Transfer case buzz/49 state what?

[gwalloch]

I've got that annoying transfer case buzz from my 4x4 shift lever. I think that the proper fix for it was a Mitsubishi or similar exhaust or muffler spring. Does anyone remember what the part number?



I've got a 96 2500 4x4 that has that California EGR crossover tube. It's now got a hole in it, spewing black dust all over the top of the engine. I've got a temporary patch on it to stem the flow. Everybody says, "Put a 49 state on it. " What's a "49 state?"



Also, thanks to Joe Donnelly for the straight scoop on doing the rear axle seals. It took about 45 minutes per side this past weekend. Now that I have some idea what I'm doing, I think I could do it in about 1/2 that time.

 

[CWeidenkeller]

"49 state" is the 49 state connector tube, or intake pipe. Non EGR, came on trucks sold in any state except the land of fruits and nuts. Latest part # I have is 3931516, should run between $60-70. You'll have to fab up a block off plate for the ex manifold where the cross over tube bolted up. Also, removing the EGR (or as I call it, the soot injection system) might cause your check engine light to come on. It didn't on mine, but search past posts to find out how to fix that... ... .

 

[Andy Redmond]

See below from the Fritz site:



Ram Transfer Case Shifter Noise Cures

See also TSB 21-13-96, TSB 21-12-97, TSB 21-13-97



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Subject: [RAM] Transfer Case Shifter rattle



Date: Thu, 6 Nov 1997 20:28:38 -0500 (EST)

From: -- email address removed --

To: RTML



To eliminate that annoying Transfer Case Shifter rattle - you need one spring PN 4301631, designed for Mitsubishi 3L engine exhaust flange Insert spring between the shifter and the mounting bracket at the bottom, so that the tensioner spring already on the shifter unit captures the new spring, that is, keeps it in place with the stub ends of the tensioner that stick through the shifter and bracket.



Fix is courtesy of Craig Graunke, Chapman's Las Vegas Dodge, master diesel technician.









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Subject: [RAM] T-Case Shifter Noise Cure Found

Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 22:52:47 EST

From: HUES11 <HUES11@aol.com>

To: ramtruck

A couple weeks ago I addressed the list about a noise in the transfer case shifter in my 95 SLT CC. The noise was different than the common reports at the time as well as the description in the TSBs. The noise seemed to be the transmission of gear mesh noise up through the shifter gate and shift lever itself. It has been there to some degree since day one.



Well, after trying to pad the area of the gate that the lever rests on when in 2wd or 4wd high with little success I moved closer to the source. The ultimate fix that works is to isolate the sifter mechanism bracket from the transmission with rubber

washers. I went to the local True-Value store and purchased some flat rubber washers (eight to be exact) that would fit on the shifter bracket mounting bolts. I used four washers on each of the two mounting bolts, two between the bracket and the transmission housing and two between the bolt head and the bracket.



I also put a little Loc-Tite blue on the threads to keep them in place since I couldn't really tighten them down. These washers are found in one of the little drawers where you find all sorts of odd and ends from glass mirror mounting brackets to o-rings, and of course, rubber washers. Lowes also has an assortment of little items like this. If anyone has a hissing sound from the

floor of your 4wd Ram, this is the ultimate fix. My truck is nice and quiet now.



E-Mail any questions to -- email address removed --, I'd be glad to answer.







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HOME

 

[Driftwood Ram]

spring PN 4301631

I have lived with this buzz for too long so called my local Mitsubishi Stealer today with this part number. There must be more to it because she was lost. Wanted to know what car the engine was in. Then I was lost because all I wanted was a spring and not the whole engine. Can anyone help with this???

Thanks in advance;

TracyOo. Oo. Oo.

 

[illflem]

Tracy, Try an auto parts rather than a dealer, it's a common item used on most all newer Mitsubishi engines. Keeps the bolt between the header and exhaust pipe tight. You could also go back to the dealer open the hood of one of their cars and point at it. Dealer parts people can be pretty clueless at times.

