Trailer Hitch Tongue Weights

[GFreshour]

I have a 2003 Prowler (tow behind) that has an unloaded weigth of 5591# and a loaded weight of 7400#. The CL IV hitch on my 2001. 5 HO says max weight 5000# and 500 tongue weight or 10,000# and 1,000# tongue weight with load distributing hitch. When I hook the trailer up, the truck sinks less than 2" and this is without the load distributing bars. I would like to leave the load distributing bars at home, but am concerned that I might tear the hitch off the truck. any suggestions most appreciated

 

[RCook]

I tow a 12,000 lb boat (900 lb or more tongue weight) with the factory hitch with no trouble. I've towed the boat close to 30,000 miles, and my 19 foot Prowler TT maybe 20,000 miles.



My truck has the "camper group" heavier rear springs, and Rancho adjustable shocks, so it's pretty stable. Even with the boat trailer it squats only about 2". I pump my rear tires to 80lb when towing the boat, and 75lb when towing the TT. I make sure the trailer tires are pumped to their max.



I don't carry the load distributing bars that came with my TT - can't tell any difference when they're there or not there (but my TT is smaller than yours).



I have considered adding a load distributing hitch to the boat trailer rig, but it's not so easy to do with a salt water setup (I figured I'd have lots of rust).



My factory hitch was replaced/upgraded in the hitch recall a few years back - the 1998 original had developed a crack. I check the replacement hitch thoroughly before every towing trip, but it seems to be no problem. From reading TDR posts I thought I might need to replace the factory hitch with a Reese or Titan or some other heavier setup, but so far no apparent need to do so.

 

[klenger]

Weigh the truck with and w/o the trailer attached to calculate the hitch weight. If it's less than 500 lbs, the leave the bars off.

 

[bulabula]

I'm running about 600 tongue weight with my boat trailer. No problems and it pulls great.

 

[Loren]

All of this proves that you can overload our trucks and their hitches without having a catastrophic failure.



Your hitch manufacturer has done the engineering for you. He says your hitch is good for a trailer weight of 5000 pounds and a tongue weight of 500 pound without the weight distributing bars, or 10,000 pounds and 1000 pound tongue weight with the bars.



There are reasons for these limits. For example, with the load distribution bars installed you transfer some of the load to different parts of the hitch and its mounts. This is why they are called "load distribution" bars. Without these bars, some of the hitch components can be overloaded.



If you exceed the manufacturer's figures, you are now the "test pilot. " If you are comfortable with that, go ahead. I have no doubt that the safety factor for critical parts, like trailer hitches, is probably 2 or 3. Does this mean you can exceed the manufacturer's limits? That's up to you.



I wouldn't.



Loren

 

[Eric_77]

You sure on those weight limits W/O dist. hitch? It sounds like bumper hitch limits. The Class IV is normally 7500 and 750 hitch weight.

 

[RustyJC]

The decal on the receiver of both my 1996 and my 2002 says 500/5000 without bars, 1000/10000 with bars. I would go with the engineers' recommendations if it were me.



Rusty

 

[Eric_77]

I agree wholeheartedly with going with what the manf specs. That is what made me wonder as the 96 and 03 bumper(the 92 has an aftermarket bumper) has stamped 5000/500 as limits, why bother with reciever if it is no better than the bumper?

I have an aftermarket hitch on my 96 and all the literature I have seen shows Class IV at 750/7500. I wonder why Dodge's is underrated. Sounds strange W/O dist hitch it rated like class III but with it has Class IV ratings sounds like some sort of hy-brid.

 

[BV]

My 99 had a class 4 which should have been rated as a class 3. It was scary to see the cracks in the webs where it bolted to the frame and it only towed a 2500# utility trailer with 300# on the tongue.



I see many of you guys maxed out with equipment on the highway and if you could see your hitch flex you might think differently.



Do whatever your comfortable with and remember that other life's are at stack decides your own when the hitch or towing equipment fails.



I honestly believe that the OEM hitch was build by the lowest bidder and that regular hitch MFG's (Draw-Tite, Hidden, Reese, ect) have a much better product.

 

[rfcom]

Stay within rated limits.

I agree with the others above in staying within the manufacturers ratings, whether it's OEM or aftermarket. If you were ever to be involved in an incident, your fault or not, you may have some liability imposed on you. Besides, WD bars just don't cost that much compared to a wrecked trailer due to a failed hitch.



Jim

 

[Duluth Diesel]

Reading my new Motor Trend last night. Seems the VW Toureg SUV has a higher factory rated tongue weight that my 2500HD!!! WTF? VW says the Toureg can have a trailer with almost 700 pounds on the tongue. How can a unibody SUV take more than our trucks? Yes, the weight it can tow is less, but doesn't it seem like our trucks should be able to handle 1000 pounds normal and 1750 pounds weight-distributing?

 

[PaulG]

Originally posted by Duluth Diesel

Reading my new Motor Trend last night. Seems the VW Toureg SUV has a higher factory rated tongue weight that my 2500HD!!! WTF? VW says the Toureg can have a trailer with almost 700 pounds on the tongue. How can a unibody SUV take more than our trucks? Yes, the weight it can tow is less, but doesn't it seem like our trucks should be able to handle 1000 pounds normal and 1750 pounds weight-distributing?

it's all how cheap dodge was when they put the hitch from the factory. they used 1 standard hitch for eveyone figuring it's cheapier for them. if you want a more heavier duty hitch just go buy one they are cheap enough. you can buy a titian for like $275 and the next step down for like $200 thats not alot of money for security

 

[KBrindel]

tongue weight

Freshour:



Somewhere on the rear bumper is stamped max wt. 500 lbs tongue. mine is covered with ice right now so cant spot it. I cut the head off a 3/4 " bolt and welded it to the 1" band that encircles the receiver hitch which is just under a hole in the bumper for a ball attachment. I figure with the receiver plus the added strength of the bumper I am good. I pull 10000 with 10% tongue wt. no bars. I'm sure hitch people would say, oh no don't heat my hitch you'll make it weak. . anyway it works for me.

 

[OTRPU]

Just curious as to why you don't want to install the trunion bars. I haul daily, lots of different types of trailers. When I hook a tag I rig the trunion bars. Seems it keeps the steering proper. Many I run with and see on the road rarely rig the bars, so maybe I'm unique in this. Course just as many I see on the road don't install a battery so they really have an active breakaway protection. Never have understood just why they don't, but see more that don't than do. DOT catches um and it's a fine and OOS until they get it operational. I suggest personal responsibility seems to be lacking more frequently these days. Maybe I'm just getting too old and don't know mine from a hole in the ground anymore. Just seems rigging this stuff is JUST THE RIGHT THING TO DO to me. But then, I've had a trailer jump off a ball in my life.



Cheers,

Steve J.

 

[Mingoglia]

I just ordered the Titan hitch... I've been pulling my trailer for 2 years on the factory hitch. The dry weight of the trailer is supposed to be 840lbs so I've been using 1000lb weight distribution bars. I just purchased a tongue weight scale and fully loaded going down the road I have 1800lbs of tongue weight! This will lighten up a little when I have the rear loaded with "toys"... a friend weighed his and it lighted up by about 150 lbs... but still!! To think, I towed this trailer a half dozen times with my Ford Expedition and class 3 hitch (rated at 700lbs of tongue weight with weight distribution) .

 

[BV]

Originally posted by OTRPU

Course just as many I see on the road don't install a battery so they really have an active breakaway protection.

Cheers,

Steve J.

Maybe it's because it's not required according to this towing law link