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Archived transfer case question

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Archived Broken U-Joint

Archived Truck with a transfer case problem?

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im changing the fluid in my transfer case, and also plan on replacing the rear yoke seal. two questions:



1. i removed what i thought was the drain plug, a large hex plug on the bottom of the case, but it wasnt the drain plug. when i removed it, a spring and bullet shaped piece came out. im not sure how it all goes back in... .

plug on bottom-spring in middle-bullet on top OR plug on bottom-then bullet-then spring. which way does the pointy end of the bullet go? towards the case, or towards the plug?



2. how do i remove the shaft/yoke from the rear of the transfer case? ive never worked on a truck that has a two piece rear shaft, with that support brace or whatever it is connecting the two.



any help is appreciated.
 
By bottom, I assume you mean facing down, as opposed to the lowest.

The drain plug is the lowest of the three plugs on the rear side. Fill plug is just below the ID tag, drain plug below and to the left on the rear face.



I'm looking at the 243 in the '03 manual, so your mileage may vary. If what you pulled was on the bottom, below the front output shaft(could also be the input -- not clear from the drawings), what you have is the detent plug, spring and plunger for the shifter. Neither picture in the manual (removal or installation) shows clearly which end of the plunger is tapered, and there's no mention of its orientation.



If we're talking about the same part, the order is plunger goes in first, then the spring, then the plug/bolt. Can you tell from any wear on the plunger which way it may go? My suspicion, given the function, is that the flat end will face the spring, and the rounded ens to the inside, to engage notches machined in the shift fork rail. This would be reinforced if you find end to end wear toward the flat end, and lateral wear on the nose of the "bullet. "



I hope this makes sense.
 
i think you're right, the bullet end goes up into the transfer case, the spring fits in the other end of it, and the other end of the spring goes into the lug, then gets screwed in. it all fell apart when it came out, and i kind of laughed to myself as i looked at the case and saw clearly where the real dran/fill plugs were. i am my own worst enemy!
 
Of course, I've never done such a thing, myself. :rolleyes: And what's a few spare parts amongst friends? ;)



I missed the second part of your question, and went back to the book. The drawings for the 271 confirm the "bullet" goes in first, nose end to the inside, then the spring, finish up with the threaded plug. Replace the O-ring if it looks necessary.



If you're just doing the seal on the rear shaft, you don't need to remove the shaft. On the 271, they show using a chisel to remove the dust boot at the outer end of the extension housing, so find a seam and go for it. I don't see any mention of another seal on the rear. Removing the shaft means going through the oil pump and other stuff that's way more that we can get into here.
 
not quite sure i understand the seal part. im talking about the seal that seals where the rear yoke comes out for the rear driveshaft. i would think i would have to pull the yoke out to replace the seal?
 
I was talking about the seal on the rear output shaft of the transfer case (not the drive shaft that DC seems to call a propellor shaft). Are you talking the seal at the xfer case or the rear end?



It shouldn't be any more than marking one spot for orientation and loosening up the bolts. You'll likely have to drop that center bearing, too. I also seem to recall seeing something a long while back about SOME but NOT all shafts have mating teeth at the front yoke that are meant to hold it up in place should it fail, keeping you from spiking the front end of the shaft into the surface. Do you see anything like that?
 
i got it, i unbolted the straps off the rear end, then unbolted the center bearing, and pulled the whole deal out. now, i can replace the seal, as soon as i go back to the parts store and return the one they gave me and get the right one! thanks for the help today!
 
not a problem!



i hate when i buy parts a couple days in advance, then when i do the job, have stuff tore apart, find out the parts store gave me the wrong stuff. seems like everytime i work on anything anymore. trip after trip to the parts store, fumbling with their semi intelligence, and then having to order stuff that you would think is a common, normally stocked thing makes you want to not work on anything ever! ugh.



i mean, it is so hard for whatever reason to get the right parts for the axles and other drivetrain parts for this truck. im guessing it's the difference between a gasoline 2500 and a diesel 2500. some parts stores ask for the wieght of the truck, some dont. i try to give them all the info, but it always gets lost in the haze. while they were looking for the rear output shaft seal for my transfer case, one of the idiots asked me if it was 2wd or 4wd... ... yeah, no chance in getting the right parts from them.



rant over!
 
Me: " I need a bulb for the glove box light. '04 Stratus, 2. 7l, auto, Molten Red. "



Counter Guy (after search through 8 screens of his database): "Coupe or sedan?"



Aaaarrrggghhhhh!!!!
 
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