Trans Issue(s)

[cowboysgottacummins]

My first post here, i am fairly new member. Thanks in advance for your insights.



Bought a new to me 06 3500 Quad Cab Auto trans with 105,000 miles in Mid July. This is also my first diesel. I have read half a dozen issues of TDR mag, the buyers guide and have tried to educate myself the best I can before posting.



Here is the issue. I noticed the trans seemed to be hanging in first and second gear on occasion. Would hang in first to redline(3250-3600), again to redline in second (all under moderate acceleration). Researched the issue and sourced it to the Governor Pressure Solenoid. Ordered the PATC Gov. Solenoid Conversion, I believe I read about here and elsewhere. Also a DD MagHytech Pan with drain plug (incase my first attempt didnt solve the issue, I could save some fluid)



While waiting for that part to ship, I hooked up to my 7,000lb trailer for a job last week (for the first time with the new truck) and out of the gate nasty shuddering and vibration from a stop thru 2nd and again on decel through 1st and second. More research said (Could be another symptom of the gov solenoid (fluid restriction etc) or the start of torque converter failure.



Today I replaced the solenoid with the PATC conversion and the shift issue is gone 100% shifts great. But I still detect a shudder at 1st gear on launch and decel. Haven't hooked up to a load again yet (will be a few days before i can) but am thinking I need to yank the Torque Converter?



Just looking for some validation that my thinking and research is correct. Or if I am way off base.



Thanks in advance, certainly if I have left out any pertinant information, let me know.



Sincerely,

Cowboy (aka Mike) 06 3500 QuadCab LWB 4x4 Auto. AEM Intake/Bushwaker Flares/TRACRAC/285-70-17Nitto Terra Grapplers/Eagle Alloy Wheels.

 

[rscurtis]

Check your U joints, a tight one will give you low speed shudder.

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

I do have low speed chadder on the front right side axle/hub U-joint, the others all appeared to look pretty good. Though none of them are servicable. Was thinking torque converter becuase it is most noticable under load (trailer). I'll look at the driveline U-joints again and see if I missed something.



In a bit of a quandry, the truck needs ujoints on the front axle (both sides) and ball joints in the next 3,000,-5,000 miles so trying to prioritize repairs on limited funds at the moment. The torque converter (if that is the culprit wins the 911 contest in my book) if its all good its on to front end work (and driveline u-joints) in short order. Thanks.

 

[RDeFayette]

Check the center u-joint in the rear driveshaft.

I've had 3 crd's (QCLB, 4wd, auto's) trucks and the center u-joint went out of all three at 120-130k miles. Same symptoms/shudder as you described.

Kinda hard to tell when giving a visual but look for rust coming out around the cups.

 

[JFought]

yes drop the rear ddirve shaft at the axle and the carrier bearing the rotate and twist it to properly check the u joints.

if the joints are shot, then price the mod "one piece drive shaft"
(aka a new aluminum drive shaft from mo-par with bigger ujoints, bought at "dog house diesel", to eliminate the shutter)

my joints were shot, and the carrier, and i always had the shutter. this is a great fix! only a few hundred more than a full rebuild and balance of the two piece drive shaft.

 

[ttm]

My first post here, i am fairly new member. Thanks in advance for your insights.



Bought a new to me 06 3500 Quad Cab Auto trans with 105,000 miles in Mid July. This is also my first diesel. I have read half a dozen issues of TDR mag, the buyers guide and have tried to educate myself the best I can before posting.



Here is the issue. I noticed the trans seemed to be hanging in first and second gear on occasion. Would hang in first to redline(3250-3600), again to redline in second (all under moderate acceleration). Researched the issue and sourced it to the Governor Pressure Solenoid. Ordered the PATC Gov. Solenoid Conversion, I believe I read about here and elsewhere. Also a DD MagHytech Pan with drain plug (incase my first attempt didnt solve the issue, I could save some fluid)

.

can I ask what the patc conversion is for our auto? all I can find is for the 727TF, my '06 has the 48re



thanks

 

[cerberusiam]

In a bit of a quandry, the truck needs ujoints on the front axle (both sides) and ball joints in the next 3,000,-5,000 miles so trying to prioritize repairs on limited funds at the moment. The torque converter (if that is the culprit wins the 911 contest in my book) if its all good its on to front end work (and driveline u-joints) in short order. Thanks.

The TC is not locked up in 1st and 2nd gear so any shudder would be noticeable almost constantly, even at an idle in neutral. The launch shudder is usually a tight u-joint in the rear driveline causing a bind and release. They are hard to deletect with disassembly so the easiest route is just replace all 3 with greaseables or a one piece drive line.



Fix the front end and rear driveline first as those are the biggest problem creators when they get worn.

 

[p-Bar]

Can you do a 1 piece on a quad 2wd truck? seems like it would be quite long

 

[BIGNASTY]

Can you do a 1 piece on a quad 2wd truck? seems like it would be quite long

Ya, Inland Driveling in Ontario Ca its by the West TA truck stop just past the motel on Guasti ave. It was about $600. 00 when I checked into it about 2 yrs ago. I can replace allot of u joints for that much coin.

 

[puller]

There is a shim kit from Dodge and a Tech bulletin pertaining to the shudder.
I don't remember what the number is.

Puller

 

[Prairie Dog]

Go 1 pc and never look back. It's one of the best mods I ever made to my truck.