 

[Driftwood Ram]

Thanks Bill. I'll try a couple of local parts houses tomorrow. Oo. Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[Andy Redmond]

Tracy:



Call a DC dealer, not Mitisibishi(sp). .



It's application is a four cylinder gas engine's exhaust manifold to downpipe flange connector. And or under car exhaust connections.



Read Dodge Colt and others in the late 80's and mid-90's. My mopar guy had no trouble with the number, I think it is a MOPAR, number, rather than a mitisibishi part no.



Good luck, Andy

 

[Driftwood Ram]

spring PN 4301631

Bill:

I tried a parts house today with no luck only I told them it was a Mitsubishi part number.

Andy:

I will try the local Dodge Boy tomorrow. Thanks for the hint.



Tracy

Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[Dreher]

Have you guys tried bending the bracket that the shifter spring hooks on to create more tension? That cut my buzz in half. I then took the shifter boot off and saw that the plastic gate that the shifter rides in had dislodged from it's metal bracket and the shifter was making contact with the bracket. After I resecured the gate, all the buzzing was gone.



Bob

 

[Driftwood Ram]

BUZZZZZ

Originally posted by Dreher

Have you guys tried bending the bracket that the shifter spring hooks on to create more tension? That cut my buzz in half. I then took the shifter boot off and saw that the plastic gate that the shifter rides in had dislodged from it's metal bracket and the shifter was making contact with the bracket. After I resecured the gate, all the buzzing was gone.



Bob

Yes to bending the bracket. I have already tried that. I looked at the plastic gate again tonight. It is in it's proper place.

Andy;

You were right on the D/C part number. Called today and they have 8 in stock. Will get one tomorrow on the way home. The next question is how you hook it on the enisting spring??Oo. Oo. Oo.

 

[illflem]

The exsisting spring passes though the center of your new one.

 

[Driftwood Ram]

Originally posted by illflem

The exsisting spring passes though the center of your new one.

I don't get it.

The new spring looks like a valve spring. Are you saying unhook one end of the existing spring and put it through the new one?? One picture sure would be worth 1,001 words.

 

[gwalloch]

Thanks everybody. NAPA, Carquest, Mitsubishi and MOPAR had no idea about what spring (#4301631) I was talking about. However, the Jeep dealer did. $6. 68 later, I am the proud owner of a tapered spring. Here's the problem.



I can't get enough squeeze out of it to get it into the space between the lever and the case. Do I have to disassemble the entire bracket and then put the whole mess back on as one unit? Or, am I doing it wrong, and I should be doing the "The existing spring goes through it" version?

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by gwalloch

should I be doing the "The existing spring goes through it" version?

That's what worked for me

 

[Driftwood Ram]

gwalloch:



You got off cheap. My local Dodge Boys hit me for $10. 36 + tax. When you get it figured out post the results. I still do not understand the "existing spring goes through it " theory.

 

[illflem]

Tracy, hopefully your new exhaust spring will fit inside the old one, mine did. Since I don't have a camera picture the new spring as a piece of pipe, the old as your finger, stick your finger in the pipe!

 

[gwalloch]

Illflem:



Help us out here 'ole buddy. I spent the better part of three hours under my 2500 this weekend, trying to figure out how I can put the existing spring through the #4301631 spring.



The size differential (very little) between the two makes it impossible (that I can tell) to do so.



I also tried the "squeeze it between the bracket" method that would capture the #4301631 on the stub ends of the existing spring. Man, I couldn't get even close to getting it tight enough to fit in between.



Is there a secret disassembly/assembly procedure? Any walk-through instructions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[illflem]

Sounds as though you have a different sized spring than I used. I battled with it for awhile until I figured out to compress the spring with some needle nose vice grips, in my case both springs. I inserted the pliers' tips in-between the first and second coils on both ends of the spring.

 

[gwalloch]

Thanks Illflem,



I agree that I've some other type of spring. I'm going to try the visegrip method this weekend and see if I can get it in there.



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'96 2500 4x4 Ext. cab longbed, 85K. Just starting to learn about the possibilities for power.