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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Trans Temp install

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The best place is in the hot line leaving the transmission. You can use the factory line with a temperature port in it P/N CH05011244AA Tube, Out, W/temp port. These are fairly expensive but work well (around $91). There are kits that you cut and install a port in your hot line that are supposed to be pretty good also. Measuring at this line gives fast response. In the pan it takes a while to notice you may have a heat problem and by then you may have ruined something.
 
Yes, it can be ordered from a Dodge dealer. It is easy to replace. It comes out on the drivers side of the transmission and goes up to the little heat exchanger on the right side of the engine. Easy to see under the truck. You will lose a little fluid but not much. Port takes 1/4 pipe thread, if you have the 1/8 sensor you can get a reducer at any hardware store. The port has 1/4 NP plug in it when you get the line that must be removed to add the sensor.
 
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If I Were You I Would Put It In The Pan, That Is Were The Oil Goes In To The Filter And Aftermarket Pans Have A Port For The Sender, If You Check It At The Cooler Line Only Part Of The Oil Flows Thew And Gives A False Reading
 
The pan is the last choice

If the temp sensor is put in the hot line as it leaves the trans on the way to the coolers it will read the heat in the ATF after it has circulated through the trans and been used by the trans. This will be the hottest place to read the temp of the ATF and the most reactive.



If you are driving in start and stop traffic or are backing a trailer around, you can almost watch the temperature of the ATF in the cooler line rise from the shear of the oil by the torque converter. The cooler line is the best location to read what is going on in the trans, virtually instant readings.



If the Temp probe is put in the pan, the you are getting the temp of the ATF after it has gone through the coolers and mixed with the rest of the ATF in the pan. This is sort of an 'average' temperature. It takes a lot of heating during in-town driving to raise the pan temp a little bit. In the meantime the temp in the line is up near the danger mark.



If at all possible put the temp sensor in the cooler line



Hope this helps, Greg L
 
Yes you have to cut the steel hot line and use a compression fitting to install the manifold block. I haven't dynoed my truck, but with my combo I'm probably at about 390 HP. I need a governor spring kit bad. With my rear end gears the truck starts defueling at about 87 mph, which isn't necessarily a bad thing on the street. I am very pleased with my DTT T/C & V/B. I definitely need a bigger turbo. Right now I can pin my pyrometer pretty easily. Love my truck. -Glen
 
Justin. Spent about $10. 00 at Home Depot--1/2" brass compression fittings 2 Ea. Brass tee fitting 1Ea. And 1Ea 1/8" npt reducer for temp probe. Cut out appx 2" of cooler line ( the forward "hot" line), cleaned everything up and assembled with teflon paste on pipe threads etc. Flawless installation and no leaks.



Hope this helps

Kirk
 
So which line is it? I got under it today and the one I thought it was (the one that starts on the drivers side then goes under the trans and up to the top of the motor and has the 4-6 inch piece of rubber tube going into the cooler) was cold and the one that runs next to it going under the trans was the hot one??
 
On the passenger side, the transmission cooler lines are stacked next the the bellhousing. It is the top line that is the hot line. -Glen
 
So is it the one closer to the pan? The one under it that keeps going up is the one that is hot. Sorry for all the questions but I am lost. :p
 
The two lines in your picture, the one that gives the impression it is on top. If you follow it further to the right, it has a rubber hose going up to the heat exchanger.
 
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