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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Transfer case trying to shift into 4wd while in 4th gear

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission death wobble

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 3 of 4 speeds out on blower motor

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Does it both empty or towing. It has tryed about 6 times.



I will be going down a hill in 4th gear not touching the gas just letting the engine slow me down a little bit. All of a sudden it seems it will try to get into 4wd. It makes a pretty loud grinding noise. Push in the clutch and all is well.



I was told it could be the vacumm lines..... whats the best way to fix those?



Any other ideas
 
If you have the NP241DLD transfer case, check the snap ring on the output shaft. If it breaks, the main shaft will move in and out allowing the 4wd to engage. Fix it quickly or it will cost $310 later. I know...
 
Not sure which transer case I have.



It has know started in fifth as well. Although it seems to want to go in neutral and not 4wd.



HELP I keep having to put it in neutral when I am not on the gas so it does not grind
 
You most likely have the 241DLD and the snap ring has probably broken. I would check the output shaft soon before it gets worse.
 
The DLD case has a PTO output plate on one end of it. Roughly a 3"X5" plate with 6 bolts holding it on. Manual trannies have the same plate on them if that helps you to know what to look for.
 
Rattlin_Ram said:
We checked it today, snap ring seems to still be there. Read a post somewhere about it being worn thin enough to cause play. Could this be it? Also wondering if he should do the Tcase saver kit or not? http://www.drivetrain.com/gillies/Tcasesaver.html

The T-case saver is a very worth while, inexpensive piece of insurance that will definately "save" your t-case. :D I have friends that have used the saver and have not had any problems for thousands of miles.
 
Well I just got off the phone with Gillies and they do not have a kit for my transfer case. He said if the snap ring is still there then it is more than likely good as their really isn't anything to wear on the ring.



He told me to check the shift fork pads and hubs. When the gas is released everything wants to move forward and it will try to engage sometimes.



Sounds as if the T case will have to be removed to look at this... . ?
 
You don't have to completely remove the case. Remove rear drive-shaft, 4 bolts holding output of transfer case, speedometer drive, and the 12 or so bolts that hold the two halves of the case together. I can do it in 20 minutes. You'll also need a good set of snap-ring pliers.
 
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