Trailer Window Sealing?

[Buffalo]

Do any of you guys have any experience with the proper, most correct, way to reseal windows on an aluminum-sided travel trailer. I have a '98 trailer and the caulking between the window frames and the trailer body is starting to crack and shrink. I've heard two schools of thought. Scoop out some of the caulk and replace it with a bead of G. E. Silicone ll. The other is to remove the windows, scrape off the old caulk and replace with butyl putty tape and re-install windows. Then apply a small bead of the silicone to the top part of the window frame and body of the trailer. The second method will be a lot more work, but sounds like it might be a better, more long-lasting solution to the problem. I live in the desert, in Phoenix, Az. , and I think the extreme summer temperatures are hard on window caulking. Anyone with experience in this area, I would appreciate Your opinions. Thank You, very much. Joe.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I would definitely not pull and re-do the windows, the tape caulking is medieval at best. Some silicone is tougher than Japanese arithmatic, I can't tell you which because I don't know but I have used some over the years that was almost indestructible. Some of the new stuff is very good (Dicor) but still will shrink and needs attention annually. I would scrape out what you can easily get out and re-seal with a good brand of silicone or one of the newer sealers. Good luck. bg

 

[HBarlow]

Buffalo:



I agree with B. G. Smith. I would avoid removing all the windows unless caulking the seams doesn't produce a cure. I've successfully caulked the seams of Airstream and Avion travel trailers without removing the windows.



Some RV makers use rubber tape between window and trailer skin. Other manufacturers use RV caulk, the kind that comes on a roll with wrinkled paper separating the layers. Rubber tape doesn't deteriorate much over time and would probably not require replacement. If your trailer uses caulk it might shrink and crack in the AZ heat and could require eventual window removal.



I'd try using a sharp pick to remove as much dried, cracked caulking from the seams between window and trailer skin as possible. I would pick away the dried and cracked caulk from the sides and bottom also because water will find its way into the cracks around the bottom edge as well. When all the loose caulk has been removed, apply a thin bead of fresh, high quality caulk around the perimeter of each window.



If you are trying to cure or avoid water entry, caulk every opening in the trailer skin including awning brackets, antenna(s), roof vents, clearance and tail lights, etc.



Harvey

 

[QRTRHRS]

I removed windows and resealed them with the butyl caulk maybe ten years ago. The windows were originally installed with the "wrinkled paper RV caulk" which had dried out and was leaking. I used putty knives to seperate the window from the body. This was on an old Class C. My only problem was the large rectangular front bunk window. I stressed it and it shattered into many small pieces. Yeh well.

 

[PaulCreamer]

I was an RV tech at a dealership a few years ago and we never would put a band aid over a fracture. That is to say that we would remove and replace the butyl instead of screwing with a patch.

The windows come out easy enough and the old butyl will come off with a little help from some WD-40 and a plastic scraper.

One thing that I would suggest (if you decide to go this route) is to tear off small sections of butyl and fill in the valleys on your aluminum trailer. Should take 1 1/2 to 2 Hrs per window with a power driver.



Best of Luck

P. S. be carefull to tighten the window screws in a diagonal pattern when re-installing.

 

[DHoleman]

Buffalo, I just seen about a week ago on "RVTV" or something like that that comes on The OLN chnl on Dish Network about the right way to seal or reseal the windows

DH

 

[msimmons]

I agree with Paul... even though it is time consuming, the very best way is to pull the windows and reseal with butyl tape, then caulk the upper edge with silicone. The hardest part is getting the old stuff off. It has been my experience though that the butyl tape "usually" lasts baout 10 years before replacement is necessary.



Hope this helps!!



Mike

 

[TowPro]

I just spent a whole role of putty tape on my slide-in and still need more. Its the only way to go.

Its a PITA, but its the only things that lasts.



Will

 

[BCook1]

Removal tool.

As you know, half the battle is getting the old stuff off. I found a very neat tool at a wood working shop. It is a small hand knife with a 90* flat end that is used for wood carving. It is sharp and about perfect in size to remove caulking. Don't slip. It is sharp and can scratch the siding or you.

 

[CClayton]

proper sealant

My local R. V. tech with over 20 years of experience has instructed me to remove putty to a less than flush level

(slightly recessed) around windows, doors etc.

Then swipe with lacquer thinner to clean and remove contamiants.

Apply "paralastic" elastomeric sealant around perimeter of window/doors. .

I wouldn't be pulling windows out unless

damage is suspected.

My tech doesn't believe in silicones to seal trim ,windows etc. has a tendency to magnet dirt and has adhesion issues.

"Dicor" sealant is used on e. p. d. m rubber

roof seals and protrusions, it will apply heavier and is a form of like rubber.

Good luck!