Trailer sway control

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I recently traded my HEAVY 22' travel trailer for a new 23. 5' lightweight travel trailer. With the old trailer I used a Reese weight distributing hitch with no sway control. The trailer seemed to pull fine (no sway). With the new lightweight trailer, I noticed the rear of the trailer swaying around when I brought it home. The new trailer seems pretty light on the tongue, so I haven't used the spring bars on the hitch. I see that there are two different types of sway controls available from Reese. One mounts on the side of the trailer frame to the hitch and is a friction control, the other (more expensive)mounts to the spring bars of the weight-distributing hitch. I don't know if I need the spring bars with this trailer, however if the dual cam sway control is superior to the friction control, I would still use them. Does anyone have experience with both? What do you recommend? Thanks in advance.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

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I only have ever used the Reese Friction type. I was told the Dual Cam ones were made for shorter wheel base tow vehicials.

The only problem I ever had with the Friction one was with a 3000 popup and a Furd ranger. On wet roads, the camper could push the front tires if the sway control was to tight.

If it were me, I would go with the friction one because there cheeper (and I already have one. )

 

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Probably the best thing to do would be to have the balance of the trailer changed to give you more tongue weight. If you don't have enough tongue weight the tail will wag even with sway controls. If your water tank is in the front of the axles it might get better with them full, but you should try for 10-15% tongue weight. Just my opinion.

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1998. 5 QC 2500 4X4 24 VALVE, INTENSE BLUE, 235-85 MICHELIN, BANKS STINGER,DD Stage1 injectors

 

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Get the tounge weight right first. One more thing to check is the trailer axle alignment. If one axle is in a little off it can make it a handfull. I have never felt the need for sway control in the 8 to 10 k range.

 

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I had experience with the dual type, attached to the bars. They worked great. #ad
I actually made my own from pieces. One of the local shops had the 2 'sway control' bars that attach to the tongue of the trailer & the 2 'cams' that bolt to the bottom of the equalizing bars. I welded the cams on & bolted up the rest for cheap. All the shops have that kind of used stuff laying around. Go to the svc guy & ask. You'd be surprised what's under the workbenches, cheap.

Even though you're lighter than before, I'd guess that you could still stand to equalize the load some. The equalizers helped keep the 'bounce' down to a minimum. Try it out without the load equalizers & if you're happy with the handling/steering feel, then the single sway control is probably ok.

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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, SLT, 4X4, LWB, Ext Cab, ISSPRO pillar, TST 280/685 & AFC housing against the stops, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, Injectors, K&N, Monicas silencer ring removed, Exhaust brake, 4" CAT back & CATless, 4" chrome turn down straight out back, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, 235s, HX35s days are numbered, HX40 here.

 

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In my opinion sway control units should not normally be required. If the trailer has proper alignment, is level, and is set-up with sufficient tongue weight (as 6bbl points out) the trailer should track straight. Best to fix problem. If problem is there and not fixed, a sway control unit can force your truck out of control (in extreme case). Sway controllers should be solution of last resort. I would try equilizers before the anti-sway units.

A friend had trouble with sway on his 20' flatbed tandem trailer. We moved the axles back about 4" (to increase load to tongue) and it rides straight as an arrow now.

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Wait'n for my 2001 2500 QC, SB, 4x4, ETH 6-sp, 3. 54 LSD, SLT++ (everything but those silly looking lights on top of the roof), White over Silver, Tan leather.

 

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Thanks for all the information. I'm going to load up the trailer this weekend and see how it pulls. I think I'll also go to the local scale and see what I have for weights. Thanks again for the advice.

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'98 4x4 12V QCab Auto (ready to BOMB)

 

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Like the others have said "Get the tongue weight right then worry about sway". I had a 1700# boat that swayed real bad and figured the tongue weight was 2 light so I moved the axle back until I had about 160# (so the wife could still hook it up) and the sway went away.

Just last weekend I took our travel trailer ( 23' layton) down to the state scales that are closed and our 4500# trailer has 700# tongue weight (15-16%) and there is no more sway like it had before when the fresh water tank was empty. The trailer was weighed with a full fresh water tank that is located infront on the axles.

[This message has been edited by BV (edited 07-13-2000). ]

 

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These guys got you covered. Reese has some great instructions that will get you tweaked perfectly. IMHO - add on sway control is a coverup of improper hitch adjustment. HAPPY CAMPING