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trailer wheel bearings

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Farting Preacher

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I have used one of those things and got just as dirty as doing it by hand so I just wear latex gloves and do it the old fashioned way.



This site offers good directions:

http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/bearing1.html#seal



I use regular wheel bearing grease available at the auto parts store.

When you pack them check for any pits or grooves in the races or rollers. Cleanliness is the key. Don't get dirt or debris in the bearing grease.
 
I take the bearings out and clean the inside of the hubs out. (I use paper towels, no solvent. )



Now the bearing packer. If you turn the top cone looking thing CW there is a couple threads that will lock it onto the inside piece of the bearing packer, then pull it up and out of the clear tube.

Fill the clear tube with grease (about 1/2 way). Slide the top section back into the clear container over the grease.

Now unscrew the top cone thing. Put the bearing into the top section then slide the cone thing back onto it. Press some weight onto the cone thing and grease will be forced out of the bottom section through the bearing.



I don't wash the bearings out with solvent, I just force some grease through them, then remove the dirty grease that come out when the new grease goes into them.



I use Amsoil synthetic wheel bearing grease, but any good waterproof bearing grease will work well.



Also when I sit the bearing back into the hub, I will use my finger and apply a gusset of grease to the backside of the bearing. Then I put some between the bearing and seal area. Use a new seal, if its the type with a spring on it, pack the spring area with grease (keeps spring from jumping out when you drive seal in)



Do the same for the outer bearing, and don't forget to use a new cotter pin.



when I am adjusting them, I use a set of channel lock pliers, tighten the nut until it starts to get snug, then back it off so the cotter pin will go through the hole.



Sure your going to get dirty, and I agree with the rubber gloves, but there is no way you can pack a bearing by hand and flush the old grease out like a bearing packer does :)
 
There is more than one type of grease--one is lithium based and I can not recall the other type. They do not mix well; when I do not know what grease is allready there I clean the bearing very well with solvent to be sure there is none of the old grease remaining. When they are mixed, they tend to seperate and leave some pooly lubed spots.



If you find the dexter or one of the other axel manufacturers web page, they have excellent directions for repacking.

I believe the most common errors in repacking are;

1. putting too much grease in the hub-just smear the races good with grease and liberally grease the bearing. Don't put much in the hub itself.

2. getting the axel nut too tight; when reinstalling, tighten the axel nut to about 50 pounds torque--just good and tight with about an 8 inch wrench, while turning the wheel. Then without turning the wheel, back it off. Retighten finger tight, then back off to the next opportunity to insert the cotter pin.



Vaughn
 
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