th whl trailers w/o mods and explained that that was bad business on DCs part while they ingnored me

 

[Mak]

Thanks for all the info. "Mark", I was looking at the blocks in the rear, and the height difference between front and rear, thinking how hard would it be to change that lift for one an inch or two shorter just to level the truck. $1200 at Dodge huh, let me see... . $600 an inch. Not bad.



"Rockcrawler"..... I'm afraid you snowed me with some of your terminology, but will show your post to prospective shop people. I haven't talked to Alpenlite yet but did talk to someone at camper world. He was quite upset that I would even think of doing such a thing due to stabiliy concerns.



"Jen"..... Would it be possible to give me the name or number of the shop (and person) that did your work? I would like to get his feeling on my particular trailer as it may have a more fragile under carraige as Rockcrawler suggested. Thanks again.

 

[Mark_Kendrick]

$600 an inch can be a good deal. . to the right person for the right item :-laf:-laf



... okay. . I climbed back out of the gutter.

 

[JSoloman]

Here ya go Mak...



You want to talk with Bill May at Kaiser Brake & Alignment. Its in Eugene, Oregon. 1-800-877-5890. Tell him you talked with Jenny Solomon. He'll be great help for ya.



I wish ya the best.



Jen

 

[Fireman]

Mak



Have you tried retracting your pin box. Just make sure that you have about 6" or more of space between the trailer and bed rails. Also, besure that the bolts are properly tightened.



Fireman

 

[Mak]

Pin box

Fireman... . The pinbox is retracted. As it sits, the trailer is parallel to the bed rails on my 2x4. The only difference between the two trucks is the overall height of the 4x4. Mak

 

[LRamey]

A friend of mine had the same problem with his super duty ford. He added a firestone air bag system to his 5th wheel and he can lift it 2-3". The nice thing about it is when he sets up camp he can then lower it so it's easier to get into.

 

[Mak]

Triler Height

LRamey..... Thanks for the input, but I need at least twice the height the air would give me. I have decided to modify the trailer frame after talking to a number of people on the matter. It seems like a pretty easy fix, just have to be real careful with alignment of parts. I will post the sucess or failure of this new adventure..... I love my new truck no matter what happens.....

Thanks to you all... . Mak