Trans leak normal?

[Ncostello]

The only place my transmission leaks is from the front band adjusting bolt/jam nut. It seeps there. How am I supposed to seal this? Its the one right next to the shift linkage shaft. Maybe I have the trans slightly too full? I should check the level sure... but will slight overfill cause this? I know I'm right at or slightly below the full hot mark.

 

[Bluebird]

Over filled auto trans...

I had my overfilled by mistake for 18-months slight weep at one of the sensors, however no leaks.



Patrick.

 

[JJPage]

The only place my transmission leaks is from the front band adjusting bolt/jam nut. It seeps there. How am I supposed to seal this? Its the one right next to the shift linkage shaft. Maybe I have the trans slightly too full? I should check the level sure... but will slight overfill cause this? I know I'm right at or slightly below the full hot mark.

Mine was doing the same thing, it actually was leaking bad enough to saturate the gear selector sensor with transmission fluid, causing irratic shifting. I spoke with Bill at DTT, he advised using thread sealant on the stud and a thin copper washer under the nut, worked great, no more leak.



You will have to retorque the stud to specifications and then back off the required turns. My trans was 72 inch pounds, and back off 2 turns, stock trans is 1 3/4 turns.

 

[Ncostello]

Hot... I was about 1/8" over the full hot mark. So I took a quart out from the pan drain. Now I'm right on the low mark of the "full hot" hashed area of the dipstick. And when I say hot... I mean engine temps. I don't actually have the transmission worked to get the fluid real hot. I didn't notice any leaking after wiping off the jam nut. But I'll have to look again today.



I do like the thin copper washer and sealant idea. Other than this... my trans is super clean on the outside and dry everywhere. I just don't like this drip as it runs down the case, onto the pan gasket lip... then all the way around the pan. It takes a while for the leak to actually hit the ground. It was kinda hard to find at first.

 

[B.G. Smith]

The fluid level is not up to the adjustment nut when running, it can get up there when idle if the torque converter leaks down. If you have to remove the nut to install a washer I would go with a new nut instead, the nut has a plastic face on it that is supposed to be the seal, You might stop the leak by just tightening the nut. Either way you have to either not let the adjusting stud turn or re-adjust, most certainly don't let the stub back out as you remove the nut as the piece inside transmission that contacts the band can fall off. bg

 

[Ncostello]

Thanks. I recently adjusted the torque on my bands when I had the valve body out. I also installed Sonnex manual valve, lube regulated pressure regulator valve, HD intermediate band strut and HD band anchors. I'll check into getting a new nut. I never had mine off to check the face seal if there is one on it.



I do know that lowering the fluid level just slightly stopped the leak. I just need to be 100% certain a hot fluid level check is in the OK range on the stick.