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Trans replacement this weekend

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This weekend I'll work on replacing the 727 in my '90 D250. I've only replaced trans on my MB diesel before and don't have that much experience with American cars. Any pointers ya'll can give me, things to watch out for, or tricks to speed things up?



I've never even disconnected the drive shaft on an American vehicle before ;) I'm used to German over engineering.



If there are any critical torque specs please post 'em if you known 'em since I don't have the shop manual yet.



I figure I will need to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate by turning over the engine. Should I be using the ring gear and a pry bar or some of the bolts on the front crank? The barring tool is just about useless on vehicles with auto transmission - the heat exchanger seems to be in the way?



Once the TC bolts are free, the cooler lines, linkage, wires, etc and driveshaft are free, I can unbolt the bell housing bolts/starter and then (transmission jack supporting trans) slide the unit back and out from the engine?



What is the torque on the flex plate, torque converter, and any torque for the seal cover?



Thanks a million,

Brian
 
Seal housing = 9 Nm or 7 lbs. ft.

Torque converter bolts = 47 Nm or 35 lbs. ft.

Drive plate (flex plate) = 75 Nm or 55 lbs. ft.



Turn the engine over using the nut on the alternator, will need to rotate the engine in reverse using this method.



When you unhook the cooler lines be very careful and use a back-up wrench on the fittings the lines attach to. If you don't hold the fittings on the transmission, usually the lines will twist off and break. The other pitfall is the tubing nuts them selves, they will round off if you don't use tubing wrenches, or you can use this type vise-grip pliers.



http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer...ATT1000110&currentType=BM1000005&search=false
 
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Don't know on the early trucks but on the later ones you take the flexplate to Torque converter bolts out through a hole on the front side of the adapter plate, it is near the hole for the barring tool. This was the only surprise to me, any other vehicle you undo those bolts from underneath through the inspection plate.



Good Luck,

Caleb
 
Paychk,



Thanks for the tips about the cooling lines. I take note of the "backup wrench". Have had to do that before on oil cooler & A/C manifold lines. I think I have a pair of vice grips like those pictured, never used. Otherwise I have a set of Snap On wrenches up to 1" and bigger than that some Craftsman.





Regards,
 
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