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

STOP READ POST #16 BEFORE PURCHASING THE REC CONVERSION.
It is listed on their page as the "REC" their page is really long, it is about 3/4 ways down the page and it is listed as for all RE transmissions, which includes the 48RE. When I called them, they were quite helpful part shipped quick.

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

I believe the shudder is there all the time, but its hard to tell over the cummins. It is most pronounced at launch and decel, and when towing. It is really bad when towing under moderate acceleration, until cruising speed. U-joints are a lot cheaper than a new TC, and at 107k its not a bad idea anyway. Will report back. Thanks again to everyone for the input.

 

[ttm]

It is listed on their page as the "REC" their page is really long, it is about 3/4 ways down the page and it is listed as for all RE transmissions, which includes the 48RE. When I called them, they were quite helpful part shipped quick.

Thanks, now I found it!

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

STOP READ POST #16 Before PURCHASING THE CONVERSION.
Be sure to also order a new Governor Pressure sensor/transducer with the Gov Press solenoid conversion. It does not tell you that on the website. I only learned of it when installing the new solenoid as the instructions recommend a new sensor/transducer at the same time and it appears to be slightly different that the stock one as well. I am calling PATC to get one and to recommend that they put it with the solenoid conversion or at least tell you u need that too.

I am have some issues still, the u-joints took care of the vibration, the solenoid seems to have taken care of the shift hunt issue, but now I am detecting slippage at low throttle from a stop (10-15mph) steady throttle and it slips in and out of power. Living in a city with a lot of traffic I don't want to break something with the slippage so, am curious if its the fact that I didn't replace the sensor/transducer or if there is some third issue going on in the drivetrain.

Starting to wonder if the previous owner did any maintenance on the Truck, 106k miles and I am in for two front axle u joints - all new ball joints, new drive shaft u-joints (all three) a trans solenoid, broken Tach, new Tires, new intake (previous owner installed the wrong model aftermarket AEM Intake and its causing air flow issues) All in my first 30 days with my new diesel. Not complaining here, i expected to do some work on it. Had just hoped it would be more performance stuff and less maintenance. lol.

Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions, you have been right on the money so far!

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

Okay REGARDING THE REC CONVERSION for the Governor PRessure Solenoid. Turns out is is only for higher performance trucks (contrary to what I was previously told and the wording on their website that it improves reliability for stock)

PATC now says that you should not install this unless you have a "High Performance" application. When pressed for a definition it was suggested than a minimum of a 60HP and 80-100 lb ft torque increase.

Running this conversion on a stock truck (like I am now) leads to too weak of a pressure signal to allow proper functionality. I am getting slippage at low speed (10-15) mph and a choked back feeling at highway speeds. He said that is to be expected with the solenoid on a stock truck.

So either I need to remove the new $150 solenoid or add 60+HP. Got some thinking to do here. Got to love the "you should have talked to me first from the PATC guy". Because "I would have never sold you that conversion kit" That hindsight gotta love it.

 

[cerberusiam]

Okay REGARDING THE REC CONVERSION for the Governor PRessure Solenoid. Turns out is is only for higher performance trucks (contrary to what I was previously told and the wording on their website that it improves reliability for stock)

Not exactly true but there are some side effects with the stock programs that show up. Part of the problem you are seeing is the lack of TV pressure at light throttle. Up that and it can help with the feel.



Since the 06's have a TTVA motor you have to play with them a little bit. You can advance the TTVA motor gear that drives the TV pressure 1 tooth and see if that will help. That will raise the pressure faster under light throttle and maybe help with th efeel.



A shift kit would be a good addition now also. That will also boost those pressures enough to change the feel of the shifting.

 

[ttm]

Starting to wonder if the previous owner did any maintenance on the Truck, 106k miles and I am in for two front axle u joints - all new ball joints, new drive shaft u-joints (all three) a trans solenoid, broken Tach, new Tires, new intake (previous owner installed the wrong model aftermarket AEM Intake and its causing air flow issues) All in my first 30 days with my new diesel. Not complaining here, i expected to do some work on it. Had just hoped it would be more performance stuff and less maintenance. lol.



Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions, you have been right on the money so far!

pretty typical stuff for a 100+mile vehicle, I knew before I bought my truck, that I would be putting in all ball joints and drive U-joint, in fact that is one thing I always tell them when I'm looking for a vehicle with mileage on it, ya always get how perfect the truck is, our shop did a 700 point inspection, then I tell them everything it will need unless they can show that has all been replaced already and I would be glad to look at eh ball joints, brakes u joints with their mechanic, usually shut the salesman up right there

 

[cowboysgottacummins]

I assumed I would be into front end issues given the mileage. But hoped to get a little more than 1400 miles into the truck before it became clear that that needed to be addressed more promptly than previously figured. But when they are done they are done, lol. Also having switched from a 5. 9l gas 1500 to the diesel one ton, I think I substantially underestimated the cost of such repairs.

Do you do your own or take it to a shop? Curious about what I should expect to pay in labor for this work (Axle U-joints and Ball Joints) Been researching the various options on ball joints, Carli, Dynatrac, OEM's and Moog. Given what I have heard about the labor involved in the deal wondering if it is worth investing in Carli or Dynatrac.

 

[cerberusiam]

I do all my own work so not sure what a reasonable cost is. It can get expensive if they see you coming so shop around a little.



The ujoints are around $40 per. A set of Raybestos professional grade which is the McQuay Norris Extreme duty greasables are around $350 from Rockauto.



If you have a prts store like OReillys that rents tools you can get a ball joint press form them, or, a decent one is $150 from Summit Racing.