Trans Cooler Lines Chafing (Please read)

[mwilson]

I want to bring this issue up again as I just got bit by it. Leak started last week on the '06, running in the dark morning and night I didn't realize I had a problem until I walked by the rear of the truck and caught spots on the tailgate by the glow of a street light.



If you haven't done so yet, CHECK the transmission cooler line at the cooler for chafing. I have checked mine several times in the past, nothing was touching it so I let it be.



What I discovered is the water line to the block MOVES of it's own free will, so if you don't catch it at the right time you do not realize that water line has been slowly wearing a hole into the cooler line.



I attempted to change it last night but there is a clip that I can not get released so I am going to order a new clip today for two reasons, one to see how it works and also will have it on hand if I have to break the old one to get it out.



When I go back at it next weekend I will photo and document this for you so that you know what to look for.



There have been several threads warning of this in the past but no really good photos of what to look for.



See this thread ...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ns-2003-2007/226207-cooler-line-problems.html



I will have $200. 00 bucks minimum into this plus a days time into this before I am done, and it was completely preventable.



GRRRRRRRR!!!#@$%!



Mike.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yep, just got done replacing the expensive line with the drain back valve in it. The JB Quick path didn't hold as well as I would have liked. :-laf



Worst part was getting the flare fittings loose, FYI the ball joint is in optimal position to catch elbow when it comes loose. :{



The new line looks to move it farther away from the coolant hose so a small adjustment was evidently made in the line design. The old line showed 3 wear marks, the worst one other than at the heat exchanger was just upstream from clip on the block. Fun to see let alone get to and work on but a split piece of 1/2 rubber line and a zip tie should help the issue.

 

[mwilson]

I think the easiest way for someone to do the preventitive required is to pull the LH fender liner.

Then you will have a fair amount of room to reach in there with a split junk of 1/2" push-loc and get it zip tied on there.



If I would have had any idea that the coolant line could float back and forth I would have done so long before now... ... .....



Last night I had the liner out and the tire off, just could not get the clip behind the battery cable on the motor mount to give up. Didn't want to damage the line underneath and tie up the bay with a dead non-customer vehicle so backed off, licked my wounds and put it back together.



I will return and do battle with it another day... . :-laf



Edit. . I am glad to hear that you think it might be bent a little better, I looked at my new line but really couldn't tell if they had made any changes or not.



Of course if I had actually got it installed last night I would probably have noticed... ... :-laf

It's a good thing I make a living selling parts, not by installing them.....



Mike.

 

[cerberusiam]

Yeah, tire off and fender liner out is the only way to work on it and it is still tight.



Didn't have a problem with the clips, they popped right out with a screw driver and clipoped right back again without issue. Must have held my mouth right.





I was changing the steering box at the same time so I had a lot of pieces apart.

 

[CTRice]

Hey Mike,



I just found a coolant puddle under my truck. It looks like it is coming from the area that you described. Could you provide me with the part numbers you replaced and any tips you might have in repairing this problem? Thanks, Chuck

 

[mwilson]

transmission fluid was what was leaking from mine.



I would read the thread below when looking for a coolant leak..... this will drip from the bell housing as well.



A lot of us with '06 trucks have had this little hose leak when the motor is cold.



Read this thread...

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...hose-behind-turbo.html?highlight=coolant+hose



Mike.

 

[RBellah]

Has anybody figured out if there is a new hose or line to correct the issue at hand? I am looking at mine and the rubber hose is up against the metal line. While my truck only has 38k on it I am still interested in making it right. I am posting pictures for others to see and hopefully this will help to rectify.

 

[RBellah]

I am going to take another look tomorrow and see if maybe the rubber hose could be shorten by maybe a 1/4 -3/8 inch and see if it would pull it away from the steel line.

 

[mwilson]

R Bellah,



See this post.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ission-cooler-lines-act-now-regret-later.html



Also, if you would please provide your Engine Serial Number I would look up your water hose up as it is different than my '06.



See how mine has a rubber elbow and then the line turns to steel?? I would like the part number for your version that is all rubber.

It looks like 4931709 but would like to make sure.



Mike.

 

[RBellah]

Thanks again Mike for the thread link. My setup is a little different as I noticed one of my lines is a curved rubber hose where yours is rubber and metal. I am going to check it out some more though and will use your idea of a small piece of hose to keep them apart.

 

[RBellah]

The curved hose without the metal tubing in the picture shows part number 4931709

 

[mwilson]

Ok, that explains the part number supercession for my steel tube set-up.

That all rubber hose is the newest part being used and they have stopped using the steel line like I have.



That 4931709 hose also sells for $307. 00 so protect it at all cost. #@$%!



Thanks,

Mike.

 

[TGVET]

Ok, that explains the part number supercession for my steel tube set-up.

That all rubber hose is the newest part being used and they have stopped using the steel line like I have.



That 4931709 hose also sells for $307. 00 so protect it at all cost. #@$%!



Thanks,

Mike.

Mike and RBellah,

Are you talking about the short 3/4" dia. hose coming off the lower side of the exchanger ? If so, mine failed back in Aug. 2011 while on the way home from work. If that is the part (hose) it was a real ***** to take off and replace. But I managed and found the hose at a local NAPA store for around $10. 00.



Also, while looking at the photos, it appears there is a part # on the exchanger which I believe is what I need to replace.

 

[mwilson]

No, the rubber elbows are still available and are low cost. It's the steel tube itself like you and I have that costs a small fortune to replace as it is no longer available. You have to buy the one like RBellah has and that bad boy is the expensive one.



Mike